Chip, I'd keep a board full width if the job called for it, and for many applications I think the job calls for it -- table tops, door panels and other panelling, etc.. To my eye, fewer wide boards almost always look better than glue-ups of many more narrow ones, and if possible I'd avoid pre-ripping because the pattern can be interrupted, a bit, by that 1/"8-3/16" of wood lost to the saw, jointer, etc.
Last edited by Frank Drew; 03-13-2009 at 12:57 PM.
I have a 6" PM 54HH and love it. That said I dearly wish I got an 8". As your skills increase and you move on to more complex projects you will wish you got he 8". Been there
Scott
Read the article in current issue of FWW on jointing boards wider than your jointer. I have used this method ever since I first got my 6" jointer. I can do 9-10 inch boards with no problem. Just put a "shim" on the in feed table, make sure that "shim," and knives align with the rabbeting ledge. Put a shim under jointed area, and run it through the planer. When this side is flat, turn board over, remove shim, and plane second side parrallel to first.
at least 50%, my average board size is over 8". I moved up to a JJP-12. no more cutting boards down to fit.
This evening, I struggled with flattening some 10" wide Sapeli. I have a 6" jointer.
I cursed that jointer more than once for being too small.
I have had it for 6-7 years and only in the last couple years have I began to wish for a bigger machine.
I have been shopping for a good used 12" but havent found it. I wont bother going 8", just jump to 12" and be done with it.
This question can be thought of as a generalized one--not just for jointers. Most of our woodworking tools are supposedly useful for different projects as they come up. Since we don't know what the future may bring, I would say that the more flexible the better. But of course, we have those pesky budget limitations to deal with.
Nearly 100% of the time I need more than a 6" jointer can deliver because I flatten all my lumber by face jointing. 8" wouldn't be enough for most of the wood I use as I prefer wide lumber and buy it that way. The wider jointer surface also allows me to skew the workpiece for a shearing cut which comes in handy particularly with figured wood.
I rarely edge joint since getting my sliding saw, preferring instead to straight-line on that tool with the workpiece clamped down. It's glue ready off the saw and has none of the ripples that are typical of a jointed edge.
Oh, I use a 350mm (~14") jointer/planer combo machine.
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
I wouldn't have thought I needed one till after I got used to one. Now, I don't know how to get out of bed without first using my 12" jointer.