Fence Replacement

[Lee Schierer]

Look for a set of dowel centers they will mark your holes exactly.

[Salem Ganzhorn]

I'll keep the blow-out thing in mind... I've got enough left over to make a ZCI with. I might have to give that a try. did you provide enough clearance for the riving knife?

Yup. First I double-stick taped the original insert to the Corian such that the bottom of the Corian was on the top of the original insert.

Then Ibansaw'd close.

Then I put a couple more wraps of tape around the edge of the original insert because it fits loosely and I wanted a tight fit for the ZCI (I don't really want to have to bolt it down). This is trial and error but I think I had at least 6 wraps around it in the end.

Next I flush-trimmed it at my router table.

I then used a transfer punch to layout the set screws and I scribbled where to drill out the finger holes and access to the riving knife pin. I moved these out a hair to making any part of the corian too thin. But didn't drill/tap the holes yet (still need it attached to the old insert).

Next I took it to my table saw and took the tape off the edge of the original insert and put the still-stuck-together corian and original insert into the saw. I clamped a 2x4 over the sandwich and raised the blade just enough to mark the corian. Note the riving knife MUST be removed for this step!.

Next I took the ZCI off of the old insert and routed relief where it was marked from the table saw blade so I could set it flush in the saw.

Next I drilled and tapped (from the top) the set screws and finger access.

After that I took it back to the TS to cut the through kerf. I adjusted the set screws to level the ZCI, clamped a 2x4 over the insert, turned on the saw and raised the blade (of course with the riving knife OFF).

Now all I needed to do was cut relief for the riving knife. For this I removed the ZCI, installed the riving knife, raised the blade to it's highest point and marked where the backmost point of the riving knife is.

I projected the kerf marks backward and used this as a guide to cut on the scroll saw.

Finally I beveled the front edge of the ZCI. The edges of that corian are really sharp! I got a piece of it in the back of my thumb and was digging it out for a week .

Good luck!
Salem

[Salem Ganzhorn]

I used to use these but I much prefer transfer punches in through holes. It is much easier to make sure they are aligned if you can clamp them together.

Salem

[Rob Hough]

Where did you buy yours? Online or locally? I need to redo my fences also. Am I correct that you can run it through you jointer and planer also if needed? Thanks !!!

I found it locally. Just had to call around. I don't know about planing or jointing. I would assume that if you can run it through a ts with problems, then you should be fine there as well... If you have access to a drum sander that might be the best route to go though. My seems pretty dead on flat.

[Salem Ganzhorn]

Where did you buy yours? Online or locally? I need to redo my fences also. Am I correct that you can run it through you jointer and planer also if needed? Thanks !!!

I would avoid face jointing corian. Edge joint maybe but you should not need it.
Salem

[Bill White]

Where did you buy yours? Online or locally? I need to redo my fences also. Am I correct that you can run it through you jointer and planer also if needed? Thanks !!!

I would not put any Acrylic (Corian, Wilsonart, etc.) through my planer. Edge joint maybe, but a TS should get edges straight enough. A local countertop shop should be able to help with questions, and maybe offer some off-cuts cheap or free.
Remember that you're dealing with a type of plastic (that's an oversimplification), so it has sharp edges and will burn. Be careful.
Bill

[Rob Hough]

New face is up; pretty darned square and very flat. I'm quite happy with it so far. I'll spend some time tuning the fence up completely tomorrow and will get some pictures to boot.

I'm sure my choice in material wasn't pleasing to all... but much like my sex life, it made me happy.... and well... I'm happy.

[Mike Leung]

This is a good idea. I'll be calling around local shops in my area for some scraps to make my fences. The melamine surface on my fence is not perfectly flat. I can't wait to see your pics.

[Jim O'Dell]

Excellent tutorial Salem! Thanks for posting.
When I made the Corian inserts for my Ridgid TS, after cutting close to size, I used the leveling holes as a way to secure the 2 pieces together. I drilled one, tapped it, and put a screw the same threads as my leveling screws in to hold it together, then did the opposite corner. After these 2 were in, I'd drill the other 2 and mark all other holes. Remember, this stuff is 1/2", so no need to face joint it. Also no reason to edge joint it as the router with the flush trim bit makes for a very smooth side. If you have a ridge or rough area, just take a file to it.
I used all the Corian I had making the ZCI for the Ridgid, so I'll have to go out looking for a new supply. Oh, and I use a triple chip grind plastics blade on my TS to cut the Corian. Works great! Nice smooth edges. No tear out. But the corners are very sharp! I used a rabbit bit in the router to cut the relief on the edge to sit below the TS top slightly, and the leveling screws to adjust. Jim.

[Rob Hough]

Wow, I totally forgot about posting pictures for this... I ended up going with the slightly over sized holes for the bolts. Work out well. I think it came out pretty good looking:

[Paul McGaha]

Rob,

I think you're right, that is pretty good looking.

PHM

[John Petsche]

great photos and idea, thanks for posting.