Where to buy lamp fittings, fixtures

[Jim Underwood]

I would like to turn a couple of lamp bases, and wondered where you would buy the stuff to put one together?

[Steve Schlumpf]

Jim - up here we have Menards - sort of a local Borg and they carry all the parts. Have to believe HD and Lowes would also.

Lots of parts available at Lowes: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...s&N=4294953127

[Michael E. Thompson]

I get mine same as Steve. However, don't go to the lamp section and buy the kits. Go to where all the outlets are and buy the switches and plugs individually. Then go to the wire section and buy lamp wire off the spool. It surprised me how much money it saved me. IIRC, about $4 savings per lamp.

Good luck.
Mike

[Jim Underwood]

Thanks for the nudge guys... I figured the big box stores carried this stuff, but I wondered if there were better or cheaper sources, so I asked.

When you say "switches and plugs" do you mean the light socket switch combo? And how do you make sure you get a good one? I've bought cheapos for repairs before and not been pleased AT ALL with the quality. stamped out crap. And what kind of plug do you get so it's not all clunky lookin? Do they make nicer plugs than the extension cord plugs?

I went looking (didn't take much) for how to make a lamp, and came across Lowes instructions here:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...MakeALamp.html
How does this tutorial strike you guys?

[Steve Schlumpf]

Jim - that tutorial covers everything you need to know. As far as quality of parts - you'll have to look around and see what is available but most of what I have seen (and used) have been really cheap stamped out stuff. Course, you could always use an old lamp and recycle the parts from it...

[Michael E. Thompson]

All I have ever used are the sockets you get at Lowe's and not had a problem. Just make sure it is an on/off switch, no three-way or for a multi-light string. Yes, the plugs are somewhat stylish, not big and clunky. IMO they are not great, but it they work. So what, people are looking at the lamp not which plug you decided to buy.

Also, have an idea as to what type of shade you will use, some shades don't use a harp.

[Jim Underwood]

One more question...

How do you handle where the cord comes out?

Do you route a rabbet across the bottom? Or drill a hole in the side?

[Michael E. Thompson]

I drill a hole in the side before turning as well as down the center. Its a lot cleaner than a rabbit and contains the wire. I will bore a larger hold in the bottom of the base to make snaking the wire much easier. Not very deep, just enough to access the hole drilled from the side.

I should note that in my last post about the on/off socket, there is nothing wrong with the others (3-way, etc) its just easy to get them mixed up. I typically use a push switch rather than the twist.

Mike

[Jim Underwood]

So you countersink the main axis hole for easy access? How about for the bottom nut?

Have you ever used a bezel or grommet around the side hole?

[Jeff Bratt]

If you can't find something you need at your local Borg - this place has a great selection of all kinds of lamp parts...

[David Walser]

So you countersink the main axis hole for easy access? How about for the bottom nut?

Have you ever used a bezel or grommet around the side hole?

Jim,

The bases I've made so far have been turned in two pieces -- (1) a long spindle with a tenon on the end that fits into a mortise turned into the (2) base. The base is turned in "face" or "bowl" orientation. I don't glue the two pieces together (so they can be dissembled for moving). On the bottom of the base, I drill/turn a large hole into which I drill a hole coming from the side for the lamp cord. The mortise "empties" into the large hole in the bottom of the base. I then use the nut on the threaded rod and a large washer to hold the two pieces together.

I've not used a grommet around the side hole. You could, but I think it would just draw your attention to the cord.

Here's a link to a thread that shows a sample of the lamp base parts before assembly. Unfortunately, I didn't take a picture of the underneath side of the base. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...highlight=lamp

[Michael E. Thompson]

So you countersink the main axis hole for easy access? How about for the bottom nut?

Have you ever used a bezel or grommet around the side hole?

Jim,

Typically, I do not run the brass tube the entire length of the lamp. I am unsure if there is any code against that, but....

I simply use a short section of tube and glue it in place leaving enough thread to secure the socket. Between the glue and threads cutting into the wood (although not deep) it seems to hold very well.

Any one know if there is something wrong with this method?

Mike

[Jeff Bower]

My parents have been using a pair of walnut lamps my grandpa turned for over 30 years with no brass tube in it. No problems, that's proof enough for me.

[Michael E. Thompson]

My parents have been using a pair of walnut lamps my grandpa turned for over 30 years with no brass tube in it. No problems, that's proof enough for me.

I didn't think there would be a problem, but you never know.

Thanks
Mike

[Jeff Bratt]

As far as I know, the lamp cord itself does not need to be enclosed as it runs through a lamp, just make sure there are no sharp edges that could cut the insulation. However, any place where you make electrical connections should be enclosed by non-flammable material - i.e. metal.