Router bits to start

[David Song]

Hi,

As a newbie,when I to visit places like Woodcraft, there are sooo many bits to choose from. I don't mind buying sets or individual. I just don't know where I need to start. Having said, what is a must have or recommended router bits for wood worker?

To give bit more info, I'm a newbie who at this point is interested in building small household items. The project I'm thinking of doing right now is long key holders with bunch of hooks that I want to mount next to my door.

Please recommend bit type and brand.

btw, I used a search function with the word "router" and got over 20 pages of result. Just bit too much for me to sort through.
Thank you!

[John Nixon]

Hi David,

I recently wrote a small article on this topic. This is just my opinion for what I have found to be the primary bits I think every beginner should have:

Here's an exerpt from the article:

I believe the router table is one of the most useful and versatile tools in the shop. There's no other machine that can do so many different operations. The wide variety and vast selection of router bits available today makes it even easier to do more with your router.

Beginning woodworkers often opt to buy a router bit set that contains a plethora of various carbide nuggets. It's true that you certainly get more bits for the money when you buy a router bit set, but is it really a better value? The reason it might not be a better value is due to the fact that you probably won't regularly use a majority of the bits in the set.

I put together a list of four must-have bits for any woodworker that uses a router. This list works nicely for the beginning woodworker as an alternative to buying a bit set. It may be a shock at first to spend $20 to $50 or more on a decent single bit, but when you get a lot of use (and longevity) out of that bit, the price becomes justified.

If you're interested in which specialty bits I use, check out this article.


Roundover Bit

A small roundover bit is a nice way to "knock off" the sharp edge of a board. Using a roundover bit will ensure a consistent rounded edge along the length of the board. Roundover bits come in different sizes to produce a different sized radius on the board's edge.

I recommend getting a small one and a medium size one (1/4 roundover and 1/2 inch roundover would be good). Larger roundover bit can be used to create a bullnose (1/2 round on the edge of a board, like a stair tread).


Chamfer Bit

Ideal for beveling and decorative edges, and can also be used for for producing a 45° edges for mitres. The chamfer bit is also a nice way to "knock off" the sharp edge of a board. It's common to see chamfered edges or ends on Arts and Crafts furniture.

The nice thing about a chamfer bit is that unlike a round over bit that produces a certain radius, a chamfer bit is just an angled bevel, so you can buy a fairly big bit and always cut a small chamfer with it.


Solid carbide spiral upcut bit

The solid carbide spiral upcut bit is a versatile bit that can be used for rabbits, dados, tenons & mortising.

There's a lot of straight cutting bits to choose from. If you have a plain old straight fluted cutting bit, you really need to try a spiral bit. The solid carbide spiral bits costs more, but are well worth the extra in my opinion - the cut faster, eject chips better, and last longer.


Bearing guided flush trim bit

For use in trimming laminates and pattern routing. 1/2 inch diameter by 1.5 or 2 inch length is good

Pattern routing is a technique that copies a pattern that is the exact size as your final piece by using a flush cut bit to trim your workpiece flush with the pattern. The workpiece is first roughed to a size slightly larger than the final dimensions, and then the pattern is stuck to the workpiece with double sided tape during the routing operation. The bearing rides along the pattern and trims the workpiece flush with the pattern.

A pattern bit can also be used to easily trim veneer or laminate even with its substrate. The veneer or laminate is purposely left oversized and then trimmed flush using a bearing guided flush trim bit.

Specialty varieties of this bit include a solid carbide spiral version, or a bit with the bearing located above, below or both above and below the cutter.

The original article can be found here:
http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/post/What-Router-Bits-Should-a-Beginning-Woodworker-Buy-First.aspx

[chris dub]

To start I would get the $60 version of this set in a heart beat.

http://www.amazon.com/WHITESIDE-401-...7586461&sr=1-1

That is the best price I have seen for this set. Whiteside is rated as one of the best if not the best brands around. I just bought a round over set from them and was pleased with the service and the price was great.

I am in the process of upgrading my cheap 24 bit 1/4" starter set with reputable 1/2" shank bits. Unfourtunately I didn't see the set above in time. I don't regret getting the cheap set first because 1) it wasn't that expensive and 2) I figured out which bits I wanted to upgrade. But the cheaper bits don't last as long and depending on how cheap can burn the wood, might not leave smooth cut or worse are more prone to break, at 20K RPMs.

You will hear the same brands: Whiteside, Infinity, Amana, Eagle America, Freud and CMT as the tops. MLCS, Woodline, Woodcraft and Holbren (if you can find 'em) as good values.

If you start with a smaller set of bits look to Holbren (for Whiteside's), Amazon and MLCS for the one off bits. They have the best shipiping rates. Otherwise picking up a one off bit can get pricey when you have to pay an extra $7 shipping.

Most sets are just the basic profiles in multiple size profiles. A 30 bit set will give you the most used profiles with 2-3 sizes. A 99 pc set will give you a couple of additonal sizes in the same profile.

[David Song]

How about these? Not much more than Whiteside but also reputable, right? Is it overkill?

http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8369-2-In...591117&sr=8-34

[Dave Falkenstein]

Another good choice - Whiteside starter set from Holbren:

http://www.holbren.com/product.php?p...0&cat=0&page=1

Also available in 1/4" shanks.

For economy bits, it is hard to beat Woodline. Their bits are guaranteed for life!

http://www.woodline.com/c-230-router-bit-sets.aspx

[keith ouellette]

I ordered one of these from price cutter ( what they were called at the time) to start out with and even though they are supposed to be china junk I found them to be very impressive.
The carbide was just as thick as Frued bits I compared them to and they make very smooth cuts. They were not this expensive when I bought them.

http://eagleamerica.com/buddys-70-pi...ts/p/P19-7001/

Now I would probably consider this one which is much less money.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shops...ges/set66.html

[glenn bradley]

My MLCS bits all went fast, a few Rocklers are still around, Woodcraft's bits last longer than I would have expected and they are having their $5 sale right now. I generally pick up a chamfer and a stright bit when that sale is on. The bits I have that have stood the test are Whiteside and Freud.

[Greg Hines, MD]

I would keep an eye out for the Woodcraft $5 bit sale. They have a great number of bits that you will find useful. To the above bits, I would add rabbeting bit with different bearing sizes. I would also suggest a couple of different sized roundovers.

Doc

[scott spencer]

I'm also a fan of top shelf bits like Whiteside, Infinity, Freud, or Eagle America, but I understand that a newbie may not want to spend that much for so few bits to "cut their teeth on" so to speak. I'd suggest the Whiteside basic set, then add some individual bits as needed. Using the "SMC10" code gets you 10% from Holbren, plus free s/h over $75....so ~ $80 shipped.

Small sets can be a wise purchase, but I don't recommend buying a huge set of low quality bits for a lot of money. Poor quality bits can be dangerous, and many of the profiles are near duplicates of other profiles.

[chris dub]

What do folks tihnk about Amana bits? They seem pricier than Whiteside, Freud and Infinity. Are they in the same class?

[Lee Koepke]

What do folks tihnk about Amana bits? They seem pricier than Whiteside, Freud and Infinity. Are they in the same class?

I believe Amana bits are generally ( or originally ) intended more for heavy commercial / industrial use, so not in the same class, as the others are geared to less intensive use.

I had seen that Amana was producing another line geared for non industrial users.

[glenn bradley]

What do folks tihnk about Amana bits? They seem pricier than Whiteside, Freud and Infinity. Are they in the same class?

I have a large Amana pattern bit that I love but they are pricey. I got it for half price when Rockler stopped selling Amana and blew them out.

[Bill Huber]

As a newbie I say buy them as you need them and get good ones, I like Eagle and Whiteside.

I got a set of bits when I started out and to date I have not use 3/4 of them and the ones I have used are dull.

Now I buy a bit when I need it.

I will add that John Nixon's 4 bits are a really good place to start and get good ones. I would also get all 1/2 inch when you can and just skip the 1/4 inch bits.

[David Song]

Hi David,

I recently wrote a small article on this topic. This is just my opinion for what I have found to be the primary bits I think every beginner should have:

Here's an exerpt from the article:

I believe the router table is one of the most useful and versatile tools in the shop. There's no other machine that can do so many different operations. The wide variety and vast selection of router bits available today makes it even easier to do more with your router.

Beginning woodworkers often opt to buy a router bit set that contains a plethora of various carbide nuggets. It's true that you certainly get more bits for the money when you buy a router bit set, but is it really a better value? The reason it might not be a better value is due to the fact that you probably won't regularly use a majority of the bits in the set.

I put together a list of four must-have bits for any woodworker that uses a router. This list works nicely for the beginning woodworker as an alternative to buying a bit set. It may be a shock at first to spend $20 to $50 or more on a decent single bit, but when you get a lot of use (and longevity) out of that bit, the price becomes justified.

If you're interested in which specialty bits I use, check out this article.


Roundover Bit

A small roundover bit is a nice way to "knock off" the sharp edge of a board. Using a roundover bit will ensure a consistent rounded edge along the length of the board. Roundover bits come in different sizes to produce a different sized radius on the board's edge.

I recommend getting a small one and a medium size one (1/4 roundover and 1/2 inch roundover would be good). Larger roundover bit can be used to create a bullnose (1/2 round on the edge of a board, like a stair tread).


Chamfer Bit

Ideal for beveling and decorative edges, and can also be used for for producing a 45° edges for mitres. The chamfer bit is also a nice way to "knock off" the sharp edge of a board. It's common to see chamfered edges or ends on Arts and Crafts furniture.

The nice thing about a chamfer bit is that unlike a round over bit that produces a certain radius, a chamfer bit is just an angled bevel, so you can buy a fairly big bit and always cut a small chamfer with it.


Solid carbide spiral upcut bit

The solid carbide spiral upcut bit is a versatile bit that can be used for rabbits, dados, tenons & mortising.

There's a lot of straight cutting bits to choose from. If you have a plain old straight fluted cutting bit, you really need to try a spiral bit. The solid carbide spiral bits costs more, but are well worth the extra in my opinion - the cut faster, eject chips better, and last longer.


Bearing guided flush trim bit

For use in trimming laminates and pattern routing. 1/2 inch diameter by 1.5 or 2 inch length is good

Pattern routing is a technique that copies a pattern that is the exact size as your final piece by using a flush cut bit to trim your workpiece flush with the pattern. The workpiece is first roughed to a size slightly larger than the final dimensions, and then the pattern is stuck to the workpiece with double sided tape during the routing operation. The bearing rides along the pattern and trims the workpiece flush with the pattern.

A pattern bit can also be used to easily trim veneer or laminate even with its substrate. The veneer or laminate is purposely left oversized and then trimmed flush using a bearing guided flush trim bit.

Specialty varieties of this bit include a solid carbide spiral version, or a bit with the bearing located above, below or both above and below the cutter.

The original article can be found here:
http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/post/What-Router-Bits-Should-a-Beginning-Woodworker-Buy-First.aspx

Hi,
after I read your comment about how solid carbide sprial upcut bit is recommended over regular straight bit, I visited this web:http://www.holbren.com/manufacturers...nufacturerid=3
and found that there are numerous solid carbide upcut bids. Would you be kind enough to point out one or two specific model/size.

Thank you, David

[David Song]

Couple more questions,

-what is the difference between downcut and upcut bits in general?

-If I wanted to cut a channel/line 1/2" wide, 15" long, and that goes all the way thruout 3/4" plywood, which router bit do I use?

thank you!