Dewalt TrackSaw vs Table saw?

[Chris Padilla]

I guess if one uses a flat-grind blade in one's CS (similar to a ripping blade), cutting dadoes should be possible with a GCSS (Guided Saw Circular System).

[J. Z. Guest]

Interesting thread.

My system is to have a high-end portable table saw. The Rigid, TS2400. It has an outstanding fence, and a soft-start, electronically-controlled motor.

Later, I bought a $20 edge guide and a nice 5-1/2" Skil circular saw. Everything together is less than $600, and there is nothing I can't do with this combination.

[Alan Frazier]

If you had no tools would you purchase a tracksaw or a table saw? Lets hear some explinations.

thanks

Tablesaw, the tracksaw seems great for cutting up plywood but with a skillsaw you can do that. You can do a lot more with a tablesaw.

[Burt Waddell]

This question comes often and I'm always amused at the replies. Most people haven't experienced using both tools.

In the 2004-2005 time frame, I had cancer, open heart surgery and hernia surgery. I needed to find an easier way to work. At that time I was a die hard table saw guy - had 3 unisaws in my small commerical shop. I ordered a EZ set from Hartville tool just to handle plywood. My employees thought I had lost it. Over time, we started using the guide system more and more. The unisaws, my over arm pin router and panel saws are gone.

The EZ Power Bench Bridge has opened up a entire new world of woodworking. I missed the ability to be able to quickly set a unifence and make as many cuts of that size as I need. Solution: replace the fence on the power bench with a unifence.

We've developed ways to make raised panl doors on the power bench.

You asked how small you can cut? As thin as it is possible to cut on any saw.

Burt

[Kelly C. Hanna]

Kelly,
Run your saw few times? ...
Technically?

Dino...sorry, I don't understand the question, but yes I run my saw six days a week.

[Michael Parr]

He has a video that he runs his saw about 12 times and makes a nice dato. I use the SRK with the EZ system and use my router to cut perfect datos. After working on making a night stand today I am sold that the EZ system offers a lot more functionality to what the TS would do with the space I have.

[Kelly C. Hanna]

I get it now...thanks for clearing that up, it's getting late. I can't run dados with the blades I buy...they are ATB's. Nor would I want to run any tool more than once down a track to make one. I will probably never do another dado on the TS. The router does a much better job of it.

I will never again use any guide that isn't one piece, btw. The one I have is no longer straight at the joint and it cost me a $200 door to find out. I still wish I'd bought that one that had a 108" rail....Penn State [I think] used to sell it for $100...that was a deal! These days I use an 8' level and two clamps.

[Ed Calkins]

Wow, this has been an educational thread. Whenever one asks about tools, machines, size jointer, whatever, the obvious question (and rightfully so) is "what are you going to build"?? I wish I knew. I am setting up a woodshop as a hobby -- have some furniture projects on the list and a small wine celler to build racks for --- but my projects will evolve (hopefully) as I proceed. I have enjoyed the "design" of my shop and have started replacing my archaic tools with new/different choices. I have the bandsaw, the dust collection (not in the original plan), will soon have the jointer, and not sure what I will do about a TS (have an old 8" Craftsman as I mentioned before) or guided CS system. I read this thread a few times and went through the large Festool catalog that has everything in it. I think I considered all the advice here while realizing that not all views are consistent due to different usage patterns etc. I have learned that these track systems can replace the functions of a table saw. But, I think the advice I am getting is that the TS would be best for me -- I actually was hoping to get directed away from a TS. A few considerations as applies to me: 1) I have room for the TS. 2) I will probably get a SawStop or similar quality cabinet saw. 3) I don't have any need to use the tools at a job site. 4) I will not be building lots of cabinets (maybe none) 5) Limited use of sheet goods and the few I use I can break down with an informal guide and CS. So I guess I would appreciate an assessment of my conclusion and was wondering if there is anything a track guide system can do (other than the sheet goods handling) better than a good TS? I think my work will be mostly solid wood projects. Thanks much for all the great advice and comments. Ed

[Luther Oswalt]

I think that I should like to have a new Makitia as opposed to any other. It would just suppilment my table saw. My use would be to break down plywood. The Makita looks very nice with nice features ... in was in one of the mags this month along with Delta and Festool. Having said that ... my 1x attached to a pc of masonite works quite well!
P.S. and is a lot cheaper!
Leo

[phil harold]

If space is limited go with a track saw. to rip a full sheet of plywood you would need less room than a table saw

you also said "low priced table saw", which needs to be clarifed, portable, contractor, or cabinet saw?

[Paul Johnstone]

But let's say we were counseling a young person just getting into the hobby, one who doesn't have any tools yet. Which does he buy?

A guided circular saw system wins hand's down in this case, IMHO. .

I respectfully disagree, because there is another option. Buy a tablesaw and an inexpensive circular saw. You can get a decent circular saw for less than $100. Make your own straightedge guide.

I know hypothetically, it's just one or the other,but if he can't buy a plain circular saw, he's not going to be able to afford wood to do projects with.

There's no need to buy a $500 or so guided circular saw (plus buy/make some kind of equivalent to the Festool MFT) if you have a good tablesaw. Sure, they are a nice luxury, but I still don't have one.
The tablesaw does 97% of the cuts, and a regular circular saw does the other 3%.

The only exception I would make is if this new woodworker was not strong enough to handle full sheets of plywood, and planned on doing a lot of plywood work. The other exception is if they had no space for a tablesaw.

[Paul Johnstone]

. Any guess (I can do the research of course) on what it would approx cost to get the appropriate Festool plunge saw and a guide system, table, etc. -- or other systems that have been mentioned -- that replace (I understand it is not a complete replacement for all types of work) the table saw? Thks again for your time and knowledge, Ed

http://www.mcfeelys.com/search/festool+plunge+saw

Festool prices are the same everywhere. It looks like the kit is either $1017 or $1142. And then you have to add on the vac if you want dust collection.

For that money, you can get a nice tablesaw, which is so much more versatile and repeatable.

[phil harold]

since you titled the thread Dewalt TrackSaw vs Table saw

did you go to Dewalts site?
http://www.dewalt.com/us/tracksaw/ap...ons/index.html

then click on

TrackSaw vs Table saw

[Chris Padilla]

http://www.mcfeelys.com/search/festool+plunge+saw

Festool prices are the same everywhere. It looks like the kit is either $1017 or $1142. And then you have to add on the vac if you want dust collection.

For that money, you can get a nice tablesaw, which is so much more versatile and repeatable.

Keep in mind that a track saw is likely to be SAFER to use versus a table saw. Since you are moving the tool through the wood (wood that is stationary, clamped, etc.), the likelihood of kickback is reduced quite a bit. This might be important to a newbie.

[John Schreiber]

Lots of good comments above. I'm in a similar situation. I've mostly used non-powered hand tools. I've got a circular saw which I think cost me $40 about 10 years ago and I can do pretty well with that. I'm planning to purchase a guided rail (EZ-Smart) system.

A table saw has this spinning blade sticking up right near where your hands are going to be. That seems to be a natural part of woodworking until you start thinking of other ways which are safer.

We are all used to thinking in terms of a table saw. Once you start thinking in terms of a rail guided system, you find that there is very little they can't do. Somethings they do better, some they do worse, but I think it's pretty even trade off.

I didn't see where anyone had answered the question about how narrow can the stock be for a guided rail system. With the system I mentioned above, there needs to be ~1/2" on side which will be under the rail. Using the more expensive clamps, they claim you only need 1/8".