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Thread: Ugh. Well I cut the tenon/foot a shade to small...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Salt Lake City, UT
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    749

    Ugh. Well I cut the tenon/foot a shade to small...

    A first for me, believe it or not. I was trying to cut a foot for a bowl that was the perfect size so that my dovetail jaws on the chuck would hold solid but not mark it. (It never happened before because I never even got close with the Barracuda 2 chuck having serrated jaws. It always marked no matter what...)

    So now I have a bowl with a great shape that I would like to keep... And it is close. So very close. It will grab the bowl but with too much pressure on the cut it will shift in the jaws. So I have to come up with something else. To hold it. The vicmarc step jaws are too large but the shark jaws would work. unfortunately I don't own anything but the stock 2" dovetail jaws for that chuck.

    I also have a SuperNova2 chuck that is NIB that I have thought about using. The step jaws for it are just enough smaller that it would grab it. But buying some jaws for the turning of just 1 bowl seems a little wrong... (Even to me who will seemingly spend money on anything...)

    I have watched with great interest Bob Hamiltons videos where in some of which he uses these deep wooden jaws. His comment in one of the videos was that he used his Oneway Flat Jaws to mount the wood too. I have looked those up and I can see how they would be used to good effect. However the one type of chuck it seems I don't own is a OneWay. And again buying all of that setup for just 1 bowl seems somewhat wasteful.

    So I thought about doing much the same thing with my PSI Cole Jaws. Just mount wooden jaws with the screws from the back. It would probably work but that chuck wobbles on my 3520b with the adapter. So I would rather not do that.

    So the real questions...

    1- Any ideas?!!?

    2- Can cole jaws be used in the way I described? I don't want to mess up the threads in them but it seems like it should work.

    3- Can wood be mounted right to the "slides" underneath the normal jaws? It would seem like with proper screws you could drill and then mount the wood using the machine screws right to the jaw slides. Would be nice way to get some great flexibility out of a chuck. You could cut them to whatever size you needed.

    (NOTE: You know in thinking about it if I get the right screws for my cole jaws I could go in from the front and screw something thin like 1/2" or 3/4" MDF right to the front of the cole jaws in the same way as the little nubs are mounted. That could be interesting...)

    4- So what have you guys and gals done when you have made my mistake?

    Thanks again for all the help to this and every other question!

    Joshua

  2. #2
    Turn a new tenon, the correct size then make a hole in it the depth and diameter of the "too small" tenon (make it SNUG) and glue it in place.
    Once it's dry, you can true it up if you need and chuck up the bowl and not lose any of the original shape.
    Change One Thing

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Harvey, Michigan
    Posts
    20,804
    Wrap a piece of electrical tape around the tenon. One or two wraps will give the jaws something to clamp down on and should work it you do not apply to much pressure. Worth a shot.
    Steve

    “You never know what you got til it's gone!”
    Please don’t let that happen!
    Become a financial Contributor today!

  4. #4
    You could use a few pieces of tissue or paper towels as well, or just slightly wet the tenon and let it swell a bit. If there is black from the jaws, some concentrated lemon juice will clean it up. I use this on box lids when I slightly over adjust.

    robo hippy

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Posts
    28,570
    Glue on a glue block and turn it to a size that can be gripped by your chuck.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Marieholm. Sweden
    Posts
    17

    Tenon too small

    Hi Folks
    When things like that happens to me I use hose clamps.
    That is I cut the hose clamp band to sufficient lenght to fit around the tenon, put the hose clamp in the chuck and the tenon in the hose clamp and tighten the chuck, works Ok.
    Sometimes I use cardboard tubes that I cut rings from on the bandsaw,
    thick cardboard from tubes four to six inches in diameter works best.
    Kurt Johansson
    Master woodturner

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Forest, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    386
    Hi, Joshua:
    If the tenon size is that close I would lean toward Steve's idea of putting a couple of wraps of tape around it.

    The chuck I have my Oneway flat jaws mounted on is a SuperNova 2. The jaws for the the Oneway basic and Talon chucks have the same hole spacing as the the Nova jaws. You may have missed this video since it was posted in another thread: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XROCOQLX8ho

    You might also get some ideas from this thread: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...27#post1314427

    Take care
    Bob

  8. #8
    Agree with Steve and Bob - I might lean toward blue painters tape - plenty of friction, but easy to release. Sounds like a few thousandths of tape will easily firm up that grip.

  9. #9
    Blue painters tape, 2-3 wraps.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Southwestern Penna.
    Posts
    329
    I use a large rubber band or cut a piece of rubber innertube and wrap it around the tendon. This gives good grip and does not mark the wood.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Atikokan, Rainy River district, Ontario
    Posts
    3,540
    I would go with Ken's idea, chuck up a block and cut a recess in it that your bowl tenon fits into, glue the bowls tenon in without removing it from the chuck, so it stays centered .
    That way you don't have to guess of the bowl will stay put, I don't like to take chances when that close to finishing
    Have fun and take care

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Salt Lake City, UT
    Posts
    749

    Thanks for the help!

    Well I took the much appreciated advice given here and I used some paper towel to get it packed out a bit. It worked like a champ. Tightened right now and spun true. A very clever trick that will work again in the future should I screw up in the same way.

    Sadly the tenon itself failed shortly after I started turning the inside out. I hoped it would keep the same shape but that wasn't to be. So I cut a recess to replace the failed tenon and it worked. I got it shaped up nicely.

    I will take a pic as soon as I find my camera. I have a young daughter that considers everything in the house hers and well apparently today that involved my camera...

    Ah ha! Wait. I found it. So here are a few snaps of the re-shaped bowl. It is kiln dried American Walnut. I am not sure that there officially is American walnut but the vendor I bought it from swore that's what this was.

    It is 2" high and 7 1/2" across. When the tenon broke the rim of the bowl got pretty dinged up on the ways of the lathe. So I chamfered the rim outwards to mask it. All in all I kind of like the shape. I just wish it still had the foot.

    Thanks again for the great help!
    Joshua
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Wimberley, Texas
    Posts
    2,828
    Best as it is without the foot. Like the rim too. Consider a couple layers of old white sheet as a photo background. Just an after midnight thought.
    Richard in Wimberley

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