How many of you glue the pocket hole frames..I ask because some of the rails are only an 1 1/4" in width. Seems like overkill to me but thought I'd ask.
[OP]
Contributor
Glue pocket holes?
How many of you glue the pocket hole frames..I ask because some of the rails are only an 1 1/4" in width. Seems like overkill to me but thought I'd ask.
Making new friends on SMC each and every day
Member
I glue everything.
While I have no information to back it up, I think it helps keep the joints from opening up. Probably only on base cabs since most uppers have the face frames glued on all pieces.
It adds almost no time and is a cheap piece of insurance.
Joe
JC Custom WoodWorks
For best results, try not to do anything stupid.
"So this is how liberty dies...with thunderous applause." - Padmé Amidala "Star Wars III: The Revenge of the Sith"
Member
I always glue joints... just like my Mother taught me
Member
+1...not as much glue as if the joints is 100% glued but enough just in case.Originally Posted by Terry Welty
Member
On table aprons that are 3.5" in height, I always put two pocket screws .75" from the edges. That leaves enough room for a 1" loose tenon between them. The tenon helps keep the apron board square as we screw the joint together. We glue the tenon, and only a little on the face/end. We also stain prior to assembly to get the staining neater, so face gluing would do less than normal anyway.
I glue 'em.
"A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".
– Samuel Butler
Member
I glue as well, not much cost in time or materials and just makes me feel better.
Member
Maybe I am in the minority, but I don't glue them. Started out not gluing so I could undo them when initially setting up, and ended up keeping the initial setup. Haven't had a problem yet, but if so, they come down easily enough.
Moderator
Jim, are you talking of gluing an end grain butt joint as in a stile/rail? If you are, there's absolutely no strength added to the joint by gluing, IMO.
Please help support the Creek.
"It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
Andy Rooney
Contributor
That's what I was thinking, but didn't post ....Mods go where angels fear to tread.
When I started woodworking, I didn't know squat. I have progressed in 30 years - now I do know squat.
Contributor
I was always told to glue and screw it together.
When dealing with end grain, a watered down solution of glue applied to the end grain will soak up and dry quickly. It keeps the end grain from absorbing too much glue and starving (weakening) the glue joint.
Member
The way I look at it is if it don't move glue it and if it does paint it or something like that.
I am a glue everything person.
Contributor
NO! I don't glue face frames joints held with pocket screws. Very little extra added strength gluing end grain to cross grain if the pocket screws are doing their job. FF's are glued to carcasses anyhow.
[/SIGPIC]Necessisity is the Mother of Invention, But If it Ain't Broke don't Fix It !!
Contributor
Up until a year ago I felt the same way. I was fabricating a butcher block counter top for a restaurant and joined two 6 ft long, 2 inch thick maple butcher block counter tops. I used bolts that are used to join counter tops to pull them together. I added Tite Bond three on the joints prior to bolting together more as a filler than for strength. The next day I flipped it over and there was a noticable ridge where they were joined. I decided to take them apart ,I took the bolts off and expected the tops to separate on their own. I tried jerking it into the air with one end on the ground and nothing happened. I had to lay it on the floor and put a block under one end. I stood on the top and it held momentarily and then came apart. I was quite surprised at the amount of strength on an end grain to end grain joint
Brian
Member
I always here that end grain glue joints have no strength or at least very little and I never depend on just glue when and end grain joint is involved. That being said, I made up some face frame joints a while back with some cherry and maple I was using for kitchen cabs - complete with pocket holes and screws. I glued it, screwed it and let it dry - over night, I think. The next day, I removed the screws and beat the heck out of it. I got it to break but it was surprisingly hard to do. There was also a bit of wood failure at the joint - this really caught my attention.
I suggest gluing pocket holes - it doesn't take much time and I think it gives a bit of insurance against the joint opening with wood movement. I definitely think it makes a difference in painted joints such as face frames - keeps the thin cracks away.
Good luck!
Phil
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote