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Thread: stabilized box elder duck call

  1. #1

    stabilized box elder duck call

    Here's yet another duck call I've made. This one is black and yellow stabilized box elder burl, and it seems to have quite a bit of green in it too. The band is gold anodized aluminum and the insert is clear yellow acrylic. This is the first insert I've done with my new tapered reamer that makes the hole through the middle neatly tapered as opposed to a step drill bit, which has been my method until now. Sanding and polishing the inside of a 5/16" hole 3" deep presents a very interesting set of challenges, but I managed to get it free of sanding marks and polished up nicely.

    I just can't get enough of turning stabilized wood! Starting to feel it in the wallet though!
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    central illinois
    Posts
    434
    Aaron this is another great piece! Looks fantastic. Does the stabilized wood just turn better or does it make any difference at all in the sound of the call?

    John

  3. #3
    Thanks John. The stabilized wood turns about like acrylic. Gotta take small bites and use scrapers. It sounds a little more mellow than my all-acrylic calls but a little sharper than an all-wood call. The advantage to stabilized wood is that it pretty much turns the wood into plastic and makes it tougher and more resilient to the elements. It also allows you to use woods that otherwise wouldn't be solid or stable enough for such projects. Plus it just looks crazy!

  4. #4
    Wow, that's a beauty! Way too nice slog out in the swamp with!

  5. #5
    Aaron, that certainly made up into a beautiful call! I have yet to try the stabilized wood, but it sure looks good. I did try to turn some acrylic once, and had trouble with chipping - obviously, my method was bad.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Harvey, Michigan
    Posts
    20,804
    WOW - what a beauty! Great job on the clear acrylic! The wood is amazing! Has a finish on it that looks like you can see into it about 3" deep! Great effect!
    Steve

    “You never know what you got til it's gone!”
    Please don’t let that happen!
    Become a financial Contributor today!

  7. Awesome looking call. I bet that would fetch a pretty penny.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by John Keeton View Post
    I did try to turn some acrylic once, and had trouble with chipping - obviously, my method was bad.
    Scrapers are the key John. Gouges will cause some chipping so I never use gouges for my finishing cuts. I grind a negative bevel on the top of my scrapers so the burr isn't as aggressive (like you'd want for wood) and it works slick. I can usually start sanding at 400 grit with that method.

    Thanks for all the compliments guys.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Goodland, Kansas
    Posts
    22,605
    Wow that is a beauty. Way to pretty to take out in the field.
    Bernie

    Never put off until tomorrow what you can do the day after tomorrow.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.



  10. #10
    Thanks Bernie. But, it'll go in the field! I don't build them to sit on shelves, that's for certain. A few nicks and dings are just a badge of honor!

  11. #11
    Aaron, how do you mount the blank in the lathe to turn a duck call?

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Will Scott View Post
    Aaron, how do you mount the blank in the lathe to turn a duck call?
    Will, the drilled barrel is mounted on a blind expanding mandrel held in a collet chuck. Some guys use pin lock mandrels but I've found they're not as precise when you have to remove and reverse a barrel during turning. My expanding mandrel is from Flint Hills Duck Works. I turn the barrel to shape with my cone-shaped live center engaged in the mouth end of the blank and remove the live center and the tailstock when I'm shaping the mouth and hollowing the mouth end.

    The insert (the acrylic part on this one) is more complicated on an arkansas style duck call. There are a lot of ways to skin that cat. I make friction fit inserts that have a slight taper. Some guys use o-rings, some guys use kits for their inserts, some guys don't even make their inserts and just buy them pre-made. Personally I turn mine between centers, sand/polish the shaft of it, then chuck it up in my pin jaws and bore the hole to the correct depth on the lathe, then ream it, then finish and sand/polish the inside and the exhaust end. Then it goes in my toneboard jig so the cork notch and the toneboard shaping is done last. Then I tune it.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Enid, Oklahoma
    Posts
    6,741
    That looks great, Aaron. If you really like the stabilized stuff, you should check into having it stabilized for you rather than buying it retail. I'd imagine it's still expensive, but it's got to be cheaper than buying it already done. I don't have any personal experience, but I do know of several reputable places that provide the service.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    north GA
    Posts
    438
    WOW very nice.....really like this one..

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