First Shoulder Plane Reccomendations

[David Keller NC]

I'm curious if anyone has experience using the large size shoulder planes. Is there any reason to not get the large size over the medium. Obviously both would be a nice option but that's not in the cards right now.

My thinking is that the large shoulder plane will work well building the Roubo, and the only task it won't do for smaller scale furniture work is cleaning up Dado's.

The other option is a rabbeting block plane.

Thoughts?

One aspect of this is that while a large shoulder plane can be made to work on a small tenon shoulder, you can't make a small shoulder plane work on a large tenon so that the sole of the plane is narrower than the distance from the tenon itself to the edge of the shoulder (in other words, the plane's too narrow to cut the shoulder and register against the side of the tenon). The difficulty of making a large shoulder plane work on a small tenon is that the sole's a whole lot longer than the tenon shoulder, and as a result, it's difficult to get a consistent shaving from one end of the shoulder to the other. After a few strokes, you no longer have a shoulder that's 90 degrees to the length of the rail.

Also, while it is possible to use a rabbet block plane to trim tenon shoulders, this is definitely not what the tool is designed for - it's designed for trimming tenon cheeks. The difficulty with using it as a shoulder plane is that the sides of the plane are too short to extend past the length of the tenon, so it's difficult to grip the plane properly to square a shoulder.

I do, by the way, have shoulder planes with soles from 3/8" wide to 1-1/2" wide, and do occasionally use them instead of chisels. That said, if you develop skill with a good chisel, you don't need a shoulder plane - it's a "nice to have".

[Jeff Wright]

I enjoyed attending an all-day hand tool session with Rob Cosman yesterday and watched as he used a small router plane to trim tenons. This is the tool he used with great success:

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=271

[Bill McDermott]

Since you said you have a #5 and a #7, you may want to add a block plane to your kit. The Block Rabbet planes (e.g. L-N) will work on tenons, cheeks and the like. They will also serve as a low angle block on end grain and the like. Not optimal for either, but servicable for both - and much more.

If you already have a block plane, nevermind. I have an old #92 that is and extremely handy tool. Highly recommend it, or any of the new and improved models.

Shoulder planes allow you to move much more quickly as a beginner, knowing you can get accuracy with a shoulder plane - after intentionally cutting fat with a saw.

It's difficult for me to get good results with a chisel. I respect those who can, and continue to make efforts. When I need it to be right, a plane is far more reliable.