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Thread: Air compressor piping

  1. #1

    Air compressor piping

    Does anyone have a good resource for figuring out what size copper pipes to use to plumb in air lines around my shop? I'm looking for pipe size versus airflow at various pressures.

    Thanks,
    Ron

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Hello Ron, and welcome to the Creek. Do stop by often and splash around.

    When I plumbed my shop with compressed air, I used 1/2" L-type copper. Depending on your compressor, you might want to consider putting it in separate room or building a closet for it. My 5hp Ingersoll Rand is one loud machine. It is located in an adjacent garage, and I carry a little over 100 psi on the lines. If you are looking for specs on copper tubing, the people at copper.org has all you need to know, and more. Regarding size, 1/2" is all I have ever needed, even with an impact wrench blasting away.

    Hope this helps.
    Last edited by Ken Garlock; 05-01-2010 at 4:53 PM.
    Best Regards, Ken

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
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    Central Indiana
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    I went with 3/4" copper from the compressor, around the perimeter of the shop and a run down the middle. Then I came down the wall with 1/2" copper to my outlets. I have a 5HP 60 gallon 2 stage Eaton compressor and this setup has never left me needing more air. I can run the sandblast cabinet and the compressor will pump up and shut off. I have used HVLP guns for finishing and painting, die grinders and impact guns and they have never been starved for air.

    I don't know of anything to use for calculation. I just went with the information that I gathered from reading about air plumbing on several forums.

    Good Luck!!
    Tony

    If at first you don't succeed,
    you shouldn't try skydiving.

  4. #4
    +1 for 1/2".... unless you're pressurizing the tanks on the space shuttle. Keep in mind you'll want to pitch the lines towards the outlets so moisture can escape.
    .
    "I love the smell of sawdust in the morning".
    Robert Duval in "Apileachips Now". - almost.


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  5. #5
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    Do as you want but I used 1/2" pvc in my basement shop for 15 years and absolutely no problems. I did the same in my new shop. I haven’t found anything that the 1/2" will not supply and I've used all but a commercial sandblaster. The air compressor is the least common denominator. I have up graded mine to a larger vertical. I did not do this in either installation, but suggest you use rigid piping for the drops so the coupling doesn't wiggle around so much

  6. #6
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    FWIW - extra $$ involved - the lines act as a tank/reservoir, so depending on what you use it for, the bigger the main line dia, the bigger your tank is.

    As an extreme example, in a previous life in manufacturing, we ran 4" main pipes in a 300,000 sf factory that used a lot of air tools (drivers, wrenches, pneumatic clamps, etc). THAT was one heckuva tank. Of course, it was supplied by 5 x 50hp Hydrovane compressors - might be a little more than you will need but you get the point.
    When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.

  7. #7
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    http://www.tptools.com/StaticText/ai...ng-diagram.pdf
    A basic diagram to follow.
    1/2" is fine for a home shop. If you want to use plastic there is ABS rated for airlines. PVC and pex aren't rated for air lines. Pitch your lines back to the tank and install your drops pointing up, then down. It keeps the water from collecting in your drops. A commonly overlooked practice. You cannot imagine how many shops have water issues because they don't understand the fundamentals of air line piping.

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Josh Bowman View Post
    Do as you want but I used 1/2" pvc in my basement shop for 15 years and absolutely no problems.
    Please note that PVC should not be used for compressed air applications...it's not rated for that. And folks with shops that get cold run the risk of sudden shattering at low temperatures which can be deadly.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #9
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    I have read a lot of posts about folks swearing by PVC pipe used for compressed air and have found that a lot of typing is wasted trying to get them to realize that they are playing Russian Roulette. Guess they will only be convinced after the the PVC shatters until they become believers.
    I agree with using a larger pipe if you need more air storage if you can afford the larger size pipe.
    David B

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Lizek View Post
    http://www.tptools.com/StaticText/ai...ng-diagram.pdf
    A basic diagram to follow.
    1/2" is fine for a home shop. If you want to use plastic there is ABS rated for airlines. PVC and pex aren't rated for air lines. Pitch your lines back to the tank and install your drops pointing up, then down. It keeps the water from collecting in your drops. A commonly overlooked practice. You cannot imagine how many shops have water issues because they don't understand the fundamentals of air line piping.

    There is a pex that is rated for airlines. Price wise, it isn't a bargain, and doesn't have the cooling/condensing properties of metal piping though.

    As said, pvc isn't rated for it, and if this is a commercial shop, you face the possibility of OSHA fines.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Lizek View Post
    Pitch your lines back to the tank....

    I used to think this too. It's better to push the water out of the system with the flow to the main's drain drop and the driers at the end of each drop. The main should have a drain drop at its lowest point furthest from the tank and as stated drops should travel up, then down to encourage water to flow to the end of the line, away from the tank as shown on the plans below.

    http://www.sharpe1.com/sharpe/sharpe...+Piping+Layout

    http://www.oldsmobility.com/air-compressor-piping.htm

    "Slope main lines at least four inches (10 cm) per 50 feet (12.7 m) of pipe away from air compressor so that condensate travels with the flow of air and away from the compressor. As warm air leaves the compressor, it cools and thereby condenses as it travels through the pipe. This water vapor, a problem in itself, can also cause scaling and rusting inside the piping. Install drop legs for condensate removal."
    .
    "I love the smell of sawdust in the morning".
    Robert Duval in "Apileachips Now". - almost.


    Laserpro Spirit 60W laser, Corel X3
    Missionfurnishings, Mitchell Andrus Studios, NC

  12. #12
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    Duraplus and Chemaire are ABS plastic rated airlines. What is the pex for airlines? Is it ABS? When I contacted the Pex people they would not back it up for air and it degrades in sunlight.

    We are putting up a new building and I'm checking out the Duraplus for potential airlines. My local plastic supplier carries it and I'm going to compare pricing with black pipe over the next week. It's certainly easier to work with. Whoever did our original piping in the main building certainly broke every air line plumbing rule.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Lizek View Post
    http://www.tptools.com/StaticText/ai...ng-diagram.pdf
    A basic diagram to follow.
    1/2" is fine for a home shop. If you want to use plastic there is ABS rated for airlines. PVC and pex aren't rated for air lines. Pitch your lines back to the tank and install your drops pointing up, then down. It keeps the water from collecting in your drops. A commonly overlooked practice. You cannot imagine how many shops have water issues because they don't understand the fundamentals of air line piping.
    How does the water escape? The lines should be as large as possible, 1" at least if used in a commercial situation and even at home if a lot of air is used. This means the air moves slow enough for the water to drop out of suspension. Small lines mean high air speeds and suspended water vapour. The modern modular "plastic" systems are way better than metal pipe and install in a quarter of the time. They can even be pulled apart and changed if if needed.
    Chris

    Everything I like is either illegal, immoral or fattening

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Parks View Post
    How does the water escape? The lines should be as large as possible, 1" at least if used in a commercial situation and even at home if a lot of air is used. This means the air moves slow enough for the water to drop out of suspension. Small lines mean high air speeds and suspended water vapour. The modern modular "plastic" systems are way better than metal pipe and install in a quarter of the time. They can even be pulled apart and changed if if needed.
    I looked at snap-connector type plastic pipe on a roll but found that in order to keep sags from forming over time and trapping condensation, I'd need to support it at such close intervals.... it was easier to use copper. Also, copper fitting will never be impossible to find in a hurry. My small system in copper with about 80 feet and 5 drops cost just about the same and only took 3 hours.
    .
    Last edited by Mitchell Andrus; 05-03-2010 at 8:21 AM.
    "I love the smell of sawdust in the morning".
    Robert Duval in "Apileachips Now". - almost.


    Laserpro Spirit 60W laser, Corel X3
    Missionfurnishings, Mitchell Andrus Studios, NC

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    Canon City, Colorado
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    I am thinking of using 1/2" DOT Reinforced Airline in combination with PVC pipe to make a run of about 100 feet from the compressor in my shed to the garage. The PVC will be buried and the airline will run through it. Found a good price at
    http://www.trainhornexpress.com/prod...he-hose-03.htm

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