drilling pen blanks

[Darren Mullin]

I have read that it is easier to use the lathe for drilling pen blanks than a drill press. Does this require a 4 jaw chuck as well as a drill chuck. Could someone please help me out and let me know what I require in order to use the lathe as a drill. As well what speed would you use. Would it be different for different types of wood. Any and all help appreciated.

Darren

[Chris Stolicky]

I think "easier" is a matter up for argument. So far, I have only drilled blanks on the lathe if it was total accuracy I was after. Otherwise, I have a blank centering jig and use the drill press.

As far as drilling on the lathe, there are many ways it can be done. The most common way includes the use of a collet chuck on the head stock and a Jacobs (drill) chuck in the tail stock.

You mount the blank between centers and turn it round, at least one end to the size that will fit into the collet chuck. Once its round and the proper size, you mount it into the collet chuck. Put the properly sized drill bit into the Jacobs chuck, and drill at a rather slow speed and relieve it often - although it really depends on the material and type of wood.

Like I said, there are many ways, but the above is the most common (in my experience) and accurate way to do it.

[Radek Kowalski]

I use the lathe to drill pen blanks because I do not have a drill press. I mount the pen blank, one half at a time in my lathe chuck. In the tail stock I have a jacobs chuck with the proper drill bit. I center the end of the pen blank on the drill then tighten the chuck down. I usually drill at around 400-600 rpm.

I have drilled different kinds of wood like this, metals and plastics.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

IMO it's way "easier" to drill pen blanks in a drill press. The amount of times you'd relieve the bit, using that TS wheel slows the process way down. MUCH faster in a drill press. But, to get speed in a drill press, you'd need a blank drilling jig, or a table vise that has a V-notch so you can actually hold the blank vertically.

The lathe will certainly be more accurate, but you would need both the TS drill chuck and some form of chuck to hold the blank.

If you have a DP, make sure it has enough stroke to drill the blank in 1 pass. If you stop and move the blank up and re-drill, I found it makes a ridge almost every time, no matter how careful I am to not get the blank out of line. Same with the TS stroke I would assume, although the lathe will hold all the parts in alignment.

Just my $.02.

[David Walser]

...

If you have a DP, make sure it has enough stroke to drill the blank in 1 pass. If you stop and move the blank up and re-drill, I found it makes a ridge almost every time, no matter how careful I am to not get the blank out of line. Same with the TS stroke I would assume, although the lathe will hold all the parts in alignment.

...

I use a self-centering vise to hold pen blanks for drilling on the drill press. If the stroke is not long enough to drill the blank in one pass, I simply loosen the vise slightly and slide a block underneath the pen blank to raise it up enough to complete drilling. It's quick and, since I've not removed the blank from the vise (just raised it up an inch or so), it's avoids the ridge problem discussed above.

[Steve Knowlton]

I use a jorgenson clamp with a v groove cut in the clamp. works like a dream. i think lathe would be to slow for me.

[Dan Forman]

One advantage of having the blank in a collet chuck on the lathe is that it prevents "blowout" when the drill exits the blank (so long as the exit location is housed within the collet). It does take a bit longer to drill on the lathe, but as I don't do "production" work, I still use the lathe.

Dan

[Jim McFarland]

I prefer drilling on the lathe using 4 jaw chuck and Jacob's chuck in the tailstock. I do a lot of polyresin blanks and very important to keep the drill bit cool else I'll crack the blank. Likely just my perception, but it seems easier for me to drill a small amount, extract the bit, cool the bit with high speed air from a shop vacuum and drill some more. I could do similar with a drill press but would have to turn it off for the cooling the bit step. I drill at a fairly high speed of 1800 RPM -- IME I get a cleaner hole at this higher speed.. I don't notice a lot of difference in heat build-up versus slower speeds since I only drill a small amount at a time.

For 2 blank pens (e.g., Baron or Jr Gent) I always start drilling in the center band end to limit any chip-out waste where the blanks meet -- improves my chances of a good grain or swirl pattern match.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I use a DP to drill pen blanks. I always cut them longer and don't drill all the way thru and then cut them to length. I am not worried about being dead center on the blank because the lathe is to make it round.

[David Walser]

... I am not worried about being dead center on the blank because the lathe is to make it round.

In general that's true. The exception is when you're drilling a segmented blank (such as for a Celtic knot) and you want the segmentation to be centered on the pen.

[Bill Bulloch]

I drill my pen blanks on the lathe. I use Pin Jaws on my chuck and put the "square" blank in the chuck. I hold the drill bit in a jacob chuck in the tail stock. I am so lazy that I bought six Jacob Chucks from Harbor Frieght ($6.50 each), I keep the drill bits that I use most often chucked and ready to go.

[Darren Mullin]

Thanks for all the help. I am going to Lee Valley for a bowl turning course and a little shopping.