Bandsaw Blades

[Mike Stephens]

What is the best general blade for a wood turner?

Thanks,
Mike

[Benjamin Dahl]

Mike, I am sure you will get a lot of responses. I personally like the woodturner's blade from Highland woodworking.
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/i...OD&ProdID=6944
Ben

[Mike Stephens]

I was looking at those. Thanks for the response. I forgot to mention that I have a Delta 14" 1 1/2hp 93 1/2" BS.

Mike

[Mike Minto]

i'd like some recommendations, as well - i keep breaking blades (timberwolves, 1/2") when sawing logs lengthwise on my Rikon deluxe 14 when making turning stock. mike

[scott schmidt grasshopper]

might try lenox blades I use either a 1/2 x4tpi or 3/8 4tpi. main thing is to keep the BS tuned ( thrust bearings aligned,guide bearings very close 2 blade)for the blade and dont cut dirty wood. we even have a blade sharpener around here . if you find yourself pushing hard I bet its dull. I try to wash all my barked woods before cutting them

[Heather Thompson]

I am not a turner, yet, but I would suggest contacting Iturra Design for any questions concerning bandsaws. Their shop is great, they know bandsaws inside and out, ask for their catalog (more like the Bible for bandsaws than a catalog). I don't know if it is OK to post their phone number here, no web site, PM me me and I will give it to you.

Heather

[John Skibo]

I have a Lennox carbide tipped blade, will knaw through anything. and will probably out last regular blades 10 fold.
Pricey though, I got one slightly used for $75

[Tony De Masi]

For rounding blanks on the BS I use the Timberwolf 3/8" AS blade. It is specifically made for wet wood and they work extremely well.

Tony

[Reed Gray]

I am lucky and have a Lennox dealer here in town, and he makes me what I need. There are all sorts of thicknesses of blades, teeth per inch and sets to decide from. Most places that make the blades can tell you what you need. As far as woodcutting for turners, a 1/2 inch 3 tpi blade is great. Bimetal is better for durability, and isn't wrecked if you hit a nail. There is bimetal for wood and for metal. A carbide blade is only necessary if you are cutting veneers, and resawing lumber where a very clean cut is required. I tried one for my turning stock, and at $180 for a 150 inch 1 1/4 inch blade, compared to about $75 for a blade that can be sharpened several times, it isn't worth it. My local saw service sharpend my 150 inch bimetal blades for about $10. You can do a touch up yourself, but for that price, I won't even bother. The carbide blades from Lennox can not be resharpened. The resaw masters from Laguna can, but I think they are not carbide but stellite, which is still pretty hard. If you are breaking blades, number one cause is probably not having the thrust bearings (the ones behind the blades) set properly. They can vibrate loose, and should be checked from time to time. Also, if your blade is dull, and you are having to push, this will also cause the blades to break. Some times they just break from being worn out. Usually if you look at a broken blade, you will find a lot of other stress fractures in them, and they are recycleable only.
robo hippy

[Burt Alcantara]

I've been using a Timberwolf 1/2x2 AS, yes, that's 2. This is by far the easiest cutting blade I've ever used. Timberwolf warned me that the blade is very aggressive. I wish they'd make a 1/2x1.

The other blade is a 1" Lennox Woodmaster. I believe it's something like 1x3/4, that is less then 1 tooth per inch. Cuts great but not great for making blanks.

For me, the Timberwolf AS blades cut green wood the best.

Burt

[Bernie Weishapl]

I use a 1/2" X 3 tpi Timberwolf and a 3/8". For the price you can't beat them. They will just slice thru green wood.

[Burt Alcantara]

Mike,
The essence of this is low tooth count. If you cut green wood with 10 tpi, the blade will clog up and not cut at all about the 3rd cycle around. This is why you'll see all of the recommended blades have 3 or less teeth per inch.

Lots of us prefer Timberwolf because they have blades designed to cut green wood. These are usually the AS, or Alternate Set blades. They have a few others but I've found these are still my preferred set.

So you don't end up with a shop full of blades you will never use, don't hesitate to ask questions.

Burt

[Tim Cleveland]

i'd like some recommendations, as well - i keep breaking blades (timberwolves, 1/2") when sawing logs lengthwise on my Rikon deluxe 14 when making turning stock. mike

I have had alot of trouble with breaking my Timberwolf blades too, but I was using them on dry wood mostly ( didn't know they were meant for green wood). I was actually breaking all of them at the weld, wihch Timberwolf guarantees will not happen ( to their credit, they always replaced the blade for me). I have recently switched to Lenox blades and have been very happy with them.

Tim

[John Skibo]

The carbide blade I have does a terrible job on veneers because it has a rough cut, Highland resaw blade leaves a smooth cut for veneer or resawing , only a light sanding is nessasary.
The 3 TPI 3/4" lennox carbide blade will outlast a bimetal 10 X so you wont need to resharpen

[Frank Kobilsek]

For Roughing round bowl blanks I use the cheap Olsen 3/8 - 3 or 4 TPI. They are under $20 so sharpening is not an issue. My Bandsaw performance and safety imporved when I made a bigger top for the saw. Support the blank and it will cut cleaner. I run a Grizzley 550 14" with riser so its a 105" blade.

Mike, Use your sawchain to rip logs, much much safer and faster.

Frank