Seeking Info on Aluminum Boat repair

[John alder]

I hope its ok to post this here.I have a 16 ft grumman aluminum bass boat 1993 that has leakage on bottom of hull due to electrolases and loose rivets.I have been using epoxy putty in a tube (the type you kneed to mix).Is there a better product out there?I dont want to weld and cant turn boat over or remove floor boards so all work has to be done lying under the hull.Thanks in advance for any help.

[Ian CJones]

Use Z-spar splash zone. It was made to patch oil rigs. Easy to mix, goes off under water, and you can make it smooth with water.


~Ian

[Randy J Dean]

I don't know the name of the stuff (maybe someone will read this that does) but I have used a patch that is green, about as big around and as long as a pencil and you apply it with a propane torch ... just kind of heat the area then melt the stuff onto it in a dobbing way with the torch.

I've patched a lot of loose rivets and small tears with it over the years.
I got what I had from my uncle and I think he got it off an oil rig but I've seen it for sale from Bass Pro Shops or Cabelas or a similar company.

Another way to tighten the rivets is to get a piece of steel shaft, maybe 2" diameter and 12 - 18" long, drill a dimple in one end that will nestle the head of the rivet and then peen the other end of the rivet while holding the shaft (in this case it acts like an anvil).
I had a real cheap, thin aluminum jon boat that I bought 2nd (or maybe 10th) hand that I often had to work on.

[John alder]

Thanks for the reply guys,the splash zone sounds like a go.I have to apply any fix I use upside down on my back with the boat above me so not sure about putting a tourch to it especially around areas that have started to oxidize.

[Andrew Jordan]

You can get the rivets redone by a competent boat repair shop - a lot easier than trying to do it yourself...

[Rob Hermann]

I have used that HTS2000 aluminum "welding" product with decent results on my pontoon boat before. Don't belive the hype about the strength and stuff but, small holes are easy and permanent fixes. You can use a regular old propane torch too. I had some holes and cracks and it easily fills up to about 1/8 or larger. I did it over my head too without too much trouble laying in the gravel driveway. Just wear your safety glasses!

[Patrick Grady]

I have had excellent results on small patches, bonds, and lap joints using Highside Red Epoxy which is a two part epoxy mix which is then heated (light propane heat works fine). This stuff is used for refrig evaporator repairs so it can withstand extreme temp variations. I have used it over the years for refrig work and on various small aluminum pieces and it is incredibly strong and durable and it also bonds aluminum to dissimilar metals. Surface preparation is critical with all aluminum brazing and epoxies and I have had good luck using West System 860 Aluminum two part surface etch. I do not have experience with oxidized hull repairs but I don't think I would trust an overcoat type filler that was not sealed in layers (for instance I would seal in and then overlay any type of hole repair with clean thin aluminum sheet). Also, I would not be shy about grinding away (careful with heat buildup) all punky surfaces because they can always be built back up once you get down to good substrate. Be creative about the rivets - perhaps make your own which can be inserted in an epoxy-soaked hole and then pounded to compression. Often welding supply houses are good sources of advice. Good luck and write back your results.