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Thread: Toolhandles/Thompson tools

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Clayton, North Carolina
    Posts
    220
    Ron, sorry for the slow response. The only thing I used epoxy on was the skews and the depth drill. I drilled a pilot hole in the blank first then turned the handle around the pilot hole. When I drilled the hole for the gouge the bit followed the pilot hole.

    The stock I used for the handles was kiln dried about two or three years ago. I kept the stock in the house for a couple of weeks before I turned the handles. It is more humid in my unconditioned shop than in my house. That should help to maintain a snug fit. Hope this helps.

    Enjoy your new gouge. I really like mine. I also think that Doug Thompson is a great guy and I plan on buying more tools from him in the future.
    Eugene in NC

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Fort Collins, CO
    Posts
    946
    Oil finish on the handles? They're beautiful! Does the oversized knob on the butt ever bother you?

    I love all my Thompson tools, except the scrapers and skews do not fit standard sized handles. I have some Bosch, Oneway, and Kelton handles. I had to grind the square corners of the tang to get them in the handles. Anyone else have this problem?

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Fort Pierce, Florida
    Posts
    3,498
    I met Doug briefly at the NC symposium, and agree that he seems to be a real nice guy, and his tools are top notch (I bought my first two there, a bowl gouge and a spindle gouge - your collection already makes me jealous). Nice handles, but two suggestions - please don't take them as criticisms.

    First plumbing flare nuts make great ferules. They don't turn green like copper pipe and can be shaped with normal wood turning tools (or a file) to remove the flats. The internal threads help hold them in place.

    The second is a comment David J Marks made on his DIY show when he discussed making tool handles - make each one unique so that when it is sticking out of a pile of shavings, you can still tell which is which. Having a collection of Sorby tools drives that one home to me.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Chevy Chase, Maryland
    Posts
    2,484
    I agree with you and Marks that it is helpful to have a bunch of mutts so they are instantly recognizable. But I can imagine more organized types with wall mounted racks and such might be able to actually look at the blades to differentiate their tools, unlike mine which are often covered in shavings on the shelf under the lathe. ;-)

  5. #20
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    N. Olmsted, Ohio
    Posts
    355
    Quote Originally Posted by Jon McElwain View Post
    Oil finish on the handles? They're beautiful! Does the oversized knob on the butt ever bother you?

    I love all my Thompson tools, except the scrapers and skews do not fit standard sized handles. I have some Bosch, Oneway, and Kelton handles. I had to grind the square corners of the tang to get them in the handles. Anyone else have this problem?
    That's a catch 22 to leave the tang square or turn the tang round which I think would weaken it. The way it has to be done is knock the corners off on a grinder it doesn't take much. One day I'll sell them handled but it won't happen for a while.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Wimberley, Texas
    Posts
    2,828
    Quote Originally Posted by Thom Sturgill View Post
    First plumbing flare nuts make great ferules. They don't turn green like copper pipe and can be shaped with normal wood turning tools (or a file) to remove the flats.
    Steel conduit (EMT) also makes good ferrules. Inexpensive, can cut with hacksaw or tubing cutter and wirebrush the ends smooth.
    Last edited by Richard Madison; 11-05-2009 at 1:23 PM. Reason: spelin erorr
    Richard in Wimberley

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Chevy Chase, Maryland
    Posts
    2,484
    Would it be cost pohibititive to braze some more metal on before turning it round?

    I personally think the wood inserts solution (as shown on your handle making article) is fine. What about making some metal bits that can be epoxied on to the tang in much the way the wood bits are used in you article?

  8. #23
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    N. Olmsted, Ohio
    Posts
    355
    Sean, to braze a round sleave on the tools would be possible, you'll see things in the future that use bushings.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Summit, NJ
    Posts
    997
    I also spent some time on the phone with Doug Great guy. His tools are top notch, I gave some to a local high school I volunteer for and they haven't distroyed them yet, so I consider them well tourcher tested. Thoes are some nice looking handles, keep up the good work.
    -=Jason=-

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Fort Collins, CO
    Posts
    946
    Quote Originally Posted by Doug Thompson View Post
    That's a catch 22 to leave the tang square or turn the tang round which I think would weaken it. The way it has to be done is knock the corners off on a grinder it doesn't take much. One day I'll sell them handled but it won't happen for a while.
    Thanks for the reply! I love hearing from the guys making the tools to hear why and how they do things - one of the best parts of the Sawmill. I'll always go for the stronger construction - it always amazes me how much abuse a tool can take and not chip or break. Love the tools they're top notch, can't wait to see the handles.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    16
    The high vanadium content in Doug's tools mean they're esp good with abrasive timber or sand-encrusted bark and the like.

    They seem to keep cutting well beyond similar M2 tools before needing a refreshed edge.
    Cheers, Ern

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