Source of Headstock and Tailstock Spindles?

[Tom Overthere]

I've been considering converting an old lathe to do/be what I want, but building a larger lathe--primarily out of wood--with variable-speed seems like the wiser approach (and maybe cheaper in the long run).

Here's a link to something like what I'm considering

And here's another


Is there someplace I can buy a fully-machined headstock spindle
that will accommodate current standard components.
Specifically, I'm thinking:

a) 1" diameter shaft
b) Maybe 12" long
c) Center drilled
d) MT #2 taper (both ends?)
e) 1"x8 TPI RH on the bed end, and 1"x8 LH on the outboard end

I'm assuming there are step pulleys and plate bearings readily available for the 1" diameter shaft.
Please tell me if I'm wrong about that; if some other spec is standard.


Of course, I also need to come up with a suitable tailstock spindle that is threaded externally for ram travel. I figure center-drilled with an MT#2 taper is a must. I'd appreciate any suggestions for a source.

Or if anyone has a complete tailstock pulled from an old machine that I could adapt, I'd gladly consider buying one that's sturdy enough and in good working condition. Even a metal lathe tailstock might work...

Thanks,
Tom

[Doug Thompson]

If you don't locate one before the fall I'll be able to manufacture it. I believe a 1-1/2 inch diameter shaft might be better including a through hole just in case.

[Tom Overthere]

If you don't locate one before the fall I'll be able to manufacture it. I believe a 1-1/2 inch diameter shaft might be better including a through hole just in case.

Doug ==
Can you give me some idea of price? I'm thinking 1" O.D. just to take advantage of standard 1-8tpi threads on faceplates, chucks, etc. If I go 1-1/4" or 1-1/2", how do I manage the smaller-diameter threaded attachments?

Unless you advise otherwise, I figure it could be made (maybe) from seamless industrial tubing, 1" O.D. with 1/4" wall thickness:

- 16" length
- MT#2 both ends (or maybe just the inboard end)
- 1" 8tpi RH inboard
- 1" 8tpi LH outboard
- short keyway near middle length, for keyed step pulley

[Mark Norman]

Tom,
I had my spindle machined at a local machine shop flat rate. The round stock (1-3/4' D x 18" L) ran me $25 and an hour of machinist time was $95.






I figured I could have the MT done along with the through hole at a later date (would've been another hour and a half machine time)

I would not consider using anything but solid steel stock to begin with.

Here is what I am building: http://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=106663

[Doug Thompson]

Tom, if you could take the length down to 14 inches ( I have a small lathe), made from solid stock and the tread size doesn't matter because a shoulder is made so the faceplate will butt up against it. I could do that for materials because it's very easy to do. The first time I'll be free is in the fall... summer is booked already unless I retire from my real job.

Mark,
Looks good... with this setup you could turn a 40 inch bowl. Keep up your thread it's very interesting.

[Tom Overthere]

Tom, if you could take the length down to 14 inches ( I have a small lathe), made from solid stock and the tread size doesn't matter because a shoulder is made so the faceplate will butt up against it. I could do that for materials because it's very easy to do. The first time I'll be free is in the fall.

Doug ==
Thanks for your kind offer. I would be a piker to let you do it for materials, though. I'm sure I could reduce the length to 14" and only chose 16" because a DIY design I found online had a 16" spindle.

In fact, if I employ a VFD, I think I could mount a three-step pulley on the motor's shaft and mount only one single pulley on the spindle shaft (plus maybe a larger-diameter wheel/pulley that could double as a hand wheel and an indexing face... If I were to use top-mounted bearing blocks like Mark Norman did (see his post and linked thread above), I'd be surprised if it couldn't all squeeze onto a 14" shaft .

If this all gets too expensive/esoteric, I've located a very rough Powermatic 45 (no tailstock or tool rest) that I can probably get running on a shoestring. I'll notify you if I go that route instead.

In the meantime, three questions:

Q1) Are you saying you'd just turn the ends down from 1.5" or whatever, to 1" and then thread them 1"-8TPI? 'Might play hell finding a pulley that'll mount on such a large-diameter shaft...

Q2) Are you saying you would not be able to provide a hollow spindle? I think that might come in very handy when something MT#2ish gets jammed in place. I'm looking for some industrial tubing with a 1/2" cored center (haven't found it yet)

Q3) Whatzat onyer head in your Avatar picture? It's too small and lo-rez for me to tell, and I'm not going to venture a guess. It makes me think of The Mad Hatter, but it's not a giant top hat, is it...?

[Tom Overthere]

Tom,
I had my spindle machined at a local machine shop flat rate. The round stock (1-3/4' D x 18" L) ran me $25 and an hour of machinist time was $95.

I figured I could have the MT done along with the through hole at a later date (would've been another hour and a half machine time)

I would not consider using anything but solid steel stock to begin with.

Mark ==
I wonder if you can tell by someone's typing how much he's DROOLING...? I have not had time to do more than take a cursory look at your DIY thread (man, that shower is a work of art!). Will go back for more inspiration when I can find time to read the whole thread (maybe this weekend grrrrr!). Thanks for the insights.

[Ryan Baker]

Q3) Whatzat onyer head in your Avatar picture? It's too small and lo-rez for me to tell, and I'm not going to venture a guess. It makes me think of The Mad Hatter, but it's not a giant top hat, is it...?

Doug turns wooden hats. You might want to check out his web site too ... thompsonlathetools.com

[Mark Norman]

Sometimes I get a wild hair and an idea and just run with it.

You should be able to find a machine shop that can make what you are looking for. In my case it was a cattle feeding equipment manufacturer.

As for the step pulley and bearings check with a local bearing supply outfit in an industrial part of town that caters to the industry and get the pulleys and bearings established prior to having the shaft machined. I posted a lot of info regarding the development of mine and the research that went into it. Read the thread and feel free to ask questions.

And yes the larger shaft posed complications getting the sheaves and bushings to accomodate and tend to get expensive real quick when the shaft size is of larger diameter.

Post progress of your build as you go....with pics of course

And good luck to ya!

[Doug Thompson]

Doug turns wooden hats. You might want to check out his web site too ... thompsonlathetools.com

I wore that hat in the bank... everyone broke out laughing including me.

Like Mark said take a look at all the costs to build one bearings, sheaves, motor, VFD, tail stock, and what will it take to build the frame. These are all costs that need to be priced out before you start. I converted a lathe to a 2 HP VFD and it was $700 plus the time of about 4 hours.

You'll find a sheave to mount on a 1-1/2 diameter shaft and hopefully I could find steel with a hole already in it. The ends could have any size thread you want or the shaft could be any size. There is someone who is looking to bring another lathe to market, I want to bid on the head stock and tail stock but the design is not final, I think he's going with a 1-3/4 shaft which is the max for the lathe I have.

[Tom Overthere]

I posted a lot of info regarding the development of mine and the research that went into it. Read the thread and feel free to ask questions.

Thanks, Mark. I'll buckle down and "do my homework" this weekend. Really looking forward to it.

...the larger shaft posed complications getting the sheaves and bushings to accomodate and tend to get expensive real quick when the shaft size is of larger diameter. Get the pulleys and bearings established prior to having the shaft machined.

And THERE'S the money quote, as they say. Thank you for this gem of advice.

[Tom Overthere]

I wore that hat in the bank... everyone broke out laughing including me.

Wutta HOOT!

Like Mark said, take a look at all the costs to build one: bearings, sheaves, motor, VFD, tail stock, and what will it take to build the frame...it was $700 plus the time of about 4 hours.

If all goes as usual, it'll be four MONTHS(!) in my case. What I really like about DIY is, by my very rough estimate, I can (maybe) build a superb wood lathe with a whopping 20"x80" work envelope--enough to build anything I'll ever want to take on--for approximately $1000. Of course, that assumes very good luck in finding some key components, which is why I might buy that thrashed PM45 - for turning "in the here-and-now".

You'll find a sheave to mount on a 1-1/2 diameter shaft...

Do you think that would involve a press fit (sheeve onto shaft), or would the shaft be keyed and the sheeve have a set screw, or...? I'm thinking if the sheeve (pulley?) is bored even the least bit oversized relative to the shaft O.D., a set screw would force the sheeve to be excentric relative to the shaft - an' dat ain't good...

...and hopefully I could find steel with a hole already in it.

I will nose around locally, as well. I might have found a local supplier in "the industrial sector" as suggested my Mark.

...The ends could have any size thread you want or the shaft could be any size.

I'd like to go with the beefiest standard threads for wood lathe components. Maximum strength, minimum cost is always my "decision fulcrum".

...There is someone who is looking to bring another lathe to market, I want to bid on the head stock and tail stock but the design is not final, I think he's going with a 1-3/4 shaft which is the max for the lathe I have.

You must be one accomplished machinist... Admit it, dude. You HAVE to make your own big hats because of that oversized brain.

[Mark Norman]

No Tom, the sheave is not a press fit on the shaft, it is very tight but the bushing uses a keyway and set screw, the bushing is a taper fit in the sheave and clamps down concentric when the two bolt together. Standard in the industry.

[Tom Overthere]

..the sheave is not a press fit on the shaft, it is very tight but the bushing uses a keyway and set screw, the bushing is a taper fit in the sheave and clamps down concentric when the two bolt together. Standard in the industry.

Thanks for the reality check, Mark.

[Doug Thompson]

LoL it's the challenge more than anything plus a overactive brain that keeps me going. I've been approached by a few people with some great ideas and in the fall everything should be in place to manufacture for these guys. We are a very small group and it takes a small manufacture who is willing to take on a low volume runs to get a product out to market, most job shops won't bother with anything less than a thousand parts or the setup costs will hurt the final price. Most products don't cost much to bring out (under $500) but a lathe will take a commitment to a casting(s) which is no small cost.

Woodturning and metalworking are both hobbies... I will say woodturning is more enjoyable and fun. Metalworking on the other hand is fun but a lot of work and the machines... put it this way you don't tell your wife what they cost, the latest a SL-10 lathe swings the same as a Jet mini but cost 100 times as much... it's almost scary to think about.