M12v In Router Table-springs

[Ernie Kuhn]

OK Guys, Help
Will be installing M12V in router table. Familiar with, take springs out but, also came across an article said it didn't matter and springs in would cut any possibility of backlash in elevation adjustment.
Does it matter?
Thanks,
Ernie

[Ralph Steffey]

I did not remove mine it works fine for me the way it came.

[Todd Burch]

I did not remove mine.

However, I don't know if it's an M12V "thing" or a generic router "thing", but after a lot of routing MDF, the height adjustment sticks. So, I have to take the router out, take the base off, take the springs out, blow everything clean, then reassemble and reinstall.

Todd

[Aaron Montgomery]

I left mine in. I've noticed occasionally that it sticks going down - up isn't a problem as I've got a router raizer installed. It's not that big a deal at the moment.

[JayStPeter]

Took mine out. I use a plungelift with mine. Works great.

Jay

[Ed Falis]

I tried it with, without, and with only one in on the side of the plunge lock. The last seems best for me.

- Ed

[Ernie Kuhn]

Gentlemen,
First, thank you all for your input. The generosity of the folks here is why I'm here. I am inclined to initially follow Ralph, Todd, and Aaron e.g. leave the springs in. In part because I'm anxious to get it mounted. If I have trouble I will probably follow Jay or Ed and take them out. Again, I really appreciate your help and look forward to the time I might be able to contribute something as well.
Thanks guys,
Ernie

[Daniel Rabinovitz]

Ernie
I take the springs out
It makes it easier to set the height of the bit.
I "pop" the router out of the table to change bits and set the height initially.
Then when taking test cuts - I move the router up or down while it is in the table with the use of my hand under the motor and the elbow braced against my knee for leverage.
I previously used a TR12 and now use a "big" 7539 PC - hence the needed leverage for the big PC.
Also use a set of brass height bars for measurements in setting the height of the bit.
Daniel

[Bartee Lamar]

WoodShop Demo MV12 for router table

Note the part about putting tape over end of spring barrell to keep out dus.

[Ed Falis]

Thanks for posting that, Bartee. Sometimes it's a bit hard to find stuff on John's site.

- Ed

[JayStPeter]

Just a heads up. I planned an entire afternoon to make the mods to my M12V from John Lucas' site. Took all of 15 minutes. I think it took longer to read what he did than actually do it. I still haven't hooked up the control bars for the collet and plunge locks, but I did drill holes for them, so I'm ready . I can use the router entirely from outside the cabinet except for the plunge lock. I can manage to get my finger in there with the bent wrench to lock the collet.

Jay

[Ernie Kuhn]

Daniel,
If you are raising the router manually to set the height, you certainly don't need to fight spring pressure in addition to weight. I understand your removing the springs. I am planning on using the Router R Lift I bought about a year ago and think the springs should not increase the effort needed to crank the handle to raise the router. We'll see. I too have a couple of those brass height bars...bought at a wood working show.
Bartee, thanks for the tape tip, I had missed it on John's site. Hope Todd reads this, perhaps it might help his situation when routing MDF.
Again, thank you all. We'll see how this goes. Got to get busy with the cabinet.
Thanks again.
Ernie

[David Rose]

Ernie, I left the springs in my Dewalt 625. I think that is what the Router Raizer folks recommend on that router. The place where I see that it "might" matter is any time the bit might try to take the slack out of the mechanism by "climbing" into the wood. I use a lot of end mills with spiral fluting when they suit the job. These might try to climb under some conditions deepening the cut. Then again, the router weight might hold them down. The extra stress on the Raizer threads might accelerate wear, but it would still be slow. The increased tension is not that noticable.

Just something to think about...

David

OK Guys, Help
Will be installing M12V in router table. Familiar with, take springs out but, also came across an article said it didn't matter and springs in would cut any possibility of backlash in elevation adjustment.
Does it matter?
Thanks,
Ernie

[Ernie Kuhn]

David,
Appreciate your feedback. Although I wasn't particularly thinking about spiral cut end mills, I was a little concerned about the unit "jumping" if I hit a knot or something else. And the other issue for me was, any type of slack or back lash in the mechanism. The springs would keep the unit under constant tension. And, I really don't expect the Rout R Lift to crank too hard with the springs left in. We shall see.
Again, thanks for your input. By the way, I see Safety Stop is manufacturing their own saw. Hope our notes to the folks in DC had some effect. I expect I send another, asking for status.
Ernie

[David Rose]

Ernie,

I didn't really complete my thought on the end mills with the Router Raizer. The concern of mine was not that it would climb more than just enough to take out the slack in the lead screw. That would be enough with something like rail/stile bits or panel raisers to reck a little havoc and possibly create safety problems. The springs in do make the setup feel more rigid. I tried mine both ways when I first set it up and ended up with springs in.

The place where I do notice extra tension from the springs is when course adjusting with the table top tilted up. Raising it with the knob on the rod end is stiff. I use a cheap ratchet and small socket to fit the rod. The knob will lower it fine. From the top I like the fact that when you lower the router, it pulls down under tension. The weight might do that, but I'm not as secure about that.

I noticed the Saw Stop saws too. It made me wonder about the legislation. If you get any info start a "gentle" thread. Though there probably are some, I can't think of much of anything that destroys part of the product when a safety device is tripped. Well, with the exception of auto air bags...

David

David,
Appreciate your feedback. Although I wasn't particularly thinking about spiral cut end mills, I was a little concerned about the unit "jumping" if I hit a knot or something else. And the other issue for me was, any type of slack or back lash in the mechanism. The springs would keep the unit under constant tension. And, I really don't expect the Rout R Lift to crank too hard with the springs left in. We shall see.
Again, thanks for your input. By the way, I see Safety Stop is manufacturing their own saw. Hope our notes to the folks in DC had some effect. I expect I send another, asking for status.
Ernie