I bought a shaper...sort of. Can you help?

[Jim Rimmer]

Don't know much about shapers and shaper fences but I would think you could mount a fence on it. I had mounted a Delta T2 on my Craftsman TS (before the motor burned up) and you could probably mount one on this shaper with a little modification. I'm in the process of trying to convert my old TS table into a router table. If I am not successful, I will have a T2 for sale.

[Dave Cav]

You might try this fence.
http://www.accuramachinetools.com/ne...nce-assem.html

It's sold on Ebay and a few other places. Sold as a sort of universal replacement shaper fence. I am considering one to replace the stock 80s vintage fence on my Delta shaper. I would like to talk to someone that does have one, though.

If you just use your shaper as a "souped up router table" you are really wasting the potential of your machine. A shaper can do a LOT of stuff better than a router table, but it has a VERY steep learning curve. You might consider getting a couple of books on shaper operation and giving it a try with regular shaper cutters. A good way to get a lot of profiles relatively cheap is with one of these:
http://www.toolstoday.com/p-5502-pro...rter-sets.aspx

CMT also makes a set just like it and their cutters are interchangable. The cutters are a lot cheaper than carbide shaper cutters and should be fine for a hobby shop. They can also be resharpened.

[Nathan Conner]

Hey, Dave. Great info. Both of those look like good starters, and not too much of an investment. I have a book ready to order from Amazon, as soon as I get the machine running.

So, I wired it up and plugged it in. I made sure everything was free and moving and fired it up. I immediately saw that I was letting the smoke out of the belt. Oops. A little machine oil and some reefing on the spindle, and it finally let go and was REALLY free and moving. When I fired it back up, it hummed right along. Fast, quiet, really seemed to be moving perfectly.

When I went to shut it down after about 20 seconds, however, I think I made a mistake. I had it running with the large main nut finger tight on the spindle threads. No spindle in it. As it was spinning down, (about 1/3 speed, or 2000 RPMs) what I think happened was that bolt caught and snugged itself tight, because there was a *CLUNK* and the spindle carrier immediately stopped - like a brake had been engaged.

Now...nothing. It won't start again. I can't get that bolt off to save my life. I tried some wrenching oil, tapping on the monstrous cylindrical wrench with a hammer, and then a breaker bar, which immediately tried to snap off the wrench's T-handle.

Is that what happened? Did this guy just snug itself to a halt? The motor still wants to run, but the spindle won't turn and that nut is down TIGHT. I'm guessing an air hammer or heat or something will get it loose, but it will take some serious work.

[Chip Lindley]

Nathan, trying to follow the narrative of your experience, I am surmizing you were running the machine without a spindle in the bearing cartridge. The big socket-head bolt that comes up from the bottom of the cartridge, locked and froze solid. If memory serves, the bolt is left-hand threaded. The spindle shaft will not turn probably because the locking knob stud became engaged in the shaft. Look or feel inside the access door, on the spindle housing, for a round, knurled knob that pulls out under spring pressure. Pulling out and 1/2 twist will Unlock so the pulley shaft will turn freely. That lock knob is engaged to lock the shaft for changing cutters OR changing to different size spindles.

I have a similar '90's Woodtek 3hp shaper which is a very nice machine. Even smoother than my old Powermatic 26. You got a nice Tilting Spindle Gloat there! And hopefully still undamaged after your mishap. GOOD Luck!

[Nathan Conner]

Hey, that is, funny enough, EXACTLY what I saw in there before I started it up. Luckily, I read all 5 pages of the manual front to back before I fired it up. (Don't take away my man-card, I rarely read manuals...promise!)

So, yeah, the locking stud is marked by a large bright red handle, and I was careful about pulling it out, turning it 90, and seeing it unlock, then releasing it a few times just to make sure I had the hang of it. I was able to get it to lock in just fine and unlock before I ever powered it on.

What I noticed, though, is that when I locked it, and tightened down the big spindle nut, that I couldn't UNlock it. The thing wouldn't budge (pull out in order to turn) after using the wrench to torque down that nut. So, I backed the nut off enough that I could unlock it (which was about finger tight) before I fired it up the first time. It was certainly unlocked while running, and is now still free to turn, lock, unlock, even with the spindle frozen where it is.

I was fairly careful with the threading, too. Pretty sure this one was right-hand threaded, but when I was tapping on the wrench with the hammer, I did try backwards a few times, just in case I was wrong - no luck with that, either.

Great advice though. Thank you! I'll go give it another go later this morning and see if I can't break it loose. I'll keep my fingers crossed that I didn't damage it somehow. And I'll try again with a call to WWS to see if they have any tech support on the machine or any info on a fence so I don't have to re-tap the top for a new fence configuration. Yesterday's phone calls to them went unanswered.

[Rick DiNardo]

Nathan,
Check to see if the spindle lock (used to lock the spindle when loosening and tightening the nut) engaged while the motor was running.

[Nathan Conner]

Hey, Rick. Welcome to the creek!

And yeah, that was the first thing I checked. It still moves freely, doesn't seem to be locked. I replied in another post a bit earlier - it's not locked now, but when I had cranked the nut down before, I couldn't ever UNlock it until I loosened the nut up a bit. So, I don't know what's up with it.

Nice machine when it ran. Smooth and quiet. Now, I have to say, it IS quieter...

[Chip Lindley]

Nathan, I'm thinking the end of the locking stud broke off and is wedged in the slot or hole in the shaft. The rest of the lock knob operates as usual. Try removing the locking knob to see if the end is broken off. IF NOT Great! If so, disassembly of the spindle will follow to see what gives (or doesn't give) inside the housing.

I have never had to disassemble my Woodtek for bearings, etc., so I can't help you there. If your manual has exploded drawings of the shaper, you can see where every part is, and how how they fit together. Probably best attacked by turning the shaper upside down on plywood or cardboard to save the CI top. Knee pads are not optional

Meanwhile, hopefully WWS will have some information for you. Keep after them! Good Luck again!