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Thread: ATF55 E-Plus Circular saw Eval - Pics.

  1. #1
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    ATF55 E-Plus Circular saw Eval - Pics.

    Some of you have been waiting for my review of Festool's ATF55 E-Plus Circular Saw....so here it is.

    Note: The views here are my own and the eval was done by me and Joe Meazle who may even post his own thoughts and concerns later on.

    This eval was done on my own time and is my own opinion of this Saw as I see it. Your mileage may vary, but I do have a $150 DeWalt Circular saw to compare it too....and I will when it comes to the cuts made on the Guiderail system.

    The ATF55 was packed very well and was contined inside it's own Systainer. The use of the Systainer is pretty neat as it will "lock" to the top of the Festool Vac's for compact carrying as an entire unit for easier portability.

    First things noticed upon removal from the Systainer:
    1. It has a "stamped steel" sawplate. First appearance kinda gives one the feeling that it's cheap. Maybe I was just too used to my DeWalt circular saw that has a nice aluminum plate as the saw plate.
    2. The fit and finish is very well done and up to the normal standards for Festool.
    3. It's lighter in weight than my DeWalt circular saw.
    4. It is variable speed.
    5. It's a "Plunge Type" saw.

    Now....let's see and go over some of the features of this saw.

    The first pic is of the saw asleep in it's Systainer.

    In the next pic you'll see the business side of the saw. The blade and riving knife is completely covered by the side housing of the saw. This is a big plus in my opinion as it protects you and the saw blade from injury. The default position for the saw is in the "non-plunged" sitting position.

    The next pic is a good look at the "Variable Speed Control" (round star knob on the left of the saw handle) so you can dial in the speed you want from 1 to 6. The Green LED says when the saw is at full speed and the Red LED comes on when the saw reaches 70% of the overload rating of the saw. If the saw reaches an "overload" state, the saw simply shuts itsself off.
    The Green button on the rear of the trigger is the "trigger lock" and is operated via you righ-hand thumb. Pushing this up releases the lock to allow you to turn on and plunge the saw with one easy motion. Honestly, it's not as bad as you think. Once you try it more than once, it becomes a simple thing to do.

    The next photo shows the sawblade / riving knife extended beyond the saw guard and to access the screws to remove the blade or riving knife is exposed in the "windows" cut into the saw guard.

    The next photo gives us a good view from the top side of the saw.

    The Round Green knob closest to the sawblade and slightly in front of the saw handle is the "Spindle Lock" for locking the saw spindle so you don't have to hold the sawblade while removing or puting on a new sawblade.

    The On/Off switch for the saw is the usual "trigger" type switch located opposite side of the Trigger Lock on the handle.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Dennis Peacock; 10-25-2004 at 11:37 PM.
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  2. #2
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    Next we see the front edge of the saw with it sitting on one of the guiderails. You'll notice a black knob on the left-bottom side of the saw front. There are TWO of these and are the way to lock the saw at any angle from 49 degrees to 0 degrees....or I guess you could say, from a 90 degree cut to a 49 degree cut. Either way you want to say it works for me. The depth stop is directly behind that knob and is released and locked with a phillips screwdriver as opposed to the allen head type screw that is on the blade/riving knife and 90 degree stop. More on this later.

    Moving on, we see what it's like to do a 45 degree cut on the guiderail. More on this later as well.

    Last but not least of the pics.

    We see that there is a "round" rubber end to the dust collection hose that is a "firm" pressed fit into the "not-so-round" dust exhaust port on the saw. Surprisingly enough, it holds well and dust collection with a vac attached is very good. There is a single inside rib that "locks" the hose in place and takes a little "tugging" to get in out.

    Next....is the "cast-in" Bevel Guage, the rear saw tilt locking knob. If you'll notice....the bevel indicator is "square" at the top of the pointer and can get confusing when in the non-90 degree cut position. "Which side to I read that from?"
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  3. #3
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    <b>Pros: </b>

    1. Very well made.
    2. Well balanced overall.
    3. Very Quiet when compared to other circular saws.
    4. High quality standards.
    5. Cuts clean.
    6. Almost 100% dust collection at the saw.
    7. Adjustment points for removing the slop out of the saw for guiderail use.
    8. Plunge operation is extremely smooth and easy.
    9. Variable speed for when you are cutting soft metals or stone.
    10. All adjustments are easy to make.
    11. Makes plunge cuts very easy (after removing the riving knife)
    12. Making a cut with this saw ALWAYS directs the saw AWAY from the operator (due to the plunge action that already puts the operator in the forward motion mindset).
    13. Depth of cut adjustment is easy to make via the depth stop near the front of the saw.

    <b>Cons:</b>

    Very few to list here on this.

    1. Bevel guage is difficult to impossible to read and adjust accurately.
    2. You have to use TWO hand for a 45 degree cut when using the guiderail for a "safer cut". Without the left hand support? The saw would have a very easy time to slide or slip off the guiderail and would ruin your saw cut or even cause personal injury.
    3. It takes more than one tool to make all the necessary adjustments on this saw. The onboard tool is not the single tool solution for this saw.

    Here is a shot of the saw / guiderail while making a 45 degree cut "unsupported" by the left hand (as shown above) and the last pic is the same exact cut but only this time, including the left hand for support of the cut.

    <b>Suggestions for Festool:</b>

    1. Let the Vac run for 5 seconds instead of the now 1 Second run time when the tool is turned off at the tool.
    2. Move the onboard allen wrench to the Front of the saw and put a "knob" on the rear of the saw (left rear corner) so you will have something to hold on to during any non-90 Degree cut on the guiderail.
    3. Do something about the bevel guage. It's awful and hard to read. Don't cast the bevel guage, machine it or even apply a metal strip with the marking on it and rivet it to the location.
    4. Change the bevel indicator from "square" to at least a dull point.
    5. Change out the little bitty screws where you adjust out the slop of the saw plate to the guiderail to the same allen head screws so that the provided allen wrench can also adjust the "play" in the saw plate.

    That's all I could find. Eveything else is up to the Festool Standards.

    Nice Saw Festool....Now...about those improvements.?????

    Thanks for reading.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Dennis Peacock; 10-25-2004 at 11:39 PM.
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    Dennis -
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis Peacock

    6. Change the "Phillips" head screw on the depth adjustment to the same exact Allen head screw so that you don't have to "hunt" for a phillips screwdriver to adjust it.
    First, thanks Dennis, for the review. Once again we seem to see the same things, but I don't understand item 6. I also have a Phillips head screw in the depth adjustment but I believe it is there to just hold the adjuster together as all I need to do is push the adjuster in against the spring pressure and move the stop along the arc until I get the setting I want. Couldn't be easier and requires no tool. Try it and see if you can make it function that way. I think this makes it one of the best feature of the saw. Thanks again for the time you are putting into these reviews.

    Greg

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the review Dennis. As someone who has used this saw a LOT over the last 8 months, I agree with your suggested improvements (except 6 which I don't understand). I had thought of a couple of them but certainly not all of them. Well done!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dennis Peacock
    Thanks for reading.
    NO! Thank YOU for giving us a great review on a product many of us are interested in knowing more about. For instance, the LED alert lights were not something I was aware of and I think are a nice feature! I had also forgotten about the variable speed function. I had also never heard anyone referring to it as being quieter than most circular saws. See there...I got a LOT out of it! (Believe it or not, even us Cheeseheads can be trained!)

    One question I do have is: You mention taking the riving knife off for plunge cuts, which makes a lot of sense. But, how difficult a procedure is that?

    Thanks again for all the time and effort you've put into the review and I'm NOT saying that just due to the flack from the last one. I thought it was well done, too and told you so!
    Cheers,
    John K. Miliunas

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    A few questions.

    Great review again, but I feel compelled to ask.

    1) If someone gave you $159 for your Dewalt saw today, would you pay the extra to buy this saw tomorrow. (If yes, why) PS, I always ask people iwho review tools if the tool is worth the money no matter who the manufacturer is.

    2) Does the saw really collect all the dust? My table saw has overarm dust collection and downdraft dust collection and some dust still gets out. (especially when I do MDF)

    3) I have heard of people that bought this saw in conjunction with the FestoolTable and sold there table saw. Any comments.

    4) How nice is that blade that came with it, it looks like my WWII from a distance.


    I like your ideas on the screws, I have had that complaint on other tools.
    Last edited by Jack Diemer; 10-25-2004 at 10:12 PM.
    If at 1st you don't succeed, go back to the lumberyard and get some more wood.

  8. #8
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    Dennis,

    Great job on the write up. You included most of the ideas that we discussed. All that I can add is that I was very impressed with the plunge cut concept. This required downward push eliminates the concern of guiderail flex. These is no need to place lateral pressure to keep the saw against the guide rail as there is with my home made guide or clamp and tool guide. This coupled with the nonslip gripper strips on the guide makes long guides stable and usable. I would have liked to have tested it on some wide rough cut boards. If the guide rail does not slip there then you have an easy to create a straight edge on rough lumber. Other than that I would only be echoing what Dennis already stated. I had many of the same responses. A couple of point bear repeating as they really seem out of place on a $$$$ cir saw. The stamped steel base plate was the first thing that I noticed. It seems to work fine but anyone that has dropped a Cir saw on a concrete floor know that a steel base plate is never the same after that. I would like to see an Al extrusion or something more comparable with high en conventional Cir saws. That bevel gauge is the weakest part of the saw in my opinion not up to Festool standards by any means. Let me give a little of the small shop perspective for those of us who do not have 1000 sf + shops. This saw is very expensive when compared with other cir saws but cheap when compared to panel saw and sliding tables. Would it replace these for everyone, doubtful, but in the small shop it has the advantage of taking up no floor space when not in use. Overall I think this tool would be a useful addition to my shop but I am going to wait and see if any of the suggested improvements make into future generations. Thanks again Dennis for including me. I had a great time. I did get grounded for staying out past curfew but should be regaining some privileges soon, if I can just watch what I say. Thanks for letting me add my $.02
    Joe

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Meazle
    Dennis,

    ...
    I would have liked to have tested it on some wide rough cut boards. If the guide rail does not slip there then you have an easy to create a straight edge on rough lumber.
    ...
    Joe, I did use the saw quite a bit on wide rough cut boards and was very happy with the result. See the thread: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=12900

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    Very nice review, Dennis. I'm looking even more forward to using mine quite often!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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    Frank,

    Thanks, The rail did a great job on ply but I was unsure about any slipping on a rough surface. It does ssem that it would be simpler to use the Guide rail instead of some type of saw carrage for the TS.
    Joe
    Last edited by Joe Meazle; 10-25-2004 at 11:33 PM.

  12. #12
    Dennis, thanks for the reviews. I appreciate reviews because I mostly base my tool purchases on OPE. (Other Peoples Experiences)

    It seems to me that Festool is the rave to own right now. So far what I see is that Festool makes nice "ergonomic" and thoughtful tools. I like the ideas on the ATF55 such as plunge cut, riving knife, and guide rail. I'm sure it makes life easier (compared to generic CS). Is there a system for making repeated rip cuts at the same width? (such as setting a fence on TS)

    And somewhat related.... Are you guys buying Festool tools for their superb quality and dust collection, popularity, or because of deals (if there are any) to acquire them at a reasonable cost? Dennis, does this tool replace your DeWalt CS, or is it a demo/promotion? In general, what is it that makes Festool tools desireable to own (over Brand X)? Or is this like comparing a Geo to Porches? Is Festool even in the same class as DW, PC or Delta? It's hard for me to compare when the only place I know to see one is on the internet. I'd love to own Festool tools due to their portablility and Dust extractor, but I can't justify the cost. (I'm not trying to talk bad about the cost of festool) But if it is really worth the cost, I'll ante up. (my wife shot me down when I showed her the price of the Rotex and Dust extractor I wanted. To me this is worth it if there is little to no dust as claimed)

    I can't wait until the WW show next month so I can see firsthand what the Festool buzz is all about. Remember, this is just MY opinion, but comments as a hobbyist, Festool is not affordable. For my needs, this saw may not be practical. However, I think I will save up for the sander anyway...

  13. #13
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    Don't forget that if you need the extra security of clamps for the guide, they are available (actually made by Bessey for Festool) to slide into the channel on the bottom of the guide rails and securely fix the guide on objects that you are concerned with the guide sliding, such as on some rough or irregular surfaces. Because of their design, these clams, which are simliar to the light-duty Tradesman clamps with a special "nose", do not interfere with the top of the guide rail--they are used entirely under it.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Mann
    First, thanks Dennis, for the review. Once again we seem to see the same things, but I don't understand item 6. I also have a Phillips head screw in the depth adjustment but I believe it is there to just hold the adjuster together as all I need to do is push the adjuster in against the spring pressure and move the stop along the arc until I get the setting I want. Couldn't be easier and requires no tool. Try it and see if you can make it function that way. I think this makes it one of the best feature of the saw. Thanks again for the time you are putting into these reviews.

    Greg
    Greg,

    I have made that correction in my review as well as the Overload (red led) rating of the saw. Thanks for your input.
    Thanks & Happy Wood Chips,
    Dennis -
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack Diemer
    Great review again, but I feel compelled to ask.

    1) If someone gave you $159 for your Dewalt saw today, would you pay the extra to buy this saw tomorrow. (If yes, why) PS, I always ask people iwho review tools if the tool is worth the money no matter who the manufacturer is.

    2) Does the saw really collect all the dust? My table saw has overarm dust collection and downdraft dust collection and some dust still gets out. (especially when I do MDF)

    3) I have heard of people that bought this saw in conjunction with the FestoolTable and sold there table saw. Any comments.

    4) How nice is that blade that came with it, it looks like my WWII from a distance.


    I like your ideas on the screws, I have had that complaint on other tools.
    Jack,

    Allow me to be both open and honest here.

    Answers:
    1. I would if I had the difference in money to make up the total purchase price. The only real thing I would be cautious of is the saw plate. I've dropped my DeWalt off the roof of a couple of houses, dropped it on the concrete a few times and it has also fell out of the back of my old truck (when I had one) a time or two and the aluminum plate is still in the best of shape.

    2. Collect ALL the dust....well no....it does collect about 99% of the dust and leave just a few fine pieces that escapes the saw guard during the cut. More on this when I post about the guiderails. Take a good look at the last pic I posted. That's all the dust from 2 full cuts on 3/4" plywood.

    3. I don't have the Festool Table. Without that I can't really say. But I would prefer to honestly keep my TS for dado and multiple, same size cuts.

    4. Its a great blade. It's not a WWII. It is Festool's blade that came on the saw and cuts are nearly glass smooth when you used the guiderail.
    Thanks & Happy Wood Chips,
    Dennis -
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