Kreg Deck Jig: User comments requested

[Harry Hagan]

Kreg tells me their new deck jig has been on the market “about a month”. Does anyone have experience with this jig installing deck boards—especially ACQ treated yellow pine?

After watching Kreg’s video, I’ve concluded that although the screw heads are still visible on the board’s edge; that’s better than on the board’s face/top. It also seems easier than using a “clip-based” system but since two screws are required instead of one clip and one screw; material costs are similar but labor should be less.

Kreg’s promotional materials recommend composite and hardwood deck boards but don't recommend ACQ treated.

[Gene Howe]

Harry,
I sincerely wish I could help with your query however, it comes too soon. Wait about 3 months and I can help
I intend to buy it and use it on our 16X30 deck. first, we have to remove the 10 year old fir decking.

[Harry Hagan]

Gene,

If we can settle on a final design, I hope to start my project within the next month. Yesterday, the best price I could find on the jig and screws was from hardwaresales.com; so be sure and give them a look if you don’t purchase locally. The jig wasn’t listed on their website according to their CSR because their first allotment sold out within a few days. Jig with 100 screws $89.99, 700 coated screws $47.99 with shipping included.

[Don Alexander]

if the manufacturer isn't confident in their product being used with specified material/s why should you be?

i find it interesting that so many people tend to ignore the recommendations of the product maker , whatever that product may be,
and while sometimes those recommendations are overly cautious there are plenty of times when those recommendations are based on what the product is designed for and/or not designed for.

especially with a brand new product , i believe that if i were contemplating ignoring the recommendations of the manufacturer, that i would run a simple test on a small sample of what i was wanting to do , in this case make a small sample and put it in the direct sun for a few weeks and see what happens , give the treated SYP time to shrink as it always does and see if you are happy with the results . from looking over the new jig and the instructions on how its used my guess would be that the reason they don't recommend using it with SYP decking is that the gap between the deck boards after the SYP shrinks down is going to be rather wide.
also likely that the boards will split out where the screws are in the edges
because of the wood shrinking .

either way please keep in mind that ignoring the recommendations pretty much negates the right to complain about the results

[Harry Hagan]

My earlier post was incorrect. The only product that Kreg “recommends” in their literature is composite decking—which I don’t use due to past problems with the product. They suggest using hardwoods as an alternative.

I talked with a Kreg salesperson yesterday and he said expansion and contraction of ACQ treated make it a less stable product and that Kreg recommends ¼” spacing between ACQ boards for that reason. Kreg deck screws are approved for ACQ treated.

I’m considering using kiln-dried after treatment (KDAT) yellow pine. Today I talked with my lumber yard’s supplier (Hoover) and their product is MCA not ACQ. Hoover’s engineer said shrinkage would be nominal after being kiln-dried and future shrinkage would depend on moisture uptake.

[David Helm]

Do you have small children? Why would you want them crawling on potentially toxic treated wood? Composite decking has come a long way since Trex first introduced it. What were your problems with it?

[Van Huskey]

Composite decking has come a long way since Trex first introduced it. What were your problems with it?

+1. It is funny how Trex made the market and almost ruined it. I have about 800 ft^2 of LP Wetherbest composite that has been down 4 years and I would never use wood again for a deck. It isn't a perfect material but has far fewer cons than wood.

[Thom Porterfield]

I tore out all my wood decks, replaced them with thin-profile concrete pavers on PT plywood. The decks were clear western red cedar 2x6. Now I love the look and feel of wood decks--the few months immediately after installation. I live in a dry climate (central Oregon) and I really didn't have any problems with rot. But damn it, the stuff wore out! In five years, it was getting all splintery (the cats loved it to sharpen their claws!). It was also difficult to clean up the various by-products of life (use your imagination--it happened).

I think, though, that were I to put in a wood-look deck again, I would use one of the composites available. The parks department here uses the stuff for their benches, and I really do like how the stuff weathers. Relatively impervious to vandalism, too.

[Chris Friesen]

I’m considering using kiln-dried after treatment (KDAT) yellow pine. Today I talked with my lumber yard’s supplier (Hoover) and their product is MCA not ACQ. Hoover’s engineer said shrinkage would be nominal after being kiln-dried and future shrinkage would depend on moisture uptake.

It all depends on what they dry to. If it's only 17-19% (which is standard for construction lumber) then it could still shrink a fair bit down to equilibrium with ambient depending on your location.

[Greg Portland]

IMO you are creating a lot of needless work for yourself. You can get ACQ, composite decking, and even Ipe pre-notched for clip-style installations. I used pre-notched Ipe with EB-TY fasteners and have had zero problems (deck is 8 years old). Get un-notched boards for the outside edge if it's visible (biscuit cutter can cut the one side of that board).

I can only imagine the amount of work drilling and screwing every deck/joist connection ON BOTH SIDES! After that, you've still got screw heads near the surface. Seriously, look at the EB-TY or similar systems if you want a deck without exposed fasteners. No pre-drilling and it's rock solid. Cost will be similar depending on the number of fasteners you have to use.

[Jim Breen (NY)]

I put a Trex deck down with them last month and it is double the work. And that doesn't include the pre-drilling for the screws.
Though the screws are barely noticeable, you have to knock off the drilling "curls" while installing or it's an afternoon affair to clean those up.
Using an impact driver for screwing made it easier then a second drill/driver.

[Gene Howe]

I put a Trex deck down with them last month and it is double the work. And that doesn't include the pre-drilling for the screws.
Though the screws are barely noticeable, you have to knock off the drilling "curls" while installing or it's an afternoon affair to clean those up.
Using an impact driver for screwing made it easier then a second drill/driver.

Jim, To which were you referring. Kreg or other?
I'm considering composite and Kreg, so I'm interested.

[Harry Hagan]

Same question here: What fastening methods have you used that make the Kreg system double the work? Also, if you could start over; would you use Kreg again?

Thanks for your input.

Harry

[Jim Breen (NY)]

I used the Kreg jig with composite decking. The double work is due to drilling pilot holes on *both sides* of each board, then screwing on both sides. First you install the board, then when you think you're done, you have to do the opposite side. I've seen the eb-ty in action and think cutting the biscuit slot is easier as one person can do slots (with a story stick) while another installs the decking.

That said, I cannot argue with the results. Yes, I can see the screws, but with the eb-ty I can see the screw and biscuit too. I would use the Kreg again, just with more ibuprofen for knees.

When I priced out the materials, I paid $148 for the Kreg and 700 screws to install 200 sq ft decking with a picture framed border. With Trex clips I was looking at north of $300 and about slightly less for eb-ty. I think the Trex clips and eb-ty used ss screws and the Kreg was coated, but that price difference can buy enough QSWO for a chair.