Will a radial arm saw rip?

[Van Huskey]

The RAS is about the most versatile machine in a shop except maybe the router but unlike the router it is quite misunderstood. Unless you want to spend the time to understand the RAS then it is best to stick wth a TS information is harder to find and assimilate about the RAS. I have ripped on a RAS but for most operations the TS is a better ripper.

[Steven Green]

I've been using an RAS since the late fifties. I wouldn't rip on one at all. I've done it and it's not a lot of fun, or safe. I own a tablesaw and an RAS and use each for it's qualities. My father, a contractor sold his tablesaw when I started fooling around in the shop. He said they were too dangerous. Not too many years after that he lost some fingers to his RAS. Near as I could tell it self fed and got him. I've never been hurt by either type but I've come closer to getting hurt with the 3 horse radial arm I currently own.

[Tom Veatch]

...I can't think of any RAS operations that can't be done more safely and easily with another tool.

Half lap joints in the body of long workpieces, e.g. several along the length of an 10' 2x4? No question it can be done with other tools, but the quickest, easiest, safest, and most accurate way I've found is with a RAS. Probably not worth buying one just for that, 'though.

[Greg Sznajdruk]

I have my fathers 1956 Dewalt which he bought in 56. He ripped miles of stock with no problems. He taught me how to use this tool. I read the comments on self feeding during a rip cut. The only way I can think that will happen is if you feed the stock with the rotation of the blade ( climb cut). The RAS I have on the blade guard there is a label the says no ripping from this side. Also on the guard is a large blue metal spring. this spring rests on the stock to be ripped on the infeed side.. The other end of the guard has anti kickback fingers. I have ripped on this saw and don't find it difficult or scary.

However keeping the saw in alignment is a ROYAL PITA.

Greg

[Craig McCormick]

Most of the furniture in my house was built with a RAS including all the ripping. I do like ripping on a table saw much better though. I would love to have room for both a table saw and a RAS.

AZCRAIG

[mike holden]

Thank you all for your comments.
To summarize, The RAS *CAN* rip, but is not the safest way to do so.

I think I will limp along with my handsaws until I can replace my dead tablesaw with another tablesaw.

Thank you again,
Mike

[Craig McCormick]

If your RAS is self feeding you are doing something wrong.

AZCRAIG

[Bill White]

AHHEM!! Let me count the ways.....
Bought my RAS in 1978 to build my first home. Didn'y buy a TS until 3 yrs. ago. I've ripped, mitered, routed, dadoed, blah blah with the RAS and still have all the digits. Granted, I've used hold downs, feather boards, Board Buddies, and all sorts of jigs. Just now getting over the abject terror I've faced in using the TS. I guess that, if'n ya stay scared of all of 'em, you'll diminish your chances of dismemberment.
Bill

[Keith Weber]

I know the radial excels in crosscutting, but can it rip boards? If so, what is the limiting factor?

Limiting factor = Bravery

I can't say that I've been a big fan of those things since I was attacked by one back in the 80's when I was 18. I was working in a lumber yard making 1000's of 2x2 joist braces out of 16-foot 2x2's. While I was using both hands to slide the stack of 2x2's into position for another repetitive cut, a little cutoff triangle sitting beside the blade got sucked into the blade. 99.9 times out of a 100, a little piece like that would get bounced off the back tin wall and just startle me with the noise. This time, the wooden triangle stood its ground and the whole blade/motor unit came rocketing forward faster than a nitro-dragster off the green drop. Before I even knew what hit me, I would only capable of counting to 8 before the plastic surgeons did their thing and gave me the gift of decimal counting once again.

I would not want to rip on one of those things, but that's just me!

[Lee Schierer]

Although rips can certainly be done on a RAS, they are messy and can be dangerous. Unlike crosscutting, where the blade either climbcuts or is pushed into the stock while held against the fence, ripping must be done with the blade rotating directly toward the user. The blade guard must be tilted so its rear just clears the stock being ripped, preventing stock being lifted off the table. While this adds safety, the front edge of the blade facing the operator is exposed, and LOTS of sawdust is thrown directly into his face! Ripping on a RAS is a nasty operation!

This is not true on my Craftsman saw. I always lower the guard in the front where I fed in the boards when ripping so it just clears the piece. This prevents the part from rising up. Then I lower the splitter/kick back pawls so they just clear the board in the back. With this set up there is no way for a board to rise up during the cut. There is blade exposed at the back of the guard away from me until I go to pull the boards out, which is normally done with the saw off. I have full plastic guards on each side of the blade as well. This was a stock guard on my saw.

If you bury the tips of the blade about 1/8-1/4" into the table surface when ripping like the instructions say to do, kick back is no more likely than on a table saw.

I still have my RAS and it gets used occasionally. If I had purchased my TS first, it is likely I wouldn't own a RAS as the accuracy just isn't there with a RAS like it is on a TS.

[Jason White]

Yes, you can rip on them. Go to your local library and check out a book or two on radial arm saws. I've seen several there at one time or another.
Jason

I am in need of a new tablesaw. Watching Craigslist, I see that I can get a radial arm saw in good condition for a third of what a tablesaw runs.
I know the radial excels in crosscutting, but can it rip boards? If so, what is the limiting factor?
Seriously, I dont know these things and would like to be enlightened.
Thanks,
Mike

[Chip Lindley]

Lee, mine was a 1977 Crapsman, underpowered with iffy settings when moved from 90 degrees. Perhaps I got the blade guard position reversed. Senior Moments are now allowed to all Baby Boomers!

The times I've ripped on any RAS can be counted on one hand. This says, "I'd rather NOT, if at all Possible!" I reserve the gynormous Rockwell 18" and smaller, but solid 12" RAS's for crosscutting and miters.

[Tim Sgrazzutti]

Hi Mike,

My answer is that a well built RAS, that's capable of being properly adjusted, and will hold its adjustments, is as safe to rip on as any circular bladed machine is. You also need an appropriate blade, stock that is safe to rip (a jointed face and edge), and above all, knowledge of how to do it safely.

Ripping on any circular bladed machine can be a dangerous operation. Stock that isn't flat, doesn't have a jointed edge to run against the fence, or has internal stresses that cause it to distort when cut is bad to cut on either an RAS or a TS. I generally rip only sheet stock and 3/4" or thinner solid wood on the RAS. For thicker wood, a bandsaw works better than any machine with a circular blade, and is a safer bet. Since I suspect you don't use many sheet goods, being a hand tool guy, I'd say to get a bandsaw instead.

At any rate, I see we're practically neighbors, so if you're interested in checking out how to safely rip on a good old 50's cast iron DeWalt, let me know. I also have a few books on the subject you're welcome to borrow.

[Curt Harms]

Half lap joints in the body of long workpieces, e.g. several along the length of an 10' 2x4? No question it can be done with other tools, but the quickest, easiest, safest, and most accurate way I've found is with a RAS. Probably not worth buying one just for that, 'though.

Well, that and providing another flat surface to clutter up and have to pick up and put away before you can use the machine . I used mine to make a semi torsion box assembly table. Cut notches half way through 1/2" X 3" pieces to form the "egg crate" base. It worked well for that. A router or table saw would not have worked as well IMO.

[David Winer]

I’m with Lee Shierer on the radial arm saw ripping issue. His description of the safe procedure is what I have followed since acquiring my Craftsman 12 inch RAS in the early 70s. The setup for ripping leaves little opportunity for kickback. In front of the cut the blade guard almost touches the board, and at the rear of the cut there are anti-kickback pawls and a splitter. These pawls work well--they dig in at the slightest movement toward the front. The correct rip settings for adjusting the guard, pawls, and splitter are fast and easy once you get the hang of it.
Chip Lindley remarks: “Back in the 60s and 70s, Sears touted the RAS as *the* jack of all trades! It was advertised as being able to do Everything! Many bought into this.” Yea, verily. I was one of those who accepted the concept and as a result used the machine for all sorts of woodworking operations. Now I have special purpose tools, but then the RAS was all I had. I learned to use it and its accessories and they worked. It never occurred to me to question its ripping safety as especially dangerous, so I happily ripped away on countless projects.