Grizzly G0691 Micro-Adjustable Rip Fence Jig
In the “Wood” Magazine, dated June 2009, issue 190 there is a plan for a table saw rip fence micro-adjuster. I cannot include this plan here, because it would be a copy write infringement issue. However, I can post my photos of my version, I made for my Grizzly G0691 table saw.
It was a fun little project to do, but the most important thing is, how well does it work? The reason I wanted this micro-adjustability in the first place is because I had installed a WIXEY table saw digital fence readout. After I did this I discovered two things:
1. The Wixey was way more accurate them my flat measuring tape, that came with the saw. The tape is off by around 1/16 inch or more at 2 or more feet out. I will probably replace with a better one.
2. The slap and tap method of adjustment does not work that well with the Wixey, because it is so precise. You end up slapping and tapping a lot more then you did before, because now you “KNOW” what the precise measurement is and there is a tendency to become “anal” about getting it “RIGHT ON” (the reason you might buy the Wixey in the first place). What I usually do is use the flat measuring tape, to quickly get to a close measurement, and then finish up with the Wixey.
This jig really works well, it is right on and has no backlash, when reversing and tweaking the measurement, you can leave it on the saw (with only the rip fence magnet locked down) and it does not interfere with normal saw operations. You can also remove it or re-install it completely in 2 seconds.
To use the jig, you place the jig into position over the rip fence and lock the first magnet down. Don’t lock the 2nd (rail) magnet down until after you have positioned your fence within a small amount of where you want to be, then lock the 2nd (rail) magnet down, make your micro adjustment and when you are all set, finally lock down the rip fence handle. For your next cut, unlock the rip fence handle and then – don’t forget- unlock the 2nd (rail) magnet (if you are done micro-adjusting). You could just leave the jig in this position all the time (with only rip fence magnet locked down) and be ready to use it, or simply unlock the first (rip fence) magnet and remove the jig from the saw. This all might sound like a lot of work, but believe me it takes a lot longer to describe how to do it, then it is to do actually do it.
Here are some details to go along with the photos. The threaded rod I used is a ¼ X 28 TPI. I wanted a little more precision then the ¼ X 20 TPI would have had and I did not want to drop down to a thinner, #10 X 32 TPI because I wanted to keep the rod flex to a minimum.
I used two MagSwitch 20MM magnets to secure the jig, one for the rip fence and the other for the rail.
The threaded rod is secured with aircraft style lock nuts with the plastic centers. They allowed me to tighten the rod and keep the “backlash” down to nothing, this helps when you adjust past the measurement you wanted, and have to reverse the direction.
Rockler sells a micro-adjuster, but it only adjusts to the left, you have to manually move the rip fence back to the right (and back off the adjuster) for an adjustment in that direction.
The wood is Cherry and Walnut which is what I happened to have handy. The finish is one application of Bill Bush’s “Bush Oil” and then buffed with a Beal Buffing system. Did not really have to buff it, but I was looking for a project to try it out on anyway.
The jig is built in two halves and connected by two pieces of rod. I did not have any ¼ inch brass rod as indicated in the Wood magazine article, so I again used what I had, which was a 8 inch piece of brass colored hollow pipe, cut in half. The kind of tubing you would use to run the electrical wire through, when building a table lamp, around 3/8 of inch diameter.
I made my handle on the wood lathe, a ¼ inch hole was drilled completely through the handle. A ¼ X 28 TPI regular nut, was placed in the end of the handle and secured with epoxy. An aircraft style lock nut was installed (with a flat washer) at the front of the handle. By tightening the aircraft nut against the front of the handle, it squeezes the handle so that it was then “attached” to the threaded rod.
I used enough of the brass pipe so that I would have a 1 inch adjustment travel in either direction (2inches of travel total).
The recessed hole in the bottom of the jig is to accommodate the “knurled adjustment knob” in the Grizzly G0691’s fence, it also helps to position the jig, the same, every time you mount it.
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