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Thread: Walnut Burl veneer finish

  1. #1
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    Walnut Burl veneer finish

    I am making a walnut burl veneer coffee/magazine table--and I have already vacume pressed the burl to a six foot long by two ft wide piece of 3/4 MDF. The veneer is from Joe Woodworker. Overall, with some minor problems, the pressing turned out well. The border of the table be be a mitered frame of solid walnut--about 1 inch wide.

    I have not used many finishes other than oil & wax--so I wanted to get some general inputs on how "you" would finish this piece. Ideas I've read go from using a grain filler to brush-on-laquer.

    thx for your input.

  2. #2
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    Depending on the degree of "hard use" you expect the table to see...
    a varnish is more durable than oil and or wax.

    Another option is garnet shellac, mixed fresh from flakes. The shellac is vary hard and easy to repair. It is not as durable as varnish but will protect a coffee table that is used with TLC, no wet/cold drinks without a coaster, etc.

    Please don't use poly on a walnut coffee table. Pick a quality non-poly varnish, they are harder than poly.
    Last edited by Scott Holmes; 06-15-2009 at 10:07 PM. Reason: forgot to say don't use poly on a walnut coffee table
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by J. Scott Holmes View Post
    Please don't use poly on a walnut coffee table. Pick a quality non-poly varnish, they are harder than poly.
    May I ask why?

  4. #4
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    I finish most everything with a BLO/spar varnish/turp mix. One part of each, mix, wipe on and build. For the top, I add a coat of blonde shellac followed by paste wax. I have end tables that are 15 years old and have had plenty of stuff spilled on them with no problems.
    Last edited by Stephen Musial; 06-16-2009 at 10:21 AM.

  5. #5
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    thx for the input.

    I definately wouldn't use oil/wax on this project, as people will be putting their feet/books/etc on it. I'm thinking of using shellac and pumice as a grain filler and then just boding up the piece with a topcoat of more shellac (i.e., french polish).

    My main concerns are the thin nature of the veneer, protecting it and the fact that it is walnut burl--which is very porous (and confuses me as to if I should fill the pores?). I'll try several options on test pieces.

  6. #6
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    Doug,

    I'm working on something very similar in my Tansu project. I'm using an oil/varnish blend called Velvit Oil (tinted a bit dark). I plan to wax it...I think...or maybe not!

    What kind of glue did you use?
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  7. #7
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    Hey Chris,

    I attached a pic of the walnut veneer (before I pressed it).

    6-15-09 012.jpg

    As to the glue, I used the CAT (from Joewoodworker)--which was a dark brown color so I didn't need to add dye to it. After pressing it (I used a mesh and topboard in the bag), there were beads all over the burl where the holes were--but these were real small holes--most of which I didn't know were there. I used a scraper to remove the beads--they came off easily. There are some larger holes that I will use colored epoxy on (or least that is my plan at this point).

  8. #8
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    Being a table top that sounds like it will get some abuse, I'd suggest a lacquer finish or if you want to maintain your usual finish, how about a piece of glass on top? Maybe even inset the glass by applying your solid walnut edging a tad proud. Just some thoughts....
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

  9. #9
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    I don't know how helpful this will be, but I'm pretty new too and have so far just been using Bush Oil for everything. I'm in the process of finishing a tabletop for a small walnut desk if you want to look at some in progress pics.

    Bill Bush makes a DVD to explain his system of finishing. The recommended method of dealing with open pore woods is to wet sand with more Bush Oil after the first two coats have been applied and cured.

    Best of luck with everything!

  10. #10
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    Sure here's my reasoning

    Quote Originally Posted by Maik Tobin View Post
    May I ask why?
    Poly is tough it, was designed for floors... Poly is a huge money maker; most polys are made from linseed oil. Linseed oil is cheap (compared with soya oil or tung oil) urethane resins are VERY CHEAP. Alkyd resin and phenolic resins are more expensive. This is why you don't see the quality varnishes at the big box stores.
    Think about it; how many $20/quart varnishes would they sell? when all the advertisers are telling us that the "polyurethane" is the best finish for every application and they sell it for a mear $12/qt. Phenolic resin varnishes are the best for outdoor applications they are VERY UV stable. Varnishes made with tung oil are the most waterproof of the varnishes. NONE are waterproof or water-vapor proof.

    READ THIS CAREFULLY long-oil varnishes (spar & marine) are softer and LESS waterproof or watervapor proof than the interior short-oil varnishes..

    Pros & Cons:

    Alkyd - very hard, very little color change
    Phenolic - very hard (harder than alkyd) yellows alot VERY UV stable.
    Urethane - very tough (not hard) yellows VERY susceptable UV damage.

    Soya oil - very light in color does not yellow
    Tung oil - lighter than BLO; darker than soya oil
    BLO - boiled linseed oil, darkest of the 3 oils used to make varnish, yellows the most

    Waterlox is one of the few varnishes made from phenolic resin and tung oil.

    Most "tung oil" finishes are misleading to say the least. Usually the only "tung oil" that, that is printed on the label. MARKETING (lies)
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  11. #11
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    Bush oil

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Kosmowski View Post
    I don't know how helpful this will be, but I'm pretty new too and have so far just been using Bush Oil for everything. I'm in the process of finishing a tabletop for a small walnut desk if you want to look at some in progress pics.

    Bill Bush makes a DVD to explain his system of finishing. The recommended method of dealing with open pore woods is to wet sand with more Bush Oil after the first two coats have been applied and cured.

    Best of luck with everything!
    Sounds like an excellent "Marketing" job. I noticed that he does list an MSDS sheet for his oil.

    Bet it's linseed, tung oil or a combination of the two.
    Second guess, an oil varnish/blend a.k.a. danish oil.

    Oil finishes are but one form of finish; they require the most up keep and provide the least protection. A wet glass will harm your oil finish.

    Don't be afraid to learn about the other finishes and when to use which finishes.

    As another more famous "Holmes" (Oliver Wendell) said..."
    A mind once streched by a new idea, can never return to it's original size."
    Scott

    Finishing is an 'Art & a Science'. Actually, it is a process. You must understand the properties and tendencies of the finish you are using. You must know the proper steps and techniques, then you must execute them properly.

  12. #12
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    I think we should have a sticky at the top of this forum for everyone to READ Bob Flexner's:

    Understanding Wood Finishing: How to Select and Apply the Right Finish

    You can either buy it or pick it up at the library. Either way, it is an excellent "bible" for understanding all the techniques used to "finish" wood. You'll quickly learn that all finishes available in the market fall into about 7 categories:

    wax, oil, shellac, lacquer, varnish, water-based, conversion

    Some of these can be mixed (oil/varnish blend, wiping varnish) and some can be applied on top of each other (lacquer over shellac) and some can't. It is all in Bob's book...GET IT, READ IT, LEARN IT, LOVE IT!
    Wood: a fickle medium....

    Did you know SMC is user supported? Please help.

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