Molding Plane Questions

[David Myers]

I picked up the molding plane below this weekend. I'm hoping to probe the collective knowledge of those here in the cave on a few points.

-First nomenclature: I think this is a 'round' plane. Is that correct? Is it a simple one or are the bevels at the tips supposed to create a small rabbet?

-Sharpening: Looks like slipstones are the way to go, which do you guys use/recomend? Or do you use a different method?

-Using: Do you typically hold the plane with your hand behind the wedge/blade?

Thanks in advance,
David

[Robert Rozaieski]

Looks like what you have there is a very large side bead with a user added fence. The fence was not original to the plane.

Slipstones are indeed the way to go to sharpen 'er up.

[george wilson]

I agree with Robert. It is a late 19th.C. plane.

[David Keller NC]

It's definitely a side bead with a user-added fence. Theoretically, it's possible to use it as a "hollow" (hollows and rounds, unlik other wooden molding planes, are named for the shape of their sole rather than the shape of the molding that they cut). The issue would be that hollows are made to encompass 1/6th of a circle of a given diameter, and what you've got encompasses slightly less than half of the diameter of the side bead that it makes. It's therefore difficult to use as a hollow because there's not enough clearance in most cases.

Sharpening - if, when the blade's set to take a fine shaving, all of the entire width of the sole has a little bit of the blade poking up, then all you will need is a quick honing with a slipstone. If there's a portion of the sole where the blade is actually below the surface when the rest of its set to take a fine cut, the plane won't cut, or won't cut for more than a couple of shavings.

So re-profiling the blade will be necessary. One method for doing this is to wedge the iron to the front of the throat with a shim (and without the wedge in the plane) so that it's visible all the way across the width of the sole, and scribe a line with a scratch awl that follows the profile of the sole. If the iron's too dirty for this to be easily seen, you can use a sharpie to darken the iron with ink. Once you've this guide, you can shape the iron with coarse diamond files, ceramic files, or sometimes even metal files (if the plane iron's soft enough, which is often the case with wooden molders). Once the iron's profile matches the sole exactly, you simply sharpen and hone the bevel till it's sharp, replace the iron in the plane, set it (use a rubber or wooden hammer to seat the wedge - never a metal hammer), and away you go.

This sounds complicated, but it's actually quite easy once you get the hang of it.

[Matt Hankins]

Others may differ, but I was taught to never sharpen a profiled molding plane blade on the bevel side. All that is needed is to flatten the back on a stone. This will remove any burr and, if you think about it, sharpen the blade from the back. There is too much risk involved with honing the profile as far as changing its shape. So first try just flattening the back. Set the blade as David suggested, so that only a bit of the iron stands proud of the sole evenly. Use a mallet, not a hammer to adjust the blade. By the way to remove the blade hold the plane with the wedge inside of the web of your hand and give the rear of the plane a sharp rap. The plane will go forward and the wedge will stay in place. Don't let the iron fall out! This sharpening method should be enough to give you a quality cut. Only touch the beveled side if you need to change the profile. I wouldn't change the profile unless it is dramatically different than the sole.
If your right handed, hold the plane behind the wedge with you right hand and on the front with your left.

[David Myers]

Thanks to each of you for your help. Like many others here, I'm indebted to those of you who take the time to share your knowledge and expertise.