how to ca finish?

[Chris Haas]

i am just starting in pens, i hear CA finish all the time. i just cant seem to find the steps on how to do it. it just doesnt make sense that you can put ca glue on a rag and hold it to a spinning pen and not get beat up. can someone give me the cliff notes on ca finishing. thanks guys

[Greg Ketell]

Here is a post I typed up last week on another forum. I hope it helps.
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You will need the following to do the Greg shine. No, not me Greg; Cozee Greg. I learned this from him. :
Nitrile gloves. Paper towels of your choice (I use viva select a size). Thin CA. Thick CA. Aerosol accelerator.

Rule number 1: always wear nitrile gloves or you may end up wearing your blank.

After you have finished your final sanding on the blank (I sand to 400 and then 0000 steel wool) you want it spinning on your lathe at slowest speed.

Rule 2: never put a dry paper towel in contact with your CA covered blank. It will very likely stick.

Fold your paper towel into 4ths. Add a few drops of thin CA to the corner of the paper towel and then hold it below the blank. Starting on one end dribble thin CA on the top of the spinning blank and soak up the excess on the bottom of the blank. Move across the blank until you come to the far end. You are going after a "damp" blank. Not soaking, not dry. Let it dry.

Rip off the corner of the paper towel and repeat so you have two coats of thin CA. This is your sealer coat so the thick CA will build on top.

Rip off the used corner. Same process except with Thick CA. Put 3-4 drops on the paper towel. Touch it to the bottom of the blank and add a few drops to keep the coat smooth and wet as you move across to the far end. The goal is a single, moist coat from one end to the other. You should be able to go back the other way ONCE if you have to. But ...

Rule 3: never more than 2 passes across the blank unless you want to sand paper towel off the blank.

Let it spin for 30 seconds or so and then hit it with a light mist of aerosol accelerator from about a foot away. The goal is just a little accelerator to accelerate the drying without causing it to flash off to white.

Rip off the corner and repeat. Do it over again until you have 3-4 full coats.

Now you have a nice thick coat of finish on it but it isn't all that good looking (depending on how well you applied it). But you KNOW that there is 4 coats of thick CA even at the lowest point. The trick is to get is sanded smooth without sanding through the finish at the low points.

Rule 4: Never do "rough sanding" without a hard sanding block.

Find a sanding block. Mine is a "double wide" pen blank. Choose your sand paper based on how smooth the blank turned out. I've gone as rough as 180 and now can usually start at 320 or 220 as I get better at applying the CA. Use your sandpaper with the sanding block to do the rough sanding. With the block you are assured of only taking the high spots down. Move the block across the blank as fast as you can so you get a "cross hatch" sanding pattern. Check frequently and keep going until you have a smooth, even finish across the blank. Once smooth and good, stop the lathe and sand the length of the blank with the sandpaper with no block until all the cross hatches are gone. At this point you have removed all the high points but stopped before you sanded through 4 layers at the bottom of the finish you applied.

Next finer level of sandpaper with sanding block. Crosshatch until you have nice even crosshatching. Stop, no block, lengthwise until the cross hatches are gone.

Repeat until you are down to 400 grit. Remove the blank from the lathe and end mill it (I recommend end-sanding so you don't risk chipping the finish but do what you have). Remount the blank and continue with 0000 steal wool. (From this point you can skip the sanding block. ) Try to hit the corners of the blank to remove that nice razor edge you just put on it. But VERY lightly or you will sand through.

Same deal with 4000 and 6000 MM wet sanding.

Dry the blank (I use an air compressor). Use buffing wheels and your favorite buffing polishes to get the final shine. Still, crosshatch followed by lengthwise. I use red rouge, white diamond, swirl remover.

Take the blank off and drool over it. Wipe it clean and assemble the pen. Apply a light coat of your favorite anti-static wax (I use Eagle1 auto wax) to the entire pen. Buff to final shine.

I hope this helps!!
GK

ps Rule whatever: once you start sanding the blank, never, ever touch with your bare hands until after the finishing is done. You will be tempted to feel just how smooth your blank is or to wipe off the saw dust but then you have body oil in some spots and not in others. Bad for finishing.

[Bill Bolen]

On the IAP site go to their library. Russ Fairfield has a nice video covering the subject. Several other authors covering the same topic are there as well...Bill..

[Mark Hix]

there are as many versions of the CA finish as there are turners....when you find one to try, practice it on scrap first. You can save alot of misery that way. I stared with Russ's video and then changed a couple of things one at a time and now use a slightly different technique. I elminated the MM, now after the finish, I buff on the beal system after the CA cures. You can't tell the difference.

[Allen Neighbors]

Chris - CA Finish for Pens – Not the only way, just my way. I use thin CA (Loctite Precision Max from Walmart) and Viva Paper Towels (Select-a-size). I don’t use accelerator, because it causes this brand of CA to look like Lacquer with mini orange peel, and that's probably because I don't know how to use it. [Small country town – no Woodcraft stores – hence, Walmart]
I turn the pens on a mandrel, with the appropriate bushings, and sand to 320/400 grit, then MicroMesh the last four, finer, grits. I blast air to blow away all grit between each grit. {I nearly always fill the pores in porous wood, by wet sanding with DO or something comparable, and buff at high speed with T-shirt material till dry.}
I fold the half-paper towel in half – three times – which leaves me with a strip about 1-1/4” x 6” (lays flat along two fingers).
With the lathe turning about 1000 rpm, I hold the paper towel with two fingers against the bottom of the pen tube; with the bottle of CA upside down over the top of the tube (not touching it), I squeeze a good stream of CA along the pen, moving the towel below. When I’ve covered this section of pen tube completely, I quickly make a couple of swipes back and forth (still at the bottom), and then move past the bushing to the second section/tube. Once I cross over the bushing, I don’t go back to the first section again (the towel will stick). I finish the second section of pen tube just like the first.
I wait for the CA to set – maybe 2-3 minutes (depending on temp/humidity) – then apply it again.
After 3 or 4 coats, I sand it again with the last four grits of Micromesh.
Then I apply 3 or 4 more coats of CA in the same manner. Then, I sand again, and then apply more, if necessary. I sand again, after the final coat, and then buff before I put the pen together. It doesn’t always, but most of the time, I want the pen to look like glass.
Like I said, this may not be the best way, but it’s my way, and I do get a lot of “Wow!” comments on my pen finishes. Try it, you might like it.

[robert hainstock]

for the Russ Fairfield method!
Bob

[Jim McFarland]

I like the Bill Young BLO/CA method. Go to youtube and search "WoodTurning BLO and CA Pen Finish" I seem to frequently get ridges in the finish using CA alone, but I don't have the problem using the method Bill outlines.

[Rick Gifford]

Here's some methods from my files. None of these are my work, just saved information for referrence. I know you are asking about CA finishing, but here is a CA/BLO method too. I have used Fangars method several times and use a modified version now. Here is the original one he posted:

FANGARS METHOD:

-1800 RPM-

Sand with 240, 320, and 400 Grit papers.

Wipe down with denatured alcohol (DNA)

Apply a thin sealer coat of Thin CA with 400 grit paper.

New sheet of 400 grit smooth out.

Wipe down with DNA.

MM through 12000 (DNA as needed between coats to remove sanding debris. Usually between each three of the MM.)

Two coats of Myland's cellulose sanding sealer.

MM last four grits through 12000 again.

DNA.

-Slow lathe to 500 Rpm. (or Slowest setting).-

Apply two coats thin CA with Costco Paper Shop towel. Air dry only between coats (NO ACCELERATOR).

Apply Two Coats of Thick CA, as smoothly as possible. Air dry between coats. (If you do need to use a light application of ACC, I wait at least 1 minute after each CA application, and only use the Aerosol from a distance. I don't have any issues with cloudiness or bubbles this way. The pump ACC does not work for me).

-Speed lathe back up to 1800 RPM.-

Sand with 320 Grit (Sometimes 240 grit if I went crazy) to remove any ridges, swirls etc.

Sand with 400 grit.

DNA

MM through 12000

DNA

Buffing wheel with White Diamond only.

Hut Plastic Polish applied with paper shop towel.

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CA/BLO Method... I think this was posted here on the forum somewhere:


1) turn pen blanks to final size/design

2) sand blanks 220, 320

3) wipe on Mylands Cellulose Sanding Sealer, let dry

4) sand blanks using sandpaper 220, 320, 400, then with MM1500, MM1800, MM2400, MM3200, MM3600

(note: for oily woods wipe the blanks with DNA prior to starting the finish process)

5) slow lathe speed down, using a small piece of paper towel put on light coat of BLO -or- Watco - Dark Walnut on one of the blanks, then wipe off excess
a) use BLO if dark wood
b) use Watco - Dark Walnut if light wood, it will enhance the look

(note: if you use too much oil the CA will gunk up and not be nice and smooth or the finish will appear to have some ghosting spots, like maybe the CA is not stuck to the wood)

6) holding paper towel with BLO or Watco on it on bottom side of blank, add thin layer of CA-medium on top of blank as its spinning - in a side-to-side motion - one pass only...then add light pressure with the paper towel on the blank, constantly moving side-to-side till CA is cured (appx 10sec)...CA will heat up some...repeat process for second blank

(the heat is from the CA curing, not the friction applied by the paper towel applicator)

7) increase lathe speed back to fast setting, lightly sand blanks with MM1500, 1 pass only

8) slow lathe speed down, using a new small piece of paper towel put on light coat of BLO on one of the blanks, then wipe off excess

9) holding paper towel with BLO on it on bottom side of blank, add thin layer of CA on top of blank as its spinning - in a side-to-side motion - one pass only...then add light pressure with the paper towel on the blank, constantly moving side-to-side till CA is cured (appx 10sec)...CA will heat up some...repeat process for second blank

10) increase lathe speed back to fast setting, lightly sand blanks with MM1500, 1 pass only

11) slow lathe speed down, using a new small piece of paper towel put on light coat of BLO on one of the blanks, then wipe off excess

12) holding paper towel with BLO on it on bottom side of blank, add thin layer of CA on top of blank as its spinning - in a side-to-side motion - one pass only...then add light pressure with the paper towel on the blank, constantly moving side-to-side till CA is cured (appx 10sec)...CA will heat up some...repeat process for second blank

13) increase lathe speed back to fast setting, lightly sand blanks with MM1800, MM2400, MM3200, MM3600, MM4000, 1 pass only of each

14) while lathe is on, put light coat of Tripoli (brown stick) -or- EEE-Ultra Shine on blank, then using a new small piece of paper towel put pressure on blank moving side-to-side till hot...repeat process for second blank

15) after blanks cool down, while lathe is on, put light coat of White Diamond on blank, then using a new small piece of paper towel put pressure on blank moving side-to-side till hot...repeat process for second blank

16) after blanks cool down and lathe is off, put small amount (1/4" diameter size) of Hut Ultra Gloss Plastic Polish on a new small piece of paper towel, wipe evenly on one blank, turn on lathe, move to clean area of paper towel, then put pressure on blank moving side-to-side till hot...repeat this process for second blank

(some use McGuires auto polishing compound or swirl remover instead of Hut Ultra Gloss Plastic Polish)

-this step is optional-
17) after blanks cool down, while lathe is off, put light coat of Renaissance Wax -or- TSW on a new small piece of paper towel, wipe evenly on one blank, wait 45 seconds, turn on lathe, move to clean area of paper towel, then put pressure on blank moving side-to-side till hot...repeat this process for second blank

(these are not finishes, just a protectant from finger prints and smudges)

18) let blanks cool, remove blanks from mandrel, using pen mill (squaring tool), very lightly clean off each end of blanks...sometimes a light buildup of CA and/or finishes will occur and it should be removed prior to pen assembly sanding note: an option in sanding is to stop the lathe after each grit and sand length wise, even with MM. why?: to remove the circular sanding marks. then wipe the blank with a rag and DNA to remove sanding dust and grit from the previous grade of sandpaper. this will insure the next sanding paper is not picking up grit from the previous paper left on the pen blank.

legend:
BLO - boiled linseed oil
CA - cyanoacrylate glue
DNA - denatured alcohol
MM - micromesh
TSW - trade secret for wood

paper towel - Bounty (regular)

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CA Finishing by Mr. Don Ward:

Here is my basic CA/BLO finish application for pens:

1)

Lathe speed: slow. Using a small piece of paper towel folded several times, put on light coat of BLO ..I use 3 drops for the entire pen. I apply the finish at a much faster lathe speed now than I did when I first started learning.

(note: if you use too much oil the CA will gunk up and not be nice and smooth or the finish will appear to have some ghosting spots, like maybe the CA is not stuck to the wood)

2)

Hold the paper towel applicator from step 1, used to apply the BLO, on the bottom side of blank Starting with the paper towel and CA bottle on same end of pen, add a thin layer of medium CA on top of blank as its spinning while moving the CA and towel pad from one end to the other - one pass only...then add light pressure with the paper towel on the blank, constantly moving side-to-side until the CA is dry and the surface of the pen is smooth and slick...the CA will heat

up some...repeat process for second blank.. Keep the paper towel moving and the CA will cure to a bright shinny coating.

After some practice you will be able to determine how long to keep the applicator on the blank and moving. I think many who try this remove the applicator too soon and hence the high failure rate and frustration. Now, do the same to the other half of the pen. (the heat is from the CA curing, not the friction applied by the paper towel applicator)

3) I sometimes lightly sand between the CA layers, but most of the time I don’t…you will learn to tell when you should. I use very fine sandpaper (600 or 1000) or the 1500MM sheet

4)

Repeat step two…I do three coats of CA/BLO and sometimes four.

5)

After final CA/BLO application I sand with Micro Mesh 1500 to 12000.

6)

After sanding with MM I buff with white diamond and HUT Ultra Gloss Plastic Polish

7)

Some use a scratch and swirl remover auto polish instead the HUT Ultra Gloss Plastic Polish.

Mc Guire’s auto scratch and swirl remover is one that is

popular. I don’t use this myself.

8)

As a final treatment, Renaissance Wax is one choice for a topcoat. Ren Wax is not so much a finish as a protectant. I did not like the oily feel that Renaissance Wax had and after using a few times I set it aside and it finally dried up. But, I have started using a product developed by another pen turner called Trade Secret for Wood, or TSW. TSW has become my topcoat of choice. It is a wonderful product and a great final dressing for pens. It has a build up quality that allows it to fill micro scratches and gives the pen a wonderful smooth and glossy final look. I use it on every pen I make.

TSW is applied with a soft cloth, allowed to dry to a haze, and buffed off with a soft, clean, and dry cloth. I have used TSW over CA, lacquer, and Enduro and it works great. A wonderful product. That’s how its done and the result is a great durable finish for pens. After using this finish for 3 years now, I get such a great looking finish after the final CA/BLO application that I have stopped the sanding after the CA application and go straight to the buffing step.

This has come with practice and continual tweaking of the

application process to develop my own technique. I have begun to apply the CA to the paper towel applicator and then apply the CA to the spinning pen, but I think learning as I have outlined may produce quicker successful results. Deviations can be developed as you become comfortable with the CA/BLO finishing process.

[Andrew Derhammer]

i always had problems lathe on, i spun the lathe by hand to apply the layers and then start wet sanding with 400 and then move up to mm