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Thread: router dado jig

  1. #1
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    router dado jig

    I am getting ready to make a jig for dadoing with my router. I have seen quite a few in the various magazines, and I know some of you have probably made more than one.

    So, the question is...Which one works best? I want to build one that uses a flush trim bearing bit, that is adjustable for various thicknesses of wood, kind of like a dado-wiz.

    Thanks,
    Rick Potter

  2. #2
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    Raleigh, NC
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    I don't use a bearing bit, just a spiral bit with this one. Squeeze the fences to a sample or the real piece and rout away. This one is self-clamping and self-squaring. I can use a wedge to cut dados on an angle as well. Also, with this I can rout sliding DTs . I made 3; 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2".


  3. #3
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    My jig is similarly guided by the edge of the base against a fence -- just be sure to mark a spot on the edge of the base that is held against the fence in case the base is slightly out of round, which is frequently the case.

    Advantage -- you don't have to clean bearings all the time.

  4. #4
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    Thank you for the suggestions, guys.

    Rick Potter

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Potter View Post
    I am getting ready to make a jig for dadoing with my router. I have seen quite a few in the various magazines, and I know some of you have probably made more than one.

    So, the question is...Which one works best? I want to build one that uses a flush trim bearing bit, that is adjustable for various thicknesses of wood, kind of like a dado-wiz.

    Thanks,
    Rick Potter
    Rick,
    This one is custom build for my needs.
    Not for sale but you may like to get few ideas.

    Romeo likes it.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    The country known as Washington (a/k/a The State of Washington)
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    Another Router Dado Jig

    This is my version of a router dado jig. While it shares much in common with others dado jigs, I believe my modifications to the general design make it easier and quicker to use than most others. In part, this is because the jig does not require use of bar or pipe clamps. Instead, it uses four integral clamps.

    Using a simple book shelf as an example, the following steps are all you need to do to use it:

    1) Set your router for the depth of cut you desire. The bit must reach down past the jig (mine was made using 3/4" plywood) and into the wood to the depth you have chosen for your dados.

    2) Mark where you want your dados on the material you're using for shelf sides. You can mark just the left side of the dado, or mark both lines of your dados, but, if using just one mark, consider putting an X where material is to be removed, to reduce the chance of positioning mistakes. After marking the actual dados, there is no more measuring or marking required.

    [Actual jig set up]

    3) Set the jig on the the first shelf side, pushing it all the way back, so the front stop is against the shelf material. The right edge of the left board should be directly on the dado line you made, so the material to be removed is in the open area.

    4) Pull the back bar down against your board and tighten only the knob on the back left.

    5) Turn the front quick clamp until the jig is snug to the board and locked on the cut line. It doesn't take much pressure to secure the jig. This will be THE ONLY ADJUSTMENT for each future dado cut for this project.

    6) Set a piece of the shelf material, for which you are making the dado, in the center, then slide the right board against it and tighten the two knobs on the right front and back.

    7) Double check your alignment and, if the edge is aligned with your line, make your first dado cut using a pattern bit (bearing on top and which will ride on the jig) to produce a cut of the exact opening you set.

    8) Loosen the front clamp handle, move the jig to the next line, re-tighten the clamp handle and repeat you cut.


    Setting the depth of cut, marking for the cuts, double checking positions and initial set up (steps three through six) aside, using the jig only requires three steps (i.e., loosen the front handle, move to the next cut, re-tighten the handle).


    * The width of this jig provides a wide base for support of any router base.

    * When cutting 3/4" dados, I use a half inch pattern bit. Making the actual cut, I run the pattern bit up the left side and down on the right side. When critical, to avoid blow out, I back the bit into the ends, before starting my main cuts.

    * To avoid damaging the guide portion of the jig, I use a fixed base router, or pre-set my plunge router and lock it in position for the cut. I, then, rest the edge of the base on the jig, with the bit back from the guide, and move it into the guide, rather than dropping the bit into the guide area.

    * The pattern bit will remove a little of material from the front and back cross supports the first time you use it.

    * Since the jig relies on the actual dado position marks, "what you see is what you get."

    * When tightening the quick clamp, I've found only a little pressure is needed.


    [CONSTRUCTION]

    * My jig will handle material up to 24" wide. Of course, smaller or larger versions could also be made. Both the left and right guides-bases are 3/4" ply cut to 7-1/2" x 30". This provided ample rooms for clamps, without interfering with the router base.

    * My front and back stops are 2" deep by 16" wide and about 1-1/2" thick (two 3/4 inch pieces of ply glued face to face). Gluing two pieces of scrap ply together gave me ample room to drill for the quick clamp.

    * The jig uses four wood parts. Only the left support-guide and the front stop (in which the long handled clamp, or "quick clamp," is mounted) are permanently secured together [at ninety degrees to each other]. The back stop and the right support-guide float, or move, relative to the left guide and the front stop, to sandwich the material being cut, as well as to cradle the dado area.

    * All slots can be made by whatever means best works for the builder. Mine were made by drilling holes at each end of each slot, just large enough to accept a 1/4-20 bolt, then finishing by joining the holes using a table saw, then a jig saw to complete the last few inches.

    If desired, the back sides of each slot can have a second dado the width and depth of the bolt heads, to allow the bolt heads to recess into the jig and to stop them from turning when the knobs are turned. HOWEVER, then the heads might drag a bit when the back stop and right guide are moved into place. Since all the bolt heads are situated beyond the material being worked, this seems not necessary and just using a friction washer has proven sufficient.


    [CLAMPS]

    The top clamps are just 10-24 bolts, friction washers (on the bottom, at the bolt heads), and 10-24 knobs with large flat washers under them (on top).

    The quick clamp, on the front, is made from an inexpensive, six inch bar clamp. To make it: I removed used a drift punch to remove the swivel, keeping the pin for re-assembly; I cut the clamp, keeping only the threaded rod and the part it threaded through; and I ground the cut to make it "relatively" round.

    Before I permanently secured the left guide-base and front stop (ninety degrees to each other), I drilled the stop to for installation of the quick clamp. I did this on the side of the front stop normally resting against the material being worked. For alignment, I centered the holes in the thickness of the stop and what would be center of the left guide (presuming the left side of the stop was set flush with the left side of the guide-base), once installed.

    The first hole was just deep and wide enough to allow swivel of the bar clamp to recess fully into the stop. I then switched to another bit and, in the same hole, drilled deeper and just wide enough to accept the female threaded piece of the bar clamp. Last, and again in the same hole, I drilled a through hole just big enough to allow the threaded rod to pass through the wood and the female portion of the bar clamp. Once the threaded rod was through the wood and female portion of the clamp, I reattached the swivel head.

    A snug fit and the rough shape of the female threaded part helps stop it from turning, but epoxy could be added, to better secure it. The fit of mine is such that nothing more than pulling the female part into the stop using the handle has been necessary. Obviously, it's necessary to mount the female portion of the clamp to the inside of the jig so the female threaded part is pushed into the stop when the clamp is used.threaded part is pushed into the stop when the clamp is used.

    Dado Jig front.jpgDado Jig back.jpg

  7. #7
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    Kelly,

    A great answer to an oldie but goodie. That idea of the built in clamp is very original. You should submit it to a magazine before someone else does.

    Rick Potter

  8. #8
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    Better, But Not Good Enough, I Guess ;(

    I just got a letter back from Woodworkers Journal saying they aren't interested in it. Just submitted it to Fine Woodworking. We'll see how that one goes.

    I've seen some nice ones, but they all clamp from the bottom, at best, and I don't know if they are as easy to move from cut to cut as this one.

  9. #9
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    Central Illinois
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    Very ingenious design!

  10. #10
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    More Photos on Kelly's Dado Jig for the Router

    Because a few people inquired about the installation of the front clamp, I added a couple pictures I hope will clarify its installation and use.

    One photo shows the clamp recessed into the wood, another with the clamp out. The other two show the bar clamp I used. I just cut the round part, through which the threaded rod runs, from the part holding the bar and just kept the threaded sections.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #11
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    That one is purty and nearly qualifies as a work of art.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dino Makropoulos View Post
    Rick,
    This one is custom build for my needs.
    Not for sale but you may like to get few ideas.

    Romeo likes it.

  12. #12
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    Kelly,

    I have had great luck with Woodsmith/Shopnotes magazines. You might try them. My latest is in the current Woodsmith. Worth $150.

    Rick Potter

  13. #13
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    Rick, thanks for the lead. I'll give it a test drive.


    Quote Originally Posted by Rick Potter View Post
    Kelly,

    I have had great luck with Woodsmith/Shopnotes magazines. You might try them. My latest is in the current Woodsmith. Worth $150.

    Rick Potter

  14. #14
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    Mar 2012
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    Napa Valley, CA
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    Kelly---

    Very nice looking jig, but I have a question. It seems to me that the clamping action is "backwards." The clamp is pushing the material away from the registration surface (front stop) rather than snugging it up to that surface. Am I missing something?

  15. #15
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    Nope. Remember, you push the front stop against the material, then pull the back stop against it and lock that in place (on the left only). You are already snug and all the front clamp does is secure it to insure no movement. It doesn't take much pressure at all to secure it. Actually, far less than independent clamps require. I've never had a problem, but, if you put a caliper on it, you might be able to register a couple thousandths of movement, but if that's a problem, we probably shouldn't be working with wood.

    When I turn my front clamp, and if it were perfectly flush with the stop, it doesn't move but about 1/32", depending on if you actually pulled the back stop down. Presuming you cut your material straight, that's enough to allow you to move it to the next position.

    Finally, remember, the front clamp is in line with the back one.


    Quote Originally Posted by Kelly Craig View Post
    Rick, thanks for the lead. I'll give it a test drive.
    Last edited by Kelly Craig; 01-19-2014 at 7:36 PM.

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