Oneida DC remote controller

[Tommy Squires]

I purchased one of Oneida's Pro systems a couple of years ago and had it equipped with a remote on/off switch that I could carry from machine to machine in my shop. A year or so in the remote quit working and after replacing the batteries and cleaning the little switches inside, I called Oneida for help. They said I just needed to replace the unit and guessed that the printed circuit board was faulty. No warranty so I had to pay way too much for its replacement. I did. New one worked for about a year and now has given up too. I don't abuse these and I am growing frustrated. I am considering finding someone to adapt a garage controller for a more robust fix. I am not good with electronics.

Have any of you had similar problems? Any suggestions that don't involve violence or large outlays of cash?

[Greg Portland]

These remotes are basically a magnetic 'switch' that are turned on & off by a small power source. I took a 30A dual pole contactor (~$45 or so from Grainger) and turned it on/off with a Christmas tree light RF remote control from Radio Shack ($20) that sends power from a wall outlet to the contactor. The contactor & electrical connections will need to be placed inside a small steel electrical workbox ($20) mounted onto a wall. If the remote ever dies again, you can replace it with another RF remote ($20 max).

Connections:
- 220V line from breaker box -> contactor -> 220 line to DC
- 110V line from contactor control pins to plug -> RF base plug -> 110V wall outlet


I've been using this setup for 4+ years and have only had to replace the remotes batteries. The remote is very small (car key fob size, not Long Ranger size). The only circuit boards are in the RF base plug which is NOT near any vibrations so it should have a long life.

[Greg Portland]

I think you may need to bypass your Oneida's magnetic start for my previous suggestion to work (not vary familiar with their remotes).

[John Harden]

I have a 2 HP Oneida cyclone. It came without a switch; just a short cord that came out of the motor. At their recommendation, I just wired it into the remote control module Oneida sells and used their remote to turn it on. LIke you, I also didn't like their remote. It was fussy and the tiny remote didn't want to work reliably.

After a few years, I replaced their remote setup with a Long Ranger. I've used these before and they work really well.

Wire comes out of the motor (no switch), and the plug on the end goes straight into the Long Ranger, 220V controller. The controller is plugged into a 220V outlet.

I turn it on and off with the remote. Been that way for about 3 years now and it works like a charm. The Long Ranger (just like the Oneida remote system) is normally OFF. You can only turn it on with the remote, so it is perfectly safe to not have a switch in line between the controller and the outlet.

Remote has been knocked off my tool pouch and hit the garage floor hard too many times to count and it still keeps on ticking. When I finally break it, I'll replace it with the same setup. After three years of a lot of use, that's about the best testimonial I can give.

Regards,

John

[Sam Layton]

Tommy,

I have a set up like Greg has. Works great. I added a cut off switch and a night light to let me know when the system is on. I turn off the night light, and my system is off, and no stray signals can turn it on.

Sam

[Ken Fitzgerald]

My Oneida remote has worked well for over 3 years now.

[Cody Colston]

I have a 2 hp commercial cyclone and use Oneida's remote. I got two of the key-chain type controls when I ordered it around 6 years ago. The dog chewed up one of the remotes but I still use the other one and it works just like new. I CA glued a piece of velco to the back of the remote and put another piece on a 1" wide elastic band that I wear on my wrist. The remote is on my arm and I never have to hunt for it. Works great.

[Tommy Squires]

Greg, John and Sam: Thanks I will try to find someone with wire bending skills to help pull this together.

Ken and Cody: Congrads on your experience with Oneida. Not sure how this helps but glad yours was better than mine.

[Greg Portland]

Thanks for posting the pictures Sam, it saved me the trouble. That is exactly what I have for my DC. I will add that if you decide to build this, make sure you get the correctly rated contactor. My DC has a 5HP / 30A / 220V motor so I wanted a "definite purpose dual pole" contactor rated for 30A of INDUCTIVE load (not resistive load). 30A of resistive load would be cheaper but not rated for the application.