Inlay with scroll saw tilt?

[travis howe]

I don't know why I didn't think of this... it's explained a little here in this article about tilting your scroll saw when you make your cuts on both pieces of stock so that you can get a tight fit.

I'm sure this is normal work, I'm a scroll saw newbie when it comes to this.

Is there any other articles out there that show this more in detail, books, video's etc? It sounds simple enough I just don't picture the entire workings of this.

Thanks all,
Travis

[mickey cassiba]

I don't know why I didn't think of this... it's explained a little here in this article about tilting your scroll saw when you make your cuts on both pieces of stock so that you can get a tight fit.

I'm sure this is normal work, I'm a scroll saw newbie when it comes to this.

Is there any other articles out there that show this more in detail, books, video's etc? It sounds simple enough I just don't picture the entire workings of this.

Thanks all,
Travis

Travis, what article? I'm also a SS newbie, and I am also interested in inlay work. You've got my curiosity up now.
Mickey

[John Terefenko]

http://video.google.com/videosearch?...+scroll+saw&um

There are so many videos on utube today you can just about find anything. Inlay work is quite easy using the scrollsaw. Go to scrolled inlay box part one. Just requires stacking and tilting the blade. Just think about it if you did not tilt the blade the kerf of the saw blade would allow the piece to just fall through. Tilting the blade left or right determines which way the inlay piece is inserted into the main piece. There are times you may want it to stand proud or to be recessed. You can also sand to be flush. Steve Good has a blog and is an accomplished scroller. Check it out and it will be obvious when seen it done. Hope you post some photos of the projects you are working on. Have a great day.

[travis howe]

sawdustersplace.com/MakeingInlayedBoxes/MakeingInlayedBoxes.HTM

[Greg Pettis]

The technique you describe is referred to as "double bevel" and is commonly used in marquetry. The board which will be the finished piece (background) will be marked on the finished surface with the design for the inlay or insert. The board which will provide the inlay is placed below the finished piece. Both boards are taped together and sawn in one pass using the drawing marked on the background to guide the scroll saw blade. When the cut is complete, separate the boards and remove the inlay from each. Insert the inlay piece from the bottom board into the top board. The purpose of setting an angle on the scroll saw is to establish a compression fit between the inlay and the background. Commercial veneers typically are between 1/32" and 1/40" thick. Using a 2.0 blade (reasonably fine) in the saw, an angle of about 20 degrees is a good starting point to get an inlay which wedges into the opening and ends up flush with the background. Again, using a 2.0 blade for resawn veneers 5/64" thick, an angle of 6 to 7 degrees will yeild a flush surface fit. Thicker materials, smaller angle on the cut. One of the best explainations I recieved was to think of the background as a wine bottle, the inlay as a cork. You want to cut the inlay larger than the background by the thickness of the scroll saw blade. As you cut around the design of the inlay, make sure the direction of your cut makes the inlay larger than the background.

Hard to explain in words, easy to understand in a demo. Take a couple of pieces of thin scrap, tape them together, draw you inlay design and cut it on the scroll saw. You will quickly see if you made the inlay (cork) larger than the background (bottle) - that is based on the direction of cut. You can then refine the angle to get a flush, raised or recessed fit.

[travis howe]

Greg, that was a great explanation... just need to get out there and play with it.

One thing I noted w/ your description and what was on the video is that you put the finished background on the top and the insert piece of the veneer on the bottom of the stack. Then you did the cut, took the bottom cut out and put it onto the top piece.

In the video the guy puts the insert on the top w/ the finish piece on the bottom, when the cut is complete he then simply pushes the insert into the new hole on the bottom finish piece.

In my head I'm thinking the results are the same except the finish piece would be flush or proud on the bottom instead of the top...or maybe opposite if your angle is off?

rt

[Greg Pettis]

Travis

For a single piece inlay, the results are essentially the same. With the inlay material on the top or bottom, the objective is still the same - to set the bevel such that the inlay fits into the background flush, proud or recessed as desired.

In marquetry work, instead of a single inlay, there are multiple inlays within the inlay - much more detail. For instance, using the dolphin example from the video, a marquetry approach would be to depict the lateral line, the lighter color belly, the ribs in the fins and the lighter or darker color of the edges of the fins and tail. Each of these additional details would be another piece of veneer - contrasting woods, grain direction changes etc. Accordingly, you need to see the background, the marquetry in process to determine exactly where the additional inlays will be placed - so you put the inlay material below the background.

[Dewey Torres]

Travis,
Good adivice above...sorry I have been gone a while but just play with it and you will get it!