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Thread: Plywood walls vs sheetrock

  1. #46
    how about 0sb coverd with sheetrock

    You get the best of both screwablity and a fire resitance with paintable surface

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Blue Bell, PA
    Posts
    3
    I used 3/8" plybead over 1/2" sheetrock for the walls. Used caulk on the sheetrock seams and tape on the walls. Used sheetrock for the ceiling and added 1x4 pine and caulk on the ceiling seams.

  3. #48
    Nice looking shop! Looks like a nice setting too.

    By the way, I went with OSB. Not much more expensive than drywall. As to looks, well eventually every square inch of wall space will be covered with jigs, clamps, shelves, cabinets, lumber and good junk.

    Here's to a smooth closing!
    Duane McGuire

  4. #49
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Northern Illinois
    Posts
    739
    When I finished out my shop a couple of years ago I decided to go with 7/16 beadboard. Instead of nails I screwed it to the walls so I can take if off if I need to change anything. It's a good thing I did, since I have had to pull off several panels to do electrical work.

    Where the shop is common to the house there is fire rated drywall behind the beadboard. This was a code issue and not optional. The 11 1/2 foot ceiling is drywall.

    Since the walls are greater than 8 feet I put the first sheet starting at the floor and used a 1X4 french cleat at the top of the sheet to cover the seam. This cleat is continuous around the shop.

    Then I rented a sprayer and 10 gallons of builders white semigloss paint later was done.
    Wood'N'Scout

  5. #50
    Quote Originally Posted by Paul Greathouse View Post
    One ceiling treatment I haven't seen in this thread is Vinyl Soffit, the common kind that looks like individual 3" wood panels. Its very light to handle, easy to install and can be taken down if necessary without destroying it. Down here in the south, you see it used alot for carport and porch ceilings.

    For the walls, I would go with either plywood for a smoother finish or OSB if you don't mind the rougher look. I was lucky enough to have several pine logs available. I had the logs sawed into 2X12's and 2X10's and installed them vertically on the walls after running 2X4 stripping for them to nail to. As others have said, it's good to be able to hang almost anything, almost anywhere.
    I second the soffit for the ceiling. I have built 4 shops (was transferred a lot in 37 years) and all of them have had the soffit panels for the ceiling. One good reason is I worked for (and retired from) Certainteed Corp. where one of the products they make is the triple four vertical panel. It can be used as that (vertical siding), but the main use is for soffits. Each time I bought it for a new shop, I got it at a good discount .

    I installed 1/2" J channel around the perimeter of the room and around the light fixtures. The panels come in 12 ft. lengths, so where I had to butt them end to end, I ran a double J (two J channels back to back). I then nailed up the soffit going perpendicular to the trusses and laid in the insulation batts as I went. It is bright white and does a great job of reflecting the light so it helps brighten up the room.

    I used OSB painted white for the walls and together they reflect enough light to help out these old eyes.

  6. Quote Originally Posted by Stephen Musial View Post
    My whole garage/shop is 1/2" OSB (and R-13 insulation) - no worries about where to hang anything.

    Someday it will have a drywall ceiling and insulation up there as well...

    I went with osb on mine also. So far I love it.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Robert Jones in NC; 09-25-2009 at 8:51 PM.

  7. #52
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Manistique, Michigan
    Posts
    1,266
    The old part of my shop is drywall (20 x 28). It is OK, but I hate finishing drywall. I also have a number of dings in the walls and ceiling. Since most of my rough work will now be done in the added area, I decided to go with 7/16 OSB. This area is 20 x 24, but I combined it with the old area as one room - no partition walls. It should be great when I get a cabinet job going - room to work on cabinets and work with sheets and rough cut lumber.

    I am painting OSB now. I am using Royal Stain Blocking primer, an acrylic latex. This stuff is really thick, but it seals so the black paint used in the writing on the OSB (smooth side). With the black paint sealed, it no longer bleeds through and does not show through the top coat paint. I tried the top coat on a wall tonight to make sure it covered and it cover nicely.

  8. #53
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Clardy View Post
    OSB here. Its a shop, not a house.
    That was exactly what I was thinking.

    Quote Originally Posted by Shawn Patel View Post
    Plywood can do everything OSB can, but looks a lot better.
    I think OSB looks better than plywood in a workshop. The grain of plywood is distracting.

    Quote Originally Posted by Donald Hofmann View Post
    Someday I may paint the walls- no, on second thought I like the look of wood in a wood shop.
    No paint on my OSB walls.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Delyster View Post
    ...... white tin ........ across the ceiling. works for me good lighting easy to take apart if you need to change anything wiring etc.
    I used white metal also. Although Mike didn't say it, I am sure he used screws to install it. That is why it is easy to take apart.



    There are several posts that mention finishing the drywall. Like Steve said; It's a shop not a house. If you want drywall, slap it on and forget it. If you are going to try to keep "pretty" walls, you will be patching all the holes you poke into it instead of woodworking. That is why I wouldn't consider drywall for the walls. I don't care about "pretty", plus holes in the walls are not a good thing. If it was an insurance/code issue, I would put the sheetrock under the OSB.

  9. #54
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Atlanta, GA
    Posts
    5,879
    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    .........I'd go with Plywood.....
    Yeah, me too. I put 3/8" ply (whatever's cheapest at Borg) on the walls wherever I would want to hang tools, then slap a couple coats of the age-old spar-BLO-turp varnish on it. I can put stuff on it and move stuff wherever my mood takes me, with just some wood screws. Of course, after a few years looks like 12ga buckshot hit the walls from the screw holes, but I don't mind, and anyone else doesn't matter. I just like the versatility and strength of the attachment.

  10. #55
    Im smack in the middle of hanging plywood myself. I got a great deal on it so I couldnt pass it up. My vote is ply or osb.

  11. #56
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    35 miles NW of Canon City, CO
    Posts
    28

    I am using OSB, got it off of Craigslist

    I am still in the process of putting in a 1/2" OSB lining to a 30x42 pole building. At this point I am not going to paint it, but who knows that may change in the future. You can see the process of the work at: http://patcaulfield.blogspot.com/200...but-first.html

    Hopefully, I will get it done in the next couple of weeks. I am doing this by myself, and the balancing of sheets (~50#) on my head while attempting to drive a screw was pretty comical. I finally relented and borrowed a sheetrock lift, which has made a big difference.

    I am also installing flourescent fixtures while doing this. I purchased the OSB and fixtures off of Craigslist. Got the OSB for $3/board and the three tube com'l fixtures for $12/piece including the tubes. I am always amazed at what can be picked up on CL.

    The wood smell in the shop is wonderful, I hope it lasts a while.

    My next shop project is going to be a workshop wood heater. I see these advertised in the UK for burning cutoffs and sawbust, but I can't seem to find them over here.

    Pat Caulfield
    Colorado

  12. #57
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Bangor, PA
    Posts
    1,852
    I forgot what I used on my shop and the walls are so covered with clamps, jigs, patterns and other assorted paraphernalia, i decided to move some stuff aside and look. Yup! Sure enough under the congestion there is sheet rock. I always wished I had made the shop rustic feeling instead of modern. I think wainscoting and double hung windows with a wooden floor. Then I remember how dust fines attach themselves to my smooth painted ceiling and walls and how little time it requires to brush it off and I am very happy I chose as smooth a wall surface as possible. Whatever you choose, make sure the texture is not conducive to holding dust. The best dust collector in the world will not keep fine dust from accumulating on the walls and ceiling over time.
    butch

  13. Just came across an old thread about "plywood vs. drywall" for garage walls. I'm putting up a wall to divide my 3 car garage into 2/3 - 1/3; 2/3 will be for a woodshop. The door from the house enters the "1/3" area. Deciding on plywood vs. drywall for the wall, and the contractor told me that using plywood on the "shop side" isn't a great idea because dust will get through the seams between plywood sheets. He says that to prevent this you'd have to use caulk or tape, which would look terrible. Is he correct? (He wants to do drywall over plywood, which would look the best, let me put things on the wall anywhere I want, and would be the most expensive option. (The side of the wall facing the house will be drywall over studs). Thanks, Howard

  14. #59
    He is right about some dust could get through with out tape or caulk. So I would use caulk. Stuff can be hung on drywall
    or plywood. Refuse to look at his wall paper samples !

  15. #60
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    4,015
    I would hate to have to remove a sheet of plywood nailed as a shear wall. I would be hundreds of nails to remove. I believe current code is 2" spacing on the edge. Still one per foot in the field?
    Bill D

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