Biesemeyer Splitter

[Brian Riley]

Currently I am in the "gadget buying" mode and was wonder where is the best place to buy the Bies. snap-in splitter online? I also just purchased the Grr-Ripper and after looking at the splitter design the two don't seem to be very compatible without some "tweaking". Any experience with using both?

Thanks,
Brian

[Gary Whitt]

Brian,
The folks that make the Gripper have an excellent splitter. It is made to work with the Gripper.
It's about $15.00.

http://www.microjig.com/MJ%20Splitter.htm

[Brian Riley]

Thanks Gary......

Yeah, I saw that when I was on their site. I was just wondering how well the little pins would hold up. But after reading into a little more it might seem the way to go.

On another note......can anyone recommend one of those TS inserts that has the replaceable center pieces? They are usually made from aluminum and the center piece is hard wood.

Thanks again,
Brian

[Mark Singer]

I like making my own throat plate inserts...1/2 " baltic birch ply works great. Just scribe the plate that came with the saw. Then cut it and sand it to fit snuggly. Place it in the saw with the blade all the way down. On some saws you need to start with a smaller blade because it is hitting the new insert until the saw comes thru. Move the fence over the insert....but to the side of the blade. That holds it in there. Now turn on the saw and raise the blade. I keep one that is zero clearance and one with a bigger slot for miters.

[Carole Valentine]

I was just wondering how well the little pins would hold up. Brian

If you remove the MJ splitter the way they tell you too (with a screw driver thru the hole), I think the pins will hold up fine. If you try to pull the splitter out of the insert by hand, odds are you will probably bend or break one of the pins eventually. DAMHIKT! I have put mine in it's own insert now so I don't remove it. Remember that the MJ and the Beis are both for 1/8" blades. The Delta removable splitter ($30) can be used with both regular and thin kerf blades.

[Alan Turner]

Carole,
I just ordered one, and will keep your comments in mind. I have never used a splitter, and have known forever that I should, but was always put off by the fact that they were a PITA when doing different operations on the TS. Its easy removability is a big plus, IMHO. We shall see.
Alan

[Gary Whitt]

Brian,
the TS inserts you speak of are about $80.
The good thing is, you only change the wooden strip.
The wooden strip is rectangular -- easier and quicker to cut new ones!

That is next on my list of toys, I mean tools! lol

[Martin Lutz]

Brian, I think the throat plate insert you are describing is the one made by Wood Dynamics. www.wooddynamics.com I know Woodcraft, Garrett Wade use to carry them. I have one on my TS and love it. I have an insert for each different blade I use. The problem is that it is not designed for a splitter and I have not attempted to modify it to accept one. If you buy one and modify it to accept a splitter please let us know how it went and what you did.

[Russ Filtz]

The easiest, quickest splitter is to just use a drill bit inserted into a partial hole behind the blade. Typically in the zero-clearance insert. Bit should probably be a fraction smaller in diam. than the kerf. Only works for 90-deg cuts though.

[Martin Lutz]

Russ, Thats a great idea. I wish I would have thought of it. I wonder how well it works in a "pinch"? It lead me to another thought -- If you got a new insert, defined the cut by raising the blade through it, removed the insert and scored an 1/8" deep cut behind the through cut using the same blade, you could glue a splitter into the insert. My question is would a wooden insert work or maybe plastic? Is this a crazy or unsafe idea?

[Russ Filtz]

I didn't come up with the idea, I think I read it in a tablesaw book.

I think your idea would work. Just make sure of the width so that you don't cut it for a normal blade and then put on a thin kerf! Again, that will only work for 90-deg cuts, but would be handy. I would also sand the front edge of whatever you use into a "V" in case the wood closes slightly after it's cut and before it gets to the splitter.

I wood or plastic insert works fine. I've been using thee commercial phenolic inserts, but they get pricey. Bought a whole sheet of the stuff (also pricey!) to make my own, but haven't done it yet. Some people use ply (I would use baltic birch ply). You better make sure the slot you cut is perfectly inline with the blade too!

[Tim Greif]

Bies splitter has just dropped in price to $107.99 at Amazon. That's the lowest I've seen it anywhere.