How to make a flag case with one board....

[Ed Sallee]

I am currently working on a flag case and the simple, triangle design was requested as the widow does not (as expected) have a lot of room to hang anything more on the wall. The flag case is 1/2" thick with a 1/4" thick liner - this technique was used in lieu of rabbets and/or grooves for the glass and the back. The liner can easily be removed as it is three pieces and will not be glued together.

Here's a picture of the One Board....



This flag case is for a childhood friend of mine's father who was a veteran and recently passed. "Tiny" Brandt lived two doors down from me in the small town I grew up in.

I started out with one piece of cherry - 76" x 9" x 15/16" thick. Maybe a little longer, but that was the trimmed up size that I was working with.

I ripped off 3-1/2" slice, 76" long and planed it down to 1/2" This will yield 2 sides at 18-1/4" and 1 base at 24-13/32" by 3-3/8" wide. I used the scrap as test pieces.

I then crosscut the remaining 5-3/8" piece to two pieces of 38". I then resawed and planed one of the lengths in to two 1/4" thick boards. And then I re-sawed and planed the remaining board to yield on 3/8" board and one 1/8" board.



I then dimensioned the pieces as follows, one inch more than the finished size:

The dims will be thickness, length then width.

Sides: 1/2" x 19-1/4" x 3-3/8" (two needed). Remember, the lengths are 1" more than the finished size.
Base: 1/2" x 25-13/32" x 3-3/8"

Liner Sides: 1/4" x 17-1/2" x 3-3/16" (two needed)
Liner Base: 1/4" x 23-11/16" x 3-3/16"

Front and Back Face Trim Sides: 3/8" x 19-1/4" x 3/4" (four needed)
Font and Back Face Trim Base: 3/8" x 24-11/16 x 3/4" (two needed)

Keep the 1/8" piece around for the splines....



Cut all of the pieces to size and at 45 degree angles. This flag case does not require 22-1/2 degree angles.

I got a little carried away before I stopped to take a picture. But, it's pretty straight forward to cut the splines and glue together.

Note: The splines on the bottom of the sides were lined up using a 45 degree gauge and lining up the cut using the spline that was already cut in the end of the base.

Then cut to size and glue the face frame on the face of the flag case.



Since the back face trim will not be glued on to the flag case - it will later be mounted with brass screws - It will be glued together apart from the case.

Trim all the pieces to fit and then glue together. Notice again all angles are 45 degrees.





Now you should have your main pieces for the flag case.

The outer case with the face frame attached, The liner and the back face frame. (I still have to drill the holes for the screws and do a lot of sanding)...



In this picture, you can see that the liner is mounted inside the flag case and the back face frame is lying down. Since the liner is removable, and the face frame is mounted - the glass will fit between the liner and the face frame. The back will then fit between the hardboard and the back face frame - which is mounted with screws for overall access.



And here are all the pieces loosley assembled.... I still have to drill the holes to mount the back face frame and do a lot of sanding.... mount the glass, etc... but, I have time to do so... I am taking with me on an upcoming trip to Mineesota, where I am originally from.



I hope I didn't bore anybody and I aplogize if the details are not quite clear....

I finished up early in the shop today and had the time to throw this together..... I hope it helps somebody out there to make a flag case for an honored veteran.

[Jim Rimmer]

Nice How-To post and good job on getting the most out of your wood.

[John Thompson]

Nice tutorial as I know you have built hundred of flag cases. I really like the flower in the Smirnoff bottle also.. nice touch.

Now.. how about getting down here and trimming 1/32" at a 22 1/2* degree angle off the top of these these tiny 3/8" x 3/8" x 1/4" deep ebony filler hole buttons for my computer desk-hutch Mr. Tiny Detail Man. I can barely see 1/32" and then have to trim the 22 1/2*.

Looks like a 22 1/2* shooting board with a block plane deal to me as I'm not quite as steady handed as I used to be.

Regards from down the street...

Sarge..

[Ed Sallee]

Actually..... that's a Stewart's Cream Soda bottle.... my wife brought it down to the shop for me on Father's Day....

[Ed Sallee]

Now.. how about getting down here and trimming 1/32" at a 22 1/2* degree angle off the top of these these tiny 3/8" x 3/8" x 1/4" deep ebony filler hole buttons for my computer desk-hutch Mr. Tiny Detail Man. I can barely see 1/32" and then have to trim the 22 1/2*.

Looks like a 22 1/2* shooting board with a block plane deal to me as I'm not quite as steady handed as I used to be.

Sarge....

I've done these before and what I did was use a piece of 3/8"x3/8" stock about 12" long and trimmed the end to the desired profile....then cut a 1/4" dado around, 1/8" deep about 1/8" or so from the bottom of the detail.... and then sliced the button off with the bandsaw. Much safer working with a long stick than the itty bitty piece...... If you need some of the 3/8 x 3/8 stock for ebony...give me a shout... I've got a bunch of it laying around. We can work something up.

[Lee Schierer]

What I like to do is mount the final fold of the flag on foam core board with pins so that the stars are perfectly aligned and centered on the triangle in the opening. It doesn't always work out that way when the flag is just folded.

[Ed Sallee]

What I like to do is mount the final fold of the flag on foam core board with pins so that the stars are perfectly aligned and centered on the triangle in the opening. It doesn't always work out that way when the flag is just folded.

That's a good idea.... provides some stability to the flag so that it doesn't "slump" over.....

Thanks for the tip!

[John Thompson]

As you know from our phone conversation this afternoon Ed.. I ripped a 3/8' x 3/8" from a 12" long ebony pen blank. Just kidding as I did them all with hand tools in this case. They're cut.. mounted and polished at this point

I should post the pictures next weel as I do have to let the wax cure for a few days before I transport upstairs in 3 pieces. This thing weighs over 200 pounds with desk-top-hutch assembled so I have designed it to be final assembled upstairs in place.

Regards...

Sarge..

[Ed Sallee]

Today, I did some finishing up.... sanded through to 220 all the way around.

I then took the bottom of the insert... and using my word processing program, selected an appropriate font, then typed up what I wanted to wood burn inside of the case.

I then transferred to the wood by using carbon paper and tracing over each letter. Making sure it was placed where I wanted it to be.

Note the index line marking the 1/2 way point on the paper. I also drew an index line on the wood to help ensure it was all lined up.




After I traced the information to the wood, I simply used the woodburner and traced over the marks left by the carbon paper.



I then assembled the flag case to double check the fit on everything and it seems to be just fine.

I destroyed a picture frame that my wife has been hanging on to in an attempt to cut the piece of glass that I need.... Of course, I messed it up and now I don't have the glass or the picture frame..... oh well, I'll find a piece of glass and try it again. My mistake was that I didn't clamp the straight edge and it wandered when I was scoring the glass....

Time for the finish and the glass.... I won't have a flag to put in it until I take it to Minnesota and hand deliver to my friend....

Also, if anybody wants the sketchup file for this flag case.... just drop me a PM with your email and I'll send it your way. The sketchup file will contain all the measurements. I tried to attach it to this post, but the file is too big.



And one more picture..... just cuz.... it's the 4th of July.

[gary Zimmel]

Thanks for taking the time do do the tutorial Ed.
Always pick up a little tid-bit from them.
I'm sure the family will appreciate the flag case.

And nice touch with the woodburning.