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Thread: SawStop PCS Dedicated Thread

  1. #31
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Virginia Beach Va
    Posts
    381
    Paul, I used a variation of your method - I put the fence all the way to the left so that the left pad was above the left most bolt, put 1 business card between the front of the saw and the pad ( made sure a second card wouldn't fit) then snugged that bolt, then moved the fence to the right so that the left pad was above the next bolt and moved the other end of the tube in or out to get the same distance ( 1 card fit easily, but a second wouldn't fit) , then snugged that bolt and continued in the same fashion all along the rail. Since I was only using the left most tab, I didn't get all that concerned about whether the pads were at even distance. Your version of moving along the fence is much better than the instructions - if you tighten the two ends it is pretty hard to get the gap just right all along the middle. Barry

  2. #32
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Southern Minnesota
    Posts
    1,442
    Barry,

    I am glade to hear that someone else had the same trouble as I did. The night I put the saw together, I set it 3 times trying to get it as close as i could with out it binding up. I could not do it and it drove me nuts. The way my front tube was set in order to get the majority of the slop out the fence would bind up. The only reason i said set both pads the same distance, was because at the left end you will use the left pad to index it, and at the right end you will use the right pad to index it. If they arn't the same distance it will be off because the difference of the pads. But it looks like we have good procedure now. Glad I could help. I hope you like the saw as much as I like mine.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Palm Bay Florida, Warner Robins Georgia, and Nigeria, Africa
    Posts
    349
    While I'm not putting on the SS fence system (going with Incra due on Tuesday), make sure you guys pass on your "fix" to SawStop. That way they can evaluate and change their procedures for the production model.
    Choosing Windows 7/8 over Apple OSX and IOS is sort of like choosing Harbor Freight tools over Festool!

    “They come from the desert, but it is we who have our heads in the sand.”
    Ben Weingarten

  4. #34
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Virginia Beach Va
    Posts
    381
    Paul, I agree with Frank, but it was your idea, so you can tell them ( If you don't want to do it, I don't mind, though I think you should get the credit - if any) I haven't started mine yet - I have about 3 hours in setting it up so far, though some of that was dumb moves by me. The main snag is that I assumed it wouldn't come with a cord and bought a cord and wired on a plug begore the saw arrived. Thinking cautiously, I bought 10/3 wire , no way will those leads fit on the switch, so I am thinking of picking up some 12 gauge. It was nice of them to include a plug and a cord, though 6 feet is awfully short. Barry

  5. #35
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Southern Minnesota
    Posts
    1,442
    I havent talked to them about the fence adjustments yet. I talked to them about a couple of other things today, nothing big. I think they would have been using this procedure for a while, because the fence is the same as the contractor saw. I will let them know that I dont think that their published procedure is correct. It just seems that my way is the way it should be done. Not because I am arogent or anything like that. But I have built my share of decks over the years. Long ago working with an older guy he said, " when you screw down a deck board, screw one end down and work your way to the other end, and adjust as you go." That is how I have put up window casing, door moldings and everything else since then. It works, it is easier to adjust as you move to the end instead of adjusting in the middle.

    Barry, what kind of saw are you upgrading from. You don't have to go to 12/3 if you dont want to. The saws maximum amp draw is 13 amps. 14 guage is rated for 15 amps and that is what saw stop has on the saw. It is good for up to 25 ft. I did just as Rob did, I didn't buy the little horse shoe crimp connector things. The wire fits right in a clamp and you tighten the screw down on the wire. The crimp connector things might make it a little easier, but they are not necessary.

    By the way, no cord is better than a 6 footer. 6 feet doesn't get you very far at all.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Northeast Georgia
    Posts
    834
    6 ft barely gets past the 52" table! I guess if you had a plug in the floor it would work. Now what to do with the extra wire laying around...

    So I messed with the miter gage a bit. I read in Wood magazine you could bang on the bar with nail set/punch to create little raised ridges along the bar to remove any slop. I was a little skeptical about it, but figured, why not?

    It actually worked. The little ridges are just enough to tighten up the bar in the slot, I just wonder if, over time, they will scar the iron in on the table. I'm still going to use my aftermarket Rockler miter gage, but keep this around as a backup. May work well in my router table...

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    276
    Anyone else have to adjust the miter slot to blade parallelism? Mine was initially out by just over 0.01. After adjusting the table, I got it down to about 0.001. The table bolts were pretty loose initially, so that probably explains why it was out so much to begin with.

    Everything went according to the manual instructions, except it was a pain to tighten the left rear table bolt because it was blocked by the trunion assembly. Tilting the blade away provided enough clearance to access the bolt, but this also required sliding the dial indicator out of the way. That made it tougher to check the alignment as you were tightening up the table bolts.

    Tomorrow, I'll take a shot at Paul's method of aligning the main tube, then squaring up the fence to the blade.

    Then its time to put this puppy to WORK!

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Northeast Georgia
    Posts
    834
    just set up my dial, off by 0.012" and I think explains some of the heel I was getting at the outfeed of my cuts- now where did I put that manual...?

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Palm Bay Florida, Warner Robins Georgia, and Nigeria, Africa
    Posts
    349
    On the cord issue...this is why:

    From SS response to my feedback....

    Regarding the cord and plug, we share your opinion that this is a component that is best provided by the customer. Unfortunately, US and Canadian standards (UL, CSA) require that we provide a rated cord and plug with a length between 2 and 3 meters. This standard is likely written with benchtop equipment in mind, but we nevertheless must comply to receive certification. We expect that, like you, most customers will replace the cord and plug to meet their needs when they install the saw.


    So it's pretty clear that it's no more than a decoration on the saw when delivered!
    Choosing Windows 7/8 over Apple OSX and IOS is sort of like choosing Harbor Freight tools over Festool!

    “They come from the desert, but it is we who have our heads in the sand.”
    Ben Weingarten

  10. #40
    Is the arbor on the Professional long enough to use the Dial-A-Dado system?

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    San Jose, CA
    Posts
    276
    The length of the arbor is 1.33" (as best I can measure w/ my calipers). I asked SS what the widest dado that can be used and they indicated 13/16" which seems pretty standard.

    But aside from the physical dimensions... are you sure the Freud Dial-a-Width Dado set will work with any Sawstop saw? I thought I read a thread that the hub Frued uses on this prevents the blade brake circuitry from working. Isnt the hub plastic? If so, I dont think this type of dado will ever work on a Sawstop saw...

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Palm Bay Florida, Warner Robins Georgia, and Nigeria, Africa
    Posts
    349
    Sure it will.. Just use it in BYPASS mode.
    Choosing Windows 7/8 over Apple OSX and IOS is sort of like choosing Harbor Freight tools over Festool!

    “They come from the desert, but it is we who have our heads in the sand.”
    Ben Weingarten

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Northeast Georgia
    Posts
    834
    A blade still has to be installed properly and a brake installed properly for bypass mode to work.

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Palm Bay Florida, Warner Robins Georgia, and Nigeria, Africa
    Posts
    349
    That's true, but a plastic hub is not going to affect placement of the brake and the Freud is a 5/8" arbor, and an 8" set, so there should be no problem using it in bypass mode.
    Choosing Windows 7/8 over Apple OSX and IOS is sort of like choosing Harbor Freight tools over Festool!

    “They come from the desert, but it is we who have our heads in the sand.”
    Ben Weingarten

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Northeast Georgia
    Posts
    834
    I think the question is, will the plastic hub keep the arbor from sensing if the blade is installed? Is there exposed metal down the middle of the set? I think there just needs to be enough contact so the saw "knows" there is a blade installed.

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