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Thread: Setting Depth on LV Scraping Plane

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
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    Rockingham, Virginia
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    Setting Depth on LV Scraping Plane

    I recently bought a LV Scraping Plane and intend to use it on panels vs. cabinet scrapers having seen it done this way with some success by a few pros. (Am told it is much less effort.) However, when I watched the pros I never thought to ask how they set the depth - how much is enough, etc. I expected the Scraping Plane would be a fussy plane with all the adjustments possible on it and that sharpening would be part of of my learning curve, but, I am a little bit frustrated (and probably clumsy ), so my questions are:

    How much depth is enough? (Understanding that I have to expose the cutting edge.)

    What is the best way to set the blade square and to the desired depth?

    Can I build a jig to set it to the proper depth and squareness?

    How can I best avoid getting a bit of a gouge on one side?

    Other suggestions?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Did your scraping plane not have any instructions?

    http://www.leevalley.com/html/05p2901ie.pdf

    http://www.leevalley.com/shopping/In...s.aspx?p=48492

    The blade is placed in the plane that is sitting on a flat surface until the blade just touches the surface. The thumb screw is then twisted to put a slight curve/bow in the blade. This will cause the scraper blade to project ever so slightly below the plane's bottom.

    Veritas site:

    http://www.veritastools.com/Products/Page.aspx?p=113


    Review of LV scraper plane with tips:

    http://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1976

    http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthr...Number=3924503

    Hope this helps.
    Cheers
    Last edited by Danny Burns; 04-06-2009 at 9:36 AM.

  3. #3
    My simple beginners method of setting the depth of any scraper plane or for that matter anny other plane is dead simple. Take and cut two pieces of typing paper about 3" square. Lay the paper on a flat solid surface like a properly flattened bench top with the pieces about 1-3" apart. Lay the tool on top of the paper pieces with the mouth centered over the gap between the paper pieces. Loosen the blade and allow it to make square contact with the bench top. Now tighten the blade in place.

    If you have most normal weight typing paper the blade projects .0035". Adjust up or down from here or find a thinner or thicker piece of paper depending on your needs.
    Dave Anderson

    Chester, NH

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Anderson NH View Post
    If you have most normal weight typing paper the blade projects .0035". Adjust up or down from here or find a thinner or thicker piece of paper depending on your needs.

    Dave, you must have finer paper than me. Mine is .004" rather than .0035". That's why my shavings have been so thick!
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Sebastopol, California
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Kent View Post
    Dave, you must have finer paper than me. Mine is .004" rather than .0035". That's why my shavings have been so thick!
    Maybe he just cranks down on the micrometer a bit harder.

    Starrett makes paper micrometers that have very large anvils, to avoid crushing the paper and more accurately measure it, for this reason.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Williamsburg,Va.
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    Aluminum foil is usually .002" thick. I think just laying the scraper blade in the plane directly on the bench,tightening the blade up,and bending a curve into the blade as Danny suggested,should be o.k.. I have an old Stanley,and never thought about making any special jig or other means of setting the cut other that this.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Rockingham, Virginia
    Posts
    338

    Real Help!

    What all of you have provided is real help. The plane came with instructions on how to sharpen it etc., but, not how to use it. The advice I have received from all of you and and the sites provided by Danny (especially the review site) seem to be very useful. I will try both methods for setting the depth - the flat on the bench and with paper on each side and experiment.

    This exchange is yet another concrete example of how important the Creek is to the sanity of woodworkers as we travel down the slippery slope of acquiring and learning to use fine hand planes.

    I note one of the sites precisely explained why I want to use a scraper vs. sandpaper (e.g., with a ROS) - you get to keep more shine and figure on the wood and it finishes easier. There is also less dust and folks love to have plane shavings to start fires. I figure if we wanted, we could sell our shavings . Regardless, I use hand planes because I get more appealing results and because using them can be good exercise.

    Again, thanks to all of you!

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