Bad table saw switch

[Craig Richmond]

It seems I have a bad magnetic "on" switch on my Jet 10" table saw. I took it switch box apart and it is quite elaborate in there. A new one is $178.00 from Jet. Has anyone done modifications to the switches, like aftermarket? Does anyone have other ideas of what do here without going the $178 route?
Thanks

[Craig Richmond]

Oh, it is the magnetic switch. I did check it.

[Kevin Cole]

You dont necessarily need to get another magnetic switch. Thats only for safety. However if you feel you need to replace it with what came off look at busy bee tools they have one that goes on sale every now and then. But before you go shopping id take the current switch to an electronics store and see if they know how to fix it. They do sometimes not complete a circut for a random reason.

[Tom Veatch]

Don't know if your's is the same as mine, but the switch on my Jet JTAS-10XL is actually a "starter" in that it contains the overtemp "heaters" for the motor. If you replace the unit with a homebuilt or generic mag. switch or motor rated toggle switch, it's your call, but be aware that you may be discarding the motor's overload protection.

[Chip Lindley]

Cheap mag starters are the BANE of otherwise good import machinery! An ohm meter can be used to test the coil for continuity. If you get a resistance reading the coil is probably ok. If no reading, its probably Toast!..and Thats That!

But too often, over time the contacts get burned and fail to bridge the current from one side to the other in these very minimally-made Asian import switches. Take the starter apart again and inspect the contacts for burnt pitting. The contacts can be renewed with judicious filing. Remember that the rougher finish you impart to the contacts, the sooner they will pit and burn again! But, the contacts life can be extended while you look for a more substantial starter.

There are many good used magnetic starters on eBay which will work well with your 3hp saw. I like Square D starters, which are abundant and reliable AND fairly Cheap! Look for a Size 1 starter with either 120v or 240v coil. Two overload heaters must be sized to fit your 3hp amp load. There IS life after cheap OEM mag starters!

[Craig Richmond]

Chip,
I took the switch a part and did not see any burned contacts. I did find a loose wire but it was still connected. Maybe it was not able to handle the power though. I will reconnect all wires and try again. Then maybe Square D.

[Steve Clardy]

Check grizzly on line prices. They have several to pick from.

[Rick Christopherson]

Because this is a Jet saw, then chances are it is not a low voltage controlled starter. What that means is that you physically close the contacts when you press the On button.

If you press the On button and the saw does not start, then it is not fully conclusive that the starter is faulty. Even fairly well pitted contacts will make contact if enough pressure is applied. Since you found one loose wire, I would check for others before proceeding.

[Craig Richmond]

After reading a few articles about magnetic switches, I am going with a non magnetic switch from grizzly. From what I can see the main purpose for a magnetic switch is to keep the saw starting on its own after a power interruption. Since I will hit the off button and possibly unplug the unit after a power failure and unplug the unit when done for the day, I don't see the need for a mag. switch. Now, if anyone can give me a good argument against this idea I am all ears.

[Chip Lindley]

Good/Better/BEST Argument: Because you CAN and WILL forget!!

I had a Rockwell CS which blew the breaker all too often, wired for 110V. With the lights OUT I was more concerned with getting to that breaker across the shop than remembering to flip the saw switch OFF!! When the breaker was reset, the saw came ALIVE! with the blade still in the workpiece!! Not a happy occasion!

But, Thats ME!! You may be a KLINGON and totally *logical* haha!!

[Chip Lindley]

The starter can definately still be a magnetic but not an LVC. All import starters I have seen, use line voltage at the coil, without any transformer to reduce voltage to typically 24V. (LVC = Low Voltage Control)

The contacts inside the on/off buttons could be burned from making and breaking the line voltage repeatedly. There is also an interlock contact which keeps the circuit completed after the momentary pushbutton energizes the coil. These need to be inspected in addition the contactor which passes full voltage from line to the motor.

Also, an overload heater is in the starter. This could be tripped or otherwise bad.

[Clint deal]

Been a long time since I have posted here but I had the same problem on the same saw several years ago before I got the left tilt Grizzly I now use.
Mine was a simple magnetic switch that had filled with sawdust burning the contacts. I filed the contacts and it is still working down at my dad's shop
clint

[Charles Lent]

I had problems starting my saw and couldn't find anything wrong with the contactor. It turned out to be a bad Stop switch. The stop button operates a normally closed switch that opens the contactor's coil circuit and the saw can't be started until this circuit is complete. If the switch doesn't close when you release it the circuit stays open, preventing the Start button from working. The Stop switch was the last place that I thought of looking for a "Starting" problem, so it took longer to find than it should have, but cleaning the contacts was all that was necessary to fix it.

[Chip Lindley]

....What Charles said!......

[Craig Richmond]

I removed the stop switch and still get the buzzzing sound when the start button is pushed..