HVLP Finish Issues

[Frederick Rowe]

EM6500 can be tinted. So I could use a spray gun to spray blue or green or whatever color I have the local paint store (or Homestead Finishing) tint it.

EM6500 can be tinted, check the Target Coatings web site for a listing of compatible colorants. When dry, EM6500 will have a satin sheen. You can stop at that point, but for a different sheen or to make the finish more durable, top coat with EM6000; a straight forward finish schedule. Both EM6500 and EM6000 are formulated for spraying straight from the can. However, always use a test board, depending on your spray equipment you may need to thin slightly. Both products are fast drying, I'm able to re-coat EM6000 in 30 minutes.

Does conventional lacquer paint need a protective top coat also?

Generally, no. Lacquer is a durable topcoat. In situations where the finish will be exposed to high levels of surface abrasion such as a bar top, a tougher finish such a polyurethane will provide better protection.

For your project, a home theater/AV center, lacquer will be more than sufficient.

[Clinton Calwell]

I also have the Fuji Spray Mini Mite 3, and was looking for a good Waterbourne finish to spray both MDF and Maple cabinetry. Many of the brands mentioned in this thread (Target, SW, Etc.) aren't readily available in Metro Vancouver, after some searching decided to try out ML Campbell's Agualente WB product line.

It sprays extremely well, and aside from sanding the edges, no other prep was required for MDF, the Primer sealed the edges in the first coat.

Highly recommend the product!

[Dennis Lopeman]

... the brands mentioned in this thread (Target, SW, Etc.) aren't readily available in Metro Vancouver, after some searching decided to try out ML Campbell's Agualente WB product line...

Funny you mentioned that. I just got Agualente on Friday!! Mostly b/c it's the only locally availabel WB product (that was mentioned is high quality here) in Georgia!! I talked to Jeff at Target Coatings, and he recommended I use the EM2000, rather than EM6000... it's like $75/gal... he said I would proly need 2 - so add $20 S&H... WEll, the Agualente is $56/gal.

Anyway - I hope I'm as pleased as you are Clinton. What size tip nozzle dod you use? the 1.5 mil?

[Tony Bilello]

Does conventional lacquer paint need a protective top coat also?

No it does not although I personally think it looks better with a clear top coat. Purely a matter of taste.

[Clinton Calwell]

Anyway - I hope I'm as pleased as you are Clinton. What size tip nozzle dod you use? the 1.5 mil?

While I'm new to finishing, I'm sure you will be very happy. When I was in to pick it up at the supplier, I was talking to a guy how does a lot of high end custom cabinetry and he was also very pleased with the whole line of ML Campbell Waterbourne products.

I'm using the #4 tip (1.4mm), and it sprays on very nicely indeed. 2 coats of Primer left MDF and Maple Plywood both feeling like glass.

[Henry Ambrose]

snipped.....

I tried using SW enamel on a test board and while the finish looked great, the gun cleanup was difficult and the fumes (even with a respirator) was almost too much to take.

Your respirator is not doing its job. Buy a better one - one that is designed to filter what you are spraying. If its working properly you won't smell anything.

And if the SW enamel looked great it might be a good choice don't you think? And maybe buy some liners for the cup on the gun to ease clean-up.

[Jeff Jewitt]

EM6500 and the General Finshes white acrylic lacquers can be tinted, but only to pastels and off-white shades because they are basically white paints. To achieve other colors like deep reds and blues and blacks, we use a clear finish and add the correct color to it.

Generally when doing a painted finish over MDF, plywood or wood that has a bit of grain in it (birch) you would do well to use a primer first like the General Finishes undercoater/primer. These primers have inert minerals in them different from the color pigment to help fill as well as seal. Typically we recommend 2 coats of primer and two coats of paint. You will definitely have to sand the first coat of primer as well as a light sanding of the second. I think the GF primer does a better filling job than the EM6500 by itself.

If the piece is not subject to heavy abuse, you can leave it at that. Putting a clearcoat over the paint will give it some "scrub" resistance, meaning it can be cleaned easier, but if you want extra durablility and chemical resistance, we suggest a clearcoat like poly in the appropriate sheen with cross-linker. Another advantage of this is that it allows you to change the sheen if the paint (Target EM6500 comes only in satin)

Typically what's nice about the Target and General products is that they are all sprayed with the standard #4 set that comes with the Fuji turbine packages. (I too really like the gravity gun). If you go with a paint store type product you may have to thin them as they are meant for hand application or used with airless spray equipment which is designed to handle thicker products.

[Joe Chritz]

I am currently doing a paint project using SW pro-classic. It some new formulation that has Alklyd at the end of the name. Thinned by about 20% it sprays OK from a HVLP gravity gun. There was a learning curve to move slower with the gun since it appears the finish needs to be sprayed on a bit thicker than I am used to with USL or shellac.

All in all I am fairly happy with the finish, although I believe something like EM6500 would be easier to use from an application stand point.

Joe

[Phil Phelps]

I am currently doing a paint project using SW pro-classic. It some new formulation that has Alklyd at the end of the name. Thinned by about 20% it sprays OK from a HVLP gravity gun. There was a learning curve to move slower with the gun since it appears the finish needs to be sprayed on a bit thicker than I am used to with USL or shellac.

All in all I am fairly happy with the finish, although I believe something like EM6500 would be easier to use from an application stand point.

Joe

Joe, I've sprayed more alkyd paint through a HVLP than I care to mention. You have to thin it so much, you usually knock down a lot of the sheen. If you're painting a cabinet with shelves, you constantly have to worry about sags and runs. You should spray a minimun of three coats and don't try to cover in one spraying. The best results I've ever had was alkyd paint through an airless with a FF tip. Looks like baked on enamel.