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Thread: 14" bandsaw woes... Major woes!!!

  1. #31
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    Jan 2010
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    Orland Hills, IL (near Chicago)
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    Yes, I just haven't got a chance to do that yet. I am at work now. ('till 12am CST)

    Since that is a very simple test, I will do it as soon as I get home.

    I just hope the countertop isn't filled with kitchen stuff. I don't wanna wake the wif and kids. That would be bad, very bad.

    Quote Originally Posted by george wilson View Post
    Did you read my above post????? Check the blade for a crooked weld.

  2. #32
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    If the weld is crooked, then what do I do? This would mean the 4 brand new blades are defective. (still not at home yet, I just cannot stop thinking about this.)

    How and where do I buy quality blades? I thought Olson made good stuff. I bought these from peachtree.



    Quote Originally Posted by george wilson View Post
    Did you read my above post????? Check the blade for a crooked weld.

  3. #33
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    Well, I'll be a son of a...

    Evidently the quality control department at Olson has narcolepsy. They must not look very hard at there blades before they leave.

    I have 3 blades here. 2 - 1/4" blades (one brand new fresh out of the box minutes ago. The other brand new but fresh out of the box 6 weeks ago.)

    I laid the original blade (the known bad one) on my counter top and clearly saw that about 6" away from the weld the blade is not flat or true or whatever we call it.

    I also have a brand new 1/2" blade as well. The 1/2" blade didn't look as bad on the counter, but was BAD on the saw.

    Well, I feel better that I do not have to keep pouring $$$ into this budget saw.

    What is the solution, where do you guys buy your blades from? Mine are 92 1/2"


    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Dunn View Post
    Yes, I just haven't got a chance to do that yet. I am at work now. ('till 12am CST)

    Since that is a very simple test, I will do it as soon as I get home.

    I just hope the countertop isn't filled with kitchen stuff. I don't wanna wake the wif and kids. That would be bad, very bad.

  4. #34
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    Orland Hills, IL (near Chicago)
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    pics...

    Here are some pics of the blades on my countertop.

    1/4"...









    Test cuts on a scrap 2x4. (this piece has a 45 degree cut, not that it matters, I thought I'd say, just in case it threw off perspective.)

    Free hand scroll cuts...







    freehand straight cut...





    Well, what do you think? The cut actually looks pretty clean, surprisingly. I am beginning to not regret this bandsaw purchase so much now. The cuts went really smoothly as well.

    I cleaned the blade with Mineral Spirits, de-burred the backside, then applied some Olson wax.

    I also installed the levelers (tonight) and wheel brushes (a few days ago).

    I think I will buy some new thrust bearings. (probably a fence too!!!) These were pretty nasty, I clean them up a bit though. Since they are cheap I think I'll go for it.

    The vibration has been cut down a bit as well too. I think I can still make it better. I am gonna get those link belts too.

    So, what do I do about these blades that suck so badly?

    Thanx a million to all who posted!!!

    shotgunn
    Last edited by Michael Dunn; 02-13-2010 at 4:15 AM.

  5. #35
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    Feb 2009
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    Michigan
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    OK lets make sure its the tires that are the problem. Does the entire tire move on the wheel or is it just the crown on the tire? Seems to me that if you didn't take some care when putting the tire on the wheel it could be off center in one area. That would throw the crown of the tire off. Something to check before taking the sandpaper to the tires. I would be surprised to find the crown on the tire walking from side to side on the circumference.

  6. #36
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    westchester cty, NY
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    for blades, call iturra design. with one purchase, he solved more of my bandsaw problems for less money than anyone else. he really, really knows bandsaws. and it wouldn't surprise me that he's probably forgotten more about your particular band saw than you will ever know.

    as for the blades you have, use them on questionable material. the main problem with a loping blade is the vibration it creates in the saw and the wear it places on the thrust bearings. those defective blades will cut, but they will punish your saw and bearings more than a properly welded blade.

    BTW, how sure are you that your counter top is perfectly flat. did you check it with a straight edge before you checked the blades on it? just a thought.

    does your saw have flat or crowned wheels? if they are flat (non-crowned) then wheel coplanarity is, according to mark duginske, important. where wheels are crowned, there is a school of thought that coplanarity is less important, but i'm not sure i agree with that. but lou iturra can speak to that far more eloquently than i can. good luck.

  7. #37
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    Williamsburg,Va.
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    Have you checked your counter top to see if IT IS FLAT?

  8. #38
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    Saskatoon Saskatchewan
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    What you're showing with the blade isn't unreasonable.

    Most blades will be longer on one edge than the other, it's part of the toothing process.
    Darnell

  9. #39
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    Jan 2008
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    Chico, California
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    I'd just cut the thing at the weld and silver braze it back straight. I can redo a blade and have it back on the saw in less than 10 minutes. That goes for broken ones too. I just buy the 100' rolls of stock and make my own up. YMMV

  10. #40
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    Dec 2008
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    Saskatoon Saskatchewan
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    Hey Paul, what do you use for brazing?

    I've got a Foley brazer that I've never used and I'm looking for tips.
    Darnell

  11. #41
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    The entire counter top is not perfectly flat, but I found a spot that was good and flat.

    One of my two 1/4" blades looked really good and straight. The other did not look so great.

    So I put the good one on the saw and there was no more loping.

    I made a pretty clean test cut too.

    I guess I need to learn how to weld, eh? Cool, more tools I get to buy, eventually.

    Thanx,

    shotgunn

  12. #42
    Hi,

    It looks to me that you have a bent bottom shaft!
    Transport to your place or before can contribute to that.
    The vibration is a sign towards that to.
    Run the machine without blade, start up and switch of quickly, then look at your bottom wheel and pulley.
    or use a dial indicator on both sides to look for run outs.
    Hope this is of help.
    http://treadleit.com/ for all information about treadle machine big and small

  13. #43
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    Jan 2008
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    Darnell I use 45% silver brazing wire available at the welding shop. The guide is a piece of aluminum angle that I cut a slot in. I use a mapp gas torch or a propane/oxy setup depending what is at hand. I grind a bevel on each end to match and to get a bit more surface area. I have to agree with Bernhard as far as checking the bottom shaft too. Running without blade will check the bottom wheel. Hope this helps.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #44
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    Good News!!!

    I got my hands on a wheeler puller and pulled off the old pulley in just a few seconds. I put the new one, removed the old belts and installed the new twist drive belts. My vibration has been DRAMATICALLY reduced. The machine runs quiet and pretty darn smooth, especially considering what I have gone through.

    It won't pass the dime test, but I imagine most tools that aren't made with a LOT of cast iron (or at least one that just weighs a lot) still have some vibration. I think the amount of vibration I have is not enough to severely degrade the quality of my cuts.

    Now I still have to get my table inserts cut out. I bought a fly cutter, but it doesn't appear to one of high quality ($10 @ ptreeusa) I'll figure it out.

    Thanx guys!!!!!!!

    shotgunn

  15. #45
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    Feb 2009
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    League City, Texas
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    Not sure I understand, does this mean you replaced the wheel(s) and drive belt?

    FWIW, solid V belts are prone to vibration when they sit for long periods. Link belts tend to run much smoother. My HF bandsaw runs like a MUCH more expensive machine due to the link belt...
    Trying to follow the example of the master...

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