shaker blanket chest

[Mark Carlson]

Finally done with this Shaker blanket chest.

Plans are from Fine Woodworking. I made the chest taller so it would fit under a window, at a height where the cats can easily see outside.

Made from alder from Wall Lumber. I ordered 3 20bft UPS bundles. Really good wood and fast delivery. Ordered on monday, and got wood on saturday in CA.

Dovetails on case were cut with a Keller dovetail jig. Drawer and base dovetails were cut with an akeda. My next project will be hand cut, I swear.

Finish is General Finishes, Arm-R-Seal and Seal-R-Cell. 4 coats in total.

Hinges are from Horton Brasses. These were the 4th set of hinges I ordered, and the ones I liked the most. Also the most expensive. I think I got the knobs from Horton also.

The stays are from Lee Valley. I also bought 4 sets of those from various venders. These are also very nice and easy to install.

~mark

[John Keeton]

Well done, Mark. The alder really finished out nicely, and I like the color. Great execution and workmanship - though I would have to say that, while I understand the need for the increased height to me it is not as pleasing as the lower style.

[Cody Colston]

Nice chest and it certainly looks "Shaker."

Question..how did you attach the molding on the lid ends where it is crossgrain to the lid? Are you worried about wood movement there?

[George Bregar]

Or the strapping on the inside of the top? Nice job, love the alder. Really love the dovetails.

[John Thompson]

Nice job Mark. I have access to all the alder I want but.. have never used it. Interesting that you got the alder from Wall up the road in N.C. and you are in CA. That's a note of praise for Steve W. in itself.. his prices and service.

I agree with John K. on the lower height but.... sometimes you have to cross the line to attain function. My lovely has a small female cat she loves and adores. If my wife told me to build it high enough so the cat can sit on top to view out the window... I would build it high enough that the cat can see out the window. Why you ask?

My wife loves and adores the cat... I love and adore my wife so.. peace and harmony over-ride form and balance.. the piece will be in my home and was not built as a show-piece of museum quality. Life is simple in Sarge's World!

I am also curious as Cody as to how you attached the molding? I am not proud and will let end grain show so I simply hand scrape my own moulding profiles on the edge of the top itself when I use moulding or profiles. I don't do high-end reproductions or modern where that is a major concern. So.. it is something I have not given a lot of careful thought to. So perhaps someone in the know (Cody.. you.. anyone..?) that does use moulding as you have done can give me a solution viable to movement in case I were to actually use it in the future..

But.. I love the chest.. understand the height and glad you explained why you went there as your wife is pleased and the cat is probably already taking advantage of your thought-fullness... So...my final question would be.... what's next?

Well done...

[Cody Colston]

John,

On the blanket chests I build, I usually put a breadboard end on the top and attach the molding to it. That way I don't have a crossgrain situation. Sometimes I'll use a frame and panel top for the same reason.

On the battens, I just use screws in elongated holes to allow movement.

I'm curious as to Mark's method because the top looks great with the molding.

[John Thompson]

John,

On the blanket chests I build, I usually put a breadboard end on the top and attach the molding to it. That way I don't have a crossgrain situation. Sometimes I'll use a frame and panel top for the same reason.

On the battens, I just use screws in elongated holes to allow movement.

I'm curious as to Mark's method because the top looks great with the molding.

Thanks for the explanation Cody, as strangely enough I have never run into the situation after all these years with the style work I do. But.. there is always tomorrow (I hope anyway.. ) and you never know what tomorrow might bring.

I have the bread board ends well covered... but have never given any thought to covering them with moldings as mine usually get a round-over or in one case I believe I chose a chamfer to soften the edge. So... who said an old dog can't learn a new trick?

Regards and off to the shop where a week old build awaits...

[Mark Carlson]

Hi,

Thanks for the comments.

I had the same worry about the height but I've grown to really like it. Its also a very traditional height. I found plenty of examples in this size and format although it doesn't seem to be done anymore.

The top molding is attached with sliding dovetail keys and only glued on the front corners at the miters. The keys themselves are screwed in and staggered, so the top is free to move back and forth. The vertical pieces that hide the end grain on the sides to the left and right of the drawers is also attached with sliding dovetail keys. The top front molding also overhangs about a 1/4 of an inch to allow for seasonal movement.

The battens are screwed into the top with elongated holes like cody does. I wasn't originally planing on using these but the top was ever so slightly bowed. The battens flattened the top so the molding would look good.

I had the same thought when I ordered alder from Steve Wall in NC. The alder was going from the Pacific Northwest to the south and back to the west coast. I had always heard good things about Wall Lumber and wanted to try it. Very good experience and will be ordering from them again.

What's next. I'm thinking about a chest of drawers and I want to try hand cut dovetails. I might fit something smaller in between.


~mark

[Brad Wood]

very nice. I really like alder. I think it has great grain, seems to be worked well, and best of all it is cheap

[Tom Godley]

Nice - I also like the alder.

Thanks for the post

[Bud Millis]

Great Job! What did you use for a finish?