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Thread: $10 Simple Router Lift Freud FT2200

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Upstate South Carolina, USA
    Posts
    176

    $10 Simple Router Lift Freud FT2200

    After reading a lot of posts here and elsewhere, I have modified my Freud FT2200 so it has above table adjustment, and it can still be used as a handheld router. A number of Creekers gave me input on this project - thanks, guys.

    First I removed the roll pin in the post that houses the height adjustment screw -it is the pin that attaches the post to the router base. This allowed me to disassemble and remove the adjustment mechanism. I cut the roll pin into two short 1/4 inch segments and reinstalled those parts from each side to hold the hollow post that housed the adjustment mechanism - this allowed the inside of the post to remain clear.

    After futzing around with several pieces of hardware, I finally came up with this for the adjustment threaded gizmo. It consists of a 3/8-16 threaded rod 11 inches long, a 3/8-16 attachment nut, a drilled out 1/4 inch washer, and a 3/8-16 x 3/4 inch socket head cap screw - all this is available from the blue borg. I put the washer on the cap screw and I assembled it all with epoxy.
    Router Lift 001.jpg

    I also "machined" down that attachment bolt to fit into the hollow post - I used my disc grinder to do this.

    I put the springs back in - you know, the ones that pop out when you disassemble the router. Then I slid the threaded gizmo up through the spring inside the post.

    I then used a 3/8 -16 tee jig nut from my favorite woodworking store - drilled out the back so the 3/8 threaded gizmo could go all the way through. At the far end I also reattached the original adjustment knob, after fixing it with a jamb nut underneath. The handles got removed for clearance in my router table. The original adjustment rod had a 3/8-16 thread, so this simplified using the original adjustment knob. One turn of the adjustment mechanism still equals 1/16 of an inch, which is very convenient.

    Router Lift 002.jpg

    The whole thing is attached to a 1/2 inch plywood insert plate, which now has a hole for access to the head of the cap screw...in the picture it's "above" the center hole where the bit comes through.
    Router Lift 003.jpg

    This allows me to adjust the bit height above the table with an allen wrench...or even cooler, a allen bit in my electric drill for fast gross adjustment. Or I can still use the router as a handheld - if I replace the handles - the original adjustment knob still works - although now you "unscrew" it to expose more bit.

    What would I do differently - well, the depth of a socket head cap screw requires a 1/2 inch attachment plate - if I had used a furniture attachment bolt or a button head socket screw, I could use a thinner attachment plate since the heads on those fasteners are thinner. I have also seen different versions that drill and tap the 3/8-16 threaded rod and screw into this the fastener with the socket head - this seemed like too much trouble to me, but it does eliminate the attachment nut.

    But so far, I really like this version. I will admit that I spent about $5 too much on unneeded hardware - and I made three trips to the store. But you should be able to do this mod for less than $10. This should also work on other plunge routers that use through the post adjustment. Of course, this will void your warranty.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Pittsburgh PA
    Posts
    44
    Pretty cool. I'm making a router table to take a FT2200 myself and have been thinking about something similar. The only part I'm not following, though, is the tee nut. Does it go on top (the top when the router is sitting on a bench, or the bottom when it's hanging on the table)? I'm assuming this is what the threaded rod works through to squash the springs and raise the router.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Upstate South Carolina, USA
    Posts
    176
    Yep, the tee nut (really a nut for a jig) goes on top of the threaded rod after it comes out of the body of the router. As you assemble everything, you tighten the tee nut against the body of the router until it is trapped and can't turn any more. Then by continuing to tighten the allen head bolt in the base of the router, the tee nut compresses the router body until the bit is exposed. So, in operation the tee nut stays trapped against the side of the router. Clear now?

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