New Grizzly 1023SL

[Jim Riseborough]

I pick mine up tonight at the shipping depot. I hope its in good condition and sets up easily. I have an engine hoist to unload. Getting to the basement is the fun part. Might have to tear down a bit.

[Mike Cruz]

Scot, really nice saw, really nice job documenting the unpacking to assembly, really nice job telling the story. BUT, Kubota, c'mmon man! All your tools should be as green as your TS...even your tractor... Congrats.

[Don Morris]

Have had my 1023sl for years, I still love it. The Shop Fox fence is good enough for me. I'd rate it a 9 out of 10. I've had Grizzly delivery problems and they corrected them too. Enjoy.

[David Prince]

I got a G0690 last month. Shipping was fast, good shape, and set up was short and sweet. It took me longer to re-wire for 220. Saw is everything I expected and wouldn't hesitate going with Grizzly again.

[bob frost]

Scot, I am wondering if and what mechanism you used on the Mobile base to lower it to the floor after rolling it in place. If it does not lower to the floor it seems it would be unstable with just locking casters, despite the weight of the saw. I am looking at a G690 purchase and would also need a good Mobile Base. BTW , congrats on a fine looking saw!

[Scot Roberge]

Bob, I was asking the same questions serveral weeks ago and came here for advice. Here's the post:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...43752#poststop

Most of my ideas came from that post. My base does not lower to the floor. I think that the weight of the saw combined with the casters that lock wheels and swivels is going to be plenty stable for my use. A bigger concern with a four wheel design for your base is floor flatness. I found the the floor where my saw will spend most - if not all - of its time is not perfectly flat. The base flexed to take up some of the the uneveness, but not all. There is some slight movement if I put 50 lbs. or so on one corner of the saw table. I think the mobile base plan located here has a good idea:

http://benchmark.20m.com/tools/Unisa...esignGuide.pdf

Note the use of toggle clamps to take the weight off the casters. I am considering adding two of these to adjacent sides of my base. Then the toggle clamp nearest the caster that is "floating" over the low spot in the floor can be lowered to firm things up. Put one of these on each corner and you'd probably have as firm as base as you could ask for. The last time I looked Harbour Freight had the toggle clamps at a good price.

[Scot Roberge]

Went about fabricating a zero clearance insert for the Griz tonight. Noted the caution in the manual to make sure the blade clears the insert at full height and at full 45 degree tilt. I realized that the blade is way left of center in the factory insert. It has about 1/8" clearance in the insert slot to the left of the blade and over 3/8" clearance on the right. At full height the blades teeth only clear the left rear insert support by about 3/32". This strikes me as too close and it seems the blade should be centered in the factory insert's slot. Of course, the adjustment would require removing fence tube, rails, table wings, and table to move the trunion assembly over - then I'd have to redo all the adjustments. Opinions?

[James Combs]

Shawn, I wouldn't sweat light to moderate damage to the boxes... These machines are so heavily constructed that it would take some serious banging around to cause any real problems. Keep us updated on your setup. Be careful, take your time and do it right!

Like throwing them against a tree. I pickup my G0690 and within 3 miles proceeded to throw it out of my pickup and it slammed into a tree at about 40mph. As I note in a recent post there was surprisingly minimal damage. Yes it was major as far as operate-ability of the saw but nothing like what you would have expected. The front trunnion slide was cracked, the angle sector gear had some chipped teeth and amazingly the cabinet had one major dent created at the shipping strap mounting hole. If you haven't already, checkout my post. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=135780 for all the details.

Edit: Was not my intention to shanghai this thread, was just trying to confirm the durability and strong construction of Grizzly cabinet Saws. My apologies if it appeared like so.

[Steve Griffin]

Congrats Scot.

I love my 1023sl and fence, and was lucky to not have the slightest installation problem.

However, it had one thing that I couldn't stand--the cursor on the fence is the magnifying type. If you move your head back and forth while looking down, the hairline would move back and forth. Maybe they have changed this absurd design by now, but if not, I'm afraid your saw will cost another $3 plus shipping.

You'll definitely want a Beismeyer cursor from mikes tools

http://www.mikestools.com/B1352593-B...ce-Cursor.aspx

-Steve

[Scot Roberge]

Yeh, James, I saw your thread and sort of felt your pain. Glad the damage wasn't any worse. Hope you get your saw together real soon. Now that I've had some time to get comfortable with mine, I must say I am very happy with the quality of the saw. I'm sure you will be too . . . eventually!

[Scot Roberge]

Steve:

It doesn't take long to realize the fence cursor just won't do. I followed another thread here that had a picture of a shop built replacment. Hadn't gotten around to fabricating one myself . . . just grumble a little every time I have to measure and re-measure to set the fence. I had no idea a Beismeyer cursor would be a direct replacement . . . or that it could be had so cheaply. Thanks for pointing me toward the source!