#10 Power Cord Options

[Doug W Swanson]

Hey all,

I need to hook up my table saw and rather than hard wire the TS I wanted to install a power cord/receptacle for it. The TS requires a 30a breaker so I need to use 10ga wire.

Here are a couple of options I thought of:

1. A 6' dryer cord (about $10)

2. Run #10's in flexible metal conduit using the correct plug (I have everything but the plug)

3. Buy a 25' section of #10 extension cord and use less than 10ft of it and add the correct plug ($45)

4. Another option that I can't think of

The saw will be positioned in a way where the cord will be out of the way but I don't really want to take a chance on nicking the cord.

What are your thoughts?

TIA,
Doug

[Jim O'Dell]

Option 4: Buy 10 gauge by the foot, add appropriate end and strain relief. That's what I did for mine. But be careful, where the cord into the switch probably won't accept 10 gauge wire without modification. I think the cord from the factory on mine is 14 gauge. Same thing on my BS. I haven't changed it out since the factory cord reaches the receptacle. Jim.

[Howard Acheson]

As Jim says, buy #10 stranded wire by the foot. Any big box will have it. Buy the appropriate 30 amp plug and receptactle.

[Doug W Swanson]

Thanks for the responses.

When I stopped at Menard's last week, they only sold 10/3 stranded in 25ft or 50ft rolls. The 25ft roll was $35 and I was only going to use 8-10ft of it.

I stopped at Home Depot and they were selling 10/3 for $1.65/ft so I bought some.

Maybe I can get my saw running tonight!
Doug

[Doug W Swanson]

Okay a few more questions:

I was planning on using a NEMA 10-30P plug and receptacle (similar to a 3 wire dryer receptacle).

Since I am running 10/3 wire (2 hots and a ground) can I use the third prong for the ground? On the both the receptacle and plug, it say's WHITE on the third prong.

Is there a reason not to use it for grounding? It would have continuity all the way to the panel.

Or should I find a different receptacle/plug combination?

Thanks!
Doug

[Chris Friesen]

I was planning on using a NEMA 10-30P plug and receptacle (similar to a 3 wire dryer receptacle).

Or should I find a different receptacle/plug combination?

Technically you should use 6-30 or L6-30. Assuming this is on a wall I'd go with 6-30 with a right-angle plug so the heavy cord falls straight down.

10-30 is for two hots and a neutral with no ground where you need both 120V and 240V . It would work, but it would be unexpected and thus not ideal.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, a 10-30P is not the correct device.

Presuming that you have a 240 volt application, 6-30P is the correct device, if 120 volt then you need a 5-30P.

Regards, Rod.

P.S. Sorry for the repeat info from Chris, we must have posted at aproximately the same time.

[John Coloccia]

It's because of the cord you chose. The old Nema-10 series cords were designed to ground through the neutral.....this is back when that was still legal. My suggestion would be to return it and use the newer L6, twistlock connector (hot-hot-ground). It would be L14 if you wanted 4 conductor (hot-hot-neutral-ground).

The 10 series will work but can be extremely confusing, especially if you're going to a sub-panel. Anyone else working in your shop might assume that the 3rd conductor is a proper neutral, and may someday wire something up as such, potentially causing code violations and other problems. Twistlocks look cooler anyway.

[John Coloccia]

P.S. Sorry for the repeat info from Chris, we must have posted at aproximately the same time.

Ditto for me

[Doug W Swanson]

Thanks for the quick replies.

This is all going in my basement shop and I am doing the wiring myself (with a permit). I've done a fair amount of wiring but not much when it comes to 240v stuff.

I will swap out my recept/plug for the correct ones...

Thanks!
Doug

[Doug W Swanson]

It's because of the cord you chose. The old Nema-10 series cords were designed to ground through the neutral.....this is back when that was still legal. My suggestion would be to return it and use the newer L6, twistlock connector (hot-hot-ground). It would be L14 if you wanted 4 conductor (hot-hot-neutral-ground).

The 10 series will work but can be extremely confusing, especially if you're going to a sub-panel. Anyone else working in your shop might assume that the 3rd conductor is a proper neutral, and may someday wire something up as such, potentially causing code violations and other problems. Twistlocks look cooler anyway.

Thanks for the info. I am installing a 240 receptacle for my table saw. Since the previous owner of the TS had the saw hard wired, I want to add a cord to it.

Thanks for the help!
Doug

[Jeff Duncan]

Just curious...what's the amperage stated on the saws motor plate? A 30 amp circuit and 10 gauge wire is pretty beefy for tablesaw.
JeffD

[Doug W Swanson]

The saw is a 5hp Grizzly and needs a 30A breaker.

The bummer is that I had already ran wire for a 240v, 20A breaker assuming I would buy a 3hp TS when I upgraded. I got a good deal on this 5hp one so I have to redo all of the wiring....

Doug

[Bryan Rocker]

I am sure the electricians will correct me if I am wrong here, but if you are wired to a sub panel, the ground and neutral must remain seperate. I had an electrical inspector tell us that if you connect a neutral and ground together in a sub or beyond you create the potential for an alternate route for current to pass......

YMMV

Bryan

[Doug W Swanson]

I am sure the electricians will correct me if I am wrong here, but if you are wired to a sub panel, the ground and neutral must remain seperate.

I'm going back to the main service panel in my house so this shouldn't be a problem....

Doug