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Thread: Mobile base for Grizzly 1023SL

  1. #1
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    Mobile base for Grizzly 1023SL

    OK, I've decided to order a Grizzly 1023SL. I've spent three nights reading every review and forum I could find . . . and I am trusting my hard earned cash to the almost unanimous positive comments made about this tool.

    What I can't seem to get a concensus on, is what mobile base to buy. I find mixed reviews on the Shop Fox G7314 from Grizzly . . . and similarly mixed reviews (and maximum weight specs) on HTC's products. This saw won't need to be moved often - or more than a few feet, so I just need a basic unit. Readily available choices I find inlude:

    Shop Fox G7314 from Grizzly, 700 lb. cap. - $69.95, plus shipping
    Shop Fox D2057 from Amazon, 700 lb. cap. - $75.80, free shipping
    HTC-2000 from Amazon, 400/500? lb. cap. - $65.56, free shipping

    Thoughts?

  2. #2
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    Misawa, Japan. Summers in Virginia.
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    Make one

    I have used HTC, Delta, and Shop Fox mobile bases. The best ones I have are the ones I made, usually out of 2by4s and full swing bearing and locking wheels.
    Most are just made of half-lap corners and wheels, then I bolt the tool to the base. The last base I made was for my new tablesaw. The added height of the base and wheels made the saw to high, so put in a plywood bottom and cantilevered the wheels out so that the saw was just a inch higher from sitting on the ground.
    For the longer bases, I find that three wheels work better than the four.
    Get good wheels, I have found that the cheap ones fall apart after a few years, whereas, good ones last much better.

  3. #3
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    Here's a thread with some mobile base ideas.

  4. #4
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    Welcome to SMC Scot, and congrats on your new saw.

    Sorry I don't have any useful advice about a mobile base for the saw, but thought I'd toss out the idea of sliding the front fence rail tube over to the right about 10" for extra rip capacity....being a left tilt saw, you shouldn't ever need the left side capacity. It was a pretty simple modification...simply loosen the 4 bolts that hold the rail to the angle bracket, leaven the angle bracket untouched and slide the rail tube over the distance of one bolt hole, re-install 3 of the 4 bolts (still plenty strong), and relocate (or replace) the tape measure. You'll now have ~ 36" rip instead of 26". It's literally 10 minutes or less. You can add support legs if you like but I don't think it's necessary.

    The saw doesn't come with a blade, and since it's end performance is only as good as the setup and blade choice you'll want to be sure to do a good job with both. A zero clearance insert is a good idea too...I like the phenolics for their rigidity. There's also an aftermarket riving knife available for that saw called the Bolt On Ripping Knife (B O R-K) from Walnutacrewoodworking.com. It's a pretty neat device made to retrofit traditional swing arm arbors...it sits in close proximity to the blade, and raises, lowers, and tilts with it.

    Good luck!


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  5. #5
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    The HTC2000 sucks. HTH. I try to make my own with all swivel casters.

  6. #6
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    Ive seen very few positive posts on the manufactured mobile bases... that could be a case of only the "squeeky wheels" posting, but I decided not to take the risk with my money... http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=115811

    Couldnt be happier - Im pretty sure I could stack 4 saws on my base and push them around the shop.
    Proud to Hate Michigan Athletics Since 1981

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  7. #7
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    Thanks for the help

    Heard some noise outside this AM. Came outside to find a friend had left me a nice stack of walnut. That was all the push I needed to place the order with Grizzly. 3-5 days!!!!

    Thanks Guy, Curt, Scott, Cary and Jason. Your recommendations, the thread to other mobile base info and some additional Googling has me convinced that a shop built base is the way to go. This was among the more interesing plans I found: http://benchmark.20m.com/tools/Unisa...esignGuide.pdf.

    Scott, I am totally with you on the importance of blade and zero clearance insert. I'll do a search for threads on SMC for suggestions for each. Made my own insert for the present saw out of 1/4" plywood. Needs to be beefier. Sending my Freud 50-tooth combo out for sharpening - but might just go ahead a pop for new blade for the Grizzly. Any suggestions are appreciated. Woodcraft in Atlanta has a 10% + 15% off sale this Friday. May have to make a trip . . .

    Another question: do your shop built mobile base designs that leave the tool's weight on locked casters leave the saw at all "wiggly"? Seems like solid floor contact would make a difference in solidity.

  8. #8
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    I have noticed some wiggle in the SES locking casters that Ive used - but not on my TS base.... haha, let me explain.
    I have several sets of the SES casters on various mobile bases (my TS, lunchbox planer, bandsaw, and router table). There is a tiny bit of wiggle room with these when locked, but not enough that its ever bothered me, and is comparable to what I can feel on more expensive sets that Ive had a chance to get my hands on (woodcraft). In fact the only place Ive ever noticed it is on my Planer's mobile base - and thats just when I get the handle cranking quickly for height changes. I dont notice any wiggle at all on my table saw or router table, so I have a feeling that the wiggle Ive noticed is due to A) the top heavy design of that particular base, and B) my cabinet wasnt 100% square so one wheel sits about a 16th off the ground...
    So to answer your real question: No. I dont have any wiggle or movement in my table saws' base. In fact I find that I rarely need to even lock the casters on my TS base - the Grizz cabinet saw is so heavy that it doesnt move the 4'' wheels unless I lean into it a bit. (I do lock them when cutting largish sheet goods just in case...)
    Proud to Hate Michigan Athletics Since 1981

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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scot Roberge View Post
    ...Scott, I am totally with you on the importance of blade and zero clearance insert. I'll do a search for threads on SMC for suggestions for each. Made my own insert for the present saw out of 1/4" plywood. Needs to be beefier. Sending my Freud 50-tooth combo out for sharpening - but might just go ahead a pop for new blade for the Grizzly. Any suggestions are appreciated. Woodcraft in Atlanta has a 10% + 15% off sale this Friday. May have to make a trip . . .

    ...
    If you prefer a combo/general purpose blade, find a deal on an Infinity Super General 010-044, Freud Fusion, Ridge Carbide TS2000 (Holbren $81 shipped w/SMC10 code), 30T or 40T WWII, Tenryu Gold Medal (watch the kerf width match with your splitter - 0.111"), Infinity Combomax 010-050 (~ $70), Amana Tools 50T 610504, DeWalt/Delta 50T 7640, Tenryu RS25550 (~ $45 from Holbren), DeWalt/Delta 7657 40T. All give glue ready results in a variety of situations. A dedicated ripper is always handy for thick stuff, and a Hi-ATB blade for ply/sheetgoods does a little better for those materials (Infinity 010-060/010-080, Freud LU80, Forrest Duraline, Amana Tools MB10-800).
    Last edited by scott spencer; 10-27-2009 at 5:13 AM.
    Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

  10. #10

    I've got the SF

    under my 1023 with the extension for the router table side table. I have to say the SF base moves just fine but in the 4 years I've had the saw I have moved it a grand total of - wait for it - 0 times. I'd probably have to buy a mobile base with stainless or brass wheels because I'm sure there's some corrosion on that mobile base's wheels by now. I just don't move the saw like I thought I might when I got it. I say be sure you really need this like you think. As little as I ever move it I could probably get away with just dragging it on the floor.

  11. #11
    I purchased the Shop Fox mobile base that is recommended for the 1023 TS. Had some problems with the casters but they were replaced without question. The 1023 is moved infrequently but is relatively easy, if I get a good purchase on the concrete floor with rubber soled shoes , plus the SF base has built-in screw down jacks which makes the base very stable.

    If I had to do over, would probably weld up my own since I could get the heavy duty swivel casters from Woodcraft that I use on my other equipment, except the BS which also uses a SF base. I can move my Powermatic 3520B lathe that has the WC casters, with one finger! The WC casters lock two ways and make moving a heavy tool very easy....excellent casters (looking forward to them going on sale soon...I need to make a base for my planer). I'm like a kid at Christmas about these casters!

    Note that although the SF base will move with the 1023 on board, it does so only in one direction since the rear (in my case) casters do not swivel. So side movement to re-locate the TS or BS laterally is accomplished by the strong arm means.

    Nice friend...make him something worthy the stack of 'nut.

  12. #12
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    That's lots of blade info . . .

    Thanks, Scott. What I am tooling up for is segmented turning. I suppose the blades with the best crosscut cababilities are the ones I should look at the hardest. The only decent blade I'ver ever used is the Freud 50T Combination my dad left me. I took it to a guy for resharpening yesterday (only one I could find within 1/2 hour drive). Don't expect it to be as good as when new, but figured I'd give the guy a chance. May let it go with my old saw for a few extra $.

    Looks like my Grizzly saw will be deliverd on Friday, so I won't be able to take advantage of the Woodcraft 15%+10% sale. Had not heard of Holbren. Their web site appears to be down right now, so will check later. What's the "SMC10 code" - a discount for Sawmill Creek members? Are there other such discounts I need to be aware of? . . . And finally, what's "010-050" - kerf thickness / number of teeth?

    Thanks.

  13. #13
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    Source for casters

    By SES, do you mean Stanley E. Smith Company? I have some "flea market" casters that I could use for the TS base, but I guess I should get something better. Anyone else have a preference for casters and a source you'd recommend?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scot Roberge View Post
    Thanks, Scott. What I am tooling up for is segmented turning. I suppose the blades with the best crosscut cababilities are the ones I should look at the hardest. The only decent blade I'ver ever used is the Freud 50T Combination my dad left me. I took it to a guy for resharpening yesterday (only one I could find within 1/2 hour drive). Don't expect it to be as good as when new, but figured I'd give the guy a chance. May let it go with my old saw for a few extra $.

    Looks like my Grizzly saw will be deliverd on Friday, so I won't be able to take advantage of the Woodcraft 15%+10% sale. Had not heard of Holbren. Their web site appears to be down right now, so will check later. What's the "SMC10 code" - a discount for Sawmill Creek members? Are there other such discounts I need to be aware of? . . . And finally, what's "010-050" - kerf thickness / number of teeth?

    Thanks.
    I don't do segmented turning, so am not very familiar with the specific needs for that. For a blade that crosscuts well, typically more teeth equates to cleaner cut if all other parameters are equal, but along with cleaner cut comes increased resistance, heat, and more tendency to burn, so there's no free lunch (never is!). Most crosscut blades have 60T - 80T, and either a standard angle ATB grind or a Hi-ATB grind for the lowest amount of tearout....Hi-ATB slices with less tearout but wears a bit faster...still fine for hobby volumes. Those mentioned earlier are good choices (Infinity 010-060/010-080, Freud LU80, Forrest Duraline, Amana Tools MB10-800), but you could also check out several standard ATB 60T blades that will crosscut well, and will also do a decent job of moderately thick ripping (also known as "cabinet makers" blades)...Amana Tools 610600, DeWalt/Delta 7646, DML Golden Eagle, Freud LU73.

    The Infinity 010-050 Combomax is a 50T ATB/R combination blade, similar to your Freud 50T, but instead of using a flat tooth raker at the front of those 5-tooth groupings, it uses a chamfered raker in the middle of the 5-tooth groupings, which tends to give it less tearout than a traditional ATB/R design. It's one of the best IMHO. The 010-050 is full kerf (~ 1/8")...the 010-150 Combomax "Lite" is thin kerf (~ 3/32").

    Holbren's been a great supplier IME...owned and operated by Brian Gumpper who frequents several wwing forums. He sells Whiteside and Holbren bits, Tenryu, Oshlun, and Ridge Carbide blades, jointer/planer knives, chisels, etc. Great personalized service, low/free s/h, very good pricing, and takes good care of his customer base. "SMC10" is the 10% discount code he extends to the SMC community....not sure of what other suppliers offer one here.
    Last edited by scott spencer; 10-29-2009 at 8:10 AM.
    Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scot Roberge View Post
    By SES, do you mean Stanley E. Smith Company? I have some "flea market" casters that I could use for the TS base, but I guess I should get something better. Anyone else have a preference for casters and a source you'd recommend?
    Yes - I buy my casters from the Stanley E Smith company off of Ebay. Very good bang for the buck, in my opinion. They're very comparable to the woodcraft double locking ones, and light years better than anything from HF/BORG.
    If you'd like something a bit more "trusted" (I read that as expensive) Ive read several glowing recommendations here on SMC for Great Lakes Caster.
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