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Thread: 1" logo bleeding

  1. #1

    1" logo bleeding

    I have a logo that i am trying to engrave on a coated metal. The surface engaves very nice but the words in the logo are bleeding into each other. The logo is appx 1" in size. I have a 30w Laserpro C180 that i am running at 30% speed/ 75% power. Any thoughts??

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Junction City, Oregon
    Posts
    213
    Can you post of photo? I think that you need to increase the spacing to solve the bleeding but couldn't tell with out seeing what you are talking about.
    Sandee Force

    A few dollars spent contributing to SMC will save you hundreds of dollars in time and materials.

  3. #3
    1. Try increasing your speed and lowering your power.
    2. Try lowering your resolution.
    3. Should be first but check your focus.
    4. Check your optics for cleanliness.
    5. Check your graphic to be sure the problem isn't there.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  4. #4
    attached. first time i posted a picture here
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #5
    It looks to me like your lettering is actually anti-aliased bitmap, not vector or bezier lines. So the "smoothing" feature is engraving as a fuzzy outline. You need to trace the shapes to get a cleaner line.

    cheers, dee
    Epilog Mini 18/25w & 35w, Mac and Vaio, Corel x3, typical art toys, airbrush... I'm a Laserhead, my husband is a Neanderthal - go figure

    Red Coin Mah Jong

  6. #6
    Ouch Dee. I cant speak that language yet

  7. #7
    Joe, how was the image supplied to you? Was it a .jpg file? If so, that's what Dee is getting at. That format is not the right format for engraving in this situation. You'd need them to supply a file that is either an Adobe Illustrator file or an EPS file. You can import either of those and there's a great chance it's the program that it was originally created in.
    Lasers : Trotec Speedy 300 75W, Trotec Speedy 300 80W, Galvo Fiber Laser 20W
    Printers : Mimaki UJF-6042 UV Flatbed Printer , HP Designjet L26500 61" Wide Format Latex Printer, Summa S140-T 48" Vinyl Plotter
    Router : ShopBot 48" x 96" CNC Router Rotary Engravers : (2) Xenetech XOT 16 x 25 Rotary Engravers

    Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.

  8. #8

    to put it simply...

    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Baker View Post
    Ouch Dee. I cant speak that language yet
    Sorry Joe.

    Bitmap images are made up of small squares (dots/pixels). Each dot on your screen can be ON (black or color) or OFF (white or transparent). They make those jagged edges you see unless there is smoothing (anti-aliasing) done, which looks like lighter grey squares if you look at a close-up. jpegs are bitmaps. Paint and photo programs produce bitmaps also. Corel-PAINT is an example of this type of progam. Examples: jpg, tif, gif

    Line art images are made from straight lines and/or bezier curves (adjustable curved lines). This is known as "object oriented" art because each shape is a separate object which can be moved separately, sized/edited separately and grouped/ungrouped. Draw programs produce this kind of art; Corel-DRAW is an example of this type of program, also Illustrator, FreeHand. Examples: eps, cdr, ai

    Hope this helps to explain things a bit, dee
    Epilog Mini 18/25w & 35w, Mac and Vaio, Corel x3, typical art toys, airbrush... I'm a Laserhead, my husband is a Neanderthal - go figure

    Red Coin Mah Jong

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Victor, NY
    Posts
    1,288

    Image problem;

    Hi Joe;
    Dee nailed this one. Import your image into Corel and scale it way up. You will see that there are gray jaggies all over the place-which the laser sees even if you can't. It's only engraving what you gave it.
    Here's a quick trace which should be a lot better.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  10. #10
    This is my 10 cents worth
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Epilog Legend EXT 60w-Corel X4
    Skype me .

    There's a lot more good than evil,
    and there's a lot more joy than pain.

    "Yea, though I walk through the valley
    of the shadow of death,
    I will fear no evil:
    for thou art with me;
    thy rod and thy staff
    they comfort me."

  11. #11
    It does look like anti-aliasing but the sheer nature of photographing/scanning and posting an image online will introduce anti-aliasing to the image we're looking at. It could also be a problem with the coating melting into itself. We don't know what the coating is.
    I design, engineer and program all sorts of things.

    Oh, and I use Adobe Illustrator with an Epilog Mini.

  12. #12
    I just looked at my manual and they recommend the opposite settings for anodized and painted brass (100 speed/45 power), like Mike said. What is the metal coated with? That might give you some answers too.

    cheers, dee
    Epilog Mini 18/25w & 35w, Mac and Vaio, Corel x3, typical art toys, airbrush... I'm a Laserhead, my husband is a Neanderthal - go figure

    Red Coin Mah Jong

  13. #13
    its an anodized aluminum. I understand some of what you guys are saying. I use engravelab. I have used the attached image .gif. the image does show up in the software and it does not look as smooth as the .jpg images. If i understand you guys correctly that is a good thing?

    This is prob going to be a stupid question but i cant use a corel draw image in Engravelab correct? If i remember correct Dee, you use nothing but Engravelab
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #14
    Joe, that's not going to work. The image you are trying to use is not in the right format. It's possible to engrave gif's and jpegs, but they have to be the right size/quality for what you are engraving.

    In your case, I do not believe it is.

    You need the Illustrator, Corel, or other files that they were originally created in. Ask them for a EPS (3 letters, not one word). The person that created that should have the capability to do it in that format.

    You can then import it into Corel, or should be able to import into Engravelab and go to the printer from there.
    Lasers : Trotec Speedy 300 75W, Trotec Speedy 300 80W, Galvo Fiber Laser 20W
    Printers : Mimaki UJF-6042 UV Flatbed Printer , HP Designjet L26500 61" Wide Format Latex Printer, Summa S140-T 48" Vinyl Plotter
    Router : ShopBot 48" x 96" CNC Router Rotary Engravers : (2) Xenetech XOT 16 x 25 Rotary Engravers

    Real name Steve but that name was taken on the forum. Used Middle name. Call me Steve or Scott, doesn't matter.

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Baker View Post
    This is prob going to be a stupid question but i cant use a corel draw image in Engravelab correct? If i remember correct Dee, you use nothing but Engravelab
    Nope, sorry - I do not use Engravelab. I have PhotoGrav but I don't use that either. Maybe Engravelab has a "save as" feature?

    The web image you just posted would be a good one to practice your manual tracing on - no time like the present!

    Just make a line, convert to a curve and pull into shape. If you lock your image, you can draw right over it and it won't be a problem to you (moving around by accident). I posted a tracing tutorial here some time ago, which you can find with a search.

    cheers, dee
    Epilog Mini 18/25w & 35w, Mac and Vaio, Corel x3, typical art toys, airbrush... I'm a Laserhead, my husband is a Neanderthal - go figure

    Red Coin Mah Jong

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