Newbie Needs Help Picking Out L-N Block Plane

[Jim Koepke]

Hi Dan and welcome to the Creek.

I do not have any of the LN planes mentioned above. My block planes are an old 9-1/2, 18, a pair of 60-1/2s and a pair of 65s.

Mine were all used. I use the 60-1/2 and the 65s mostly. I like the low angle. The adjustable mouth is also very useful. Closing or opening the mouth is like having a fine adjustment on the cutting action.

My planes have almost all been bought used. There are some pitfalls in this approach. If one is patient and likes to fettle, there are many good old buckets of rust to turn into little beauties.

If one wants to get up and go, the money is better spent buying a high quality tool new.

Your profile does not show a location, but Creekers seem to be a friendly lot. If you live near one, I am sure they would be happy to let you handle their planes if there is not a retailer near by who will let you handle the good before you buy.

The Stanley 60-1/2 and the 65 are nearly the same except for the width. If one has small hands, the 60-1/2 may be the better choice, I have medium-fat hands and the 65 is almost too wide for me to get a comfortable grip. No matter how good the tool you have, if it is uncomfortable to use, it will likely not get used. An unused tool, no matter how good the price is not a good investment for the tool user.

If it were me, and I had the money to do this, the 60-1/2R looks like a good tool, but it is more of a specialty tool than a general purpose tool.

Since my shop already has a couple of shoulder planes and other planes to do the job of this plane, it is way off my radar.

A good block plane like the 60-1/2 is a versatile tool that will be used on many jobs for as long as one is working wood.

An old axiom is to buy the best quality and most versatile tools for the work being done, that can be afforded.

jim

[Jim W. White]

I have only a Lee Nielsen 60 1/2 Rabbet plane as my only block plane and I love it. It's an extremely versatile little gem and have yet to miss the adjustable mouth. It can take whisper thin shavings regardless and the rabbetting ability is extremely handy.

Jim in Idaho

[Bob Hicks]

Hi Dan,
The LN low angle, adjustable mouth is my favorite plane - I wish I had two. However, you won't like it (or any other plane or chisel) if you don't have the ability to keep it sharp. If I was back in your position (been there), I'd spend $95 on the plane and the rest on a set of waterstones.
Bob

[Alan DuBoff]

If it were me, and I had the money to do this, the 60-1/2R looks like a good tool, but it is more of a specialty tool than a general purpose tool.

I don't see it being so much a specialty tool as much as I do versatile. The other thing is that you rarely find a rabbet plane in the wild, but the more common 60 1/2, 65, 65 1/2, etc...can be found fairly easy. In fact I have a 60 1/2 which I owned before the LN 60 1/2 R I own as well.

The 60 1/2 R is just an incredibly useful plane for me, but I 'spose all of our mileage varies on this. I use it for tenon cheeks, and you can kinda use it for tenon shoulders if your careful, but it's not the best suited, it does work for that work in a pinch and I have used it.

It also functions as a regular 'ol block plane when you want it to as well. I think I got mine on sale at Woodcraft. One of my favorite hand planes, slightly bigger than the older vintage Stanley 60 1/2 I own, but I use both of them quite a bit.

You can also find other common vintage planes like the 10 1/2, it's a bit wider, and those are fairly common also, it's just the vintage rabett is not that common in my experience, so it makes sense to get a new one instead.

[David Keller NC]

"What do you think about the idea of getting the 60-1/2R as a first plane instead of the 60-1/2?"

This depends. If you're also going to buy a small smoother at the same time (say a LN #3 - I personally don't recommend the bevel-up smoothers for beginners), then the rabbet block may be a good bet. However, if you're only going to buy one (block) plane and use it for a while, I'd recommend the non-rabbet Lie Nielsen 60 series with an extra blade.

The reason is that the 60 series Lie-Nielsen low angle block plane can be used as a small smoother by cambering (curving) the blade so that the opposite corners don't dig into the wood. Granted, it's not the most ideal smoother, but it will work just fine on smaller pieces like box sides. It can also be used on its side as a small shooting plane to clean up miters.

It'd be difficult to use the block rabbeting plane for shooting because of the opening in the side (which is designed to give you a clean corner in a rabbet), and while theoretically one could curve the front of the blade on a rabbet block plane, that pretty much rules out using the plane for the task for which it was designed.

Once again, you could get another blade to exchange out to restore it to its primary use, but in my opinion that's getting a bit too fancy - you'd be better off with the 60 series low angle block, a #3 smoother, and a small or medium shoulder plane. For now, until you get into hand-cutting moretise and tenon joints, the shoulder plane can wait.

[Danny Thompson]

This is an easy one.

If this will be your only plane for a while, then invest the extra $70. I love my 102, but it is not nearly as flexible a tool as the 60 1/2. With the adjustable mouth, you can take bigger gulps or very fine sips. The 102 is one size fits all.

I've seen some poor reviews of the 60 1/2R--excess chatter or something.

[Dan Sink]

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for all of the great input. A lot of knowledge and advice was shared and I really appreciate it.

[John Sanford]

I have a LA LN 60 1/2. Love. It. I also very much wish I had a standard block plane.

If I were going to buy only one, knowing what I know right now, I would simply throw reason to the wind and get the Veritas NX60.

Yup. Why? Because it's a plane I will likely never part with or replace. It would be a fantastic introduction into the world of handplanes. In fact, if I didn't already have a Low Angle block plane, I would have gotten the NX60. Much as I'd like one though, a standard angle block plane is going to be much more useful for me than a second low angle. If, however, anybody is willing to trade a Lie-Nielsen standard angle (60?) for a LA, PM me....

As for whether yo should go with the "larger" block plane, or the lit'l guys, I'm going to make a mostly uniformed vote for the larger. I've never had a case where I wished I had a smaller block plane, but I have set aside the LN and reached for a larger plane on occasion. However, I've also only done a few small pieces, most of my work has been furniture.

[Derek Cohen]

As my first project I'm building a simple box. It requires a block plane and its a good excuse to buy my first plane.

Hi Dan

Of the LN #102/103 and LA 60 1/2, my choice for you would be the #60 1/2.

I have both the #103 (my first LN plane several years ago) and the #60 1/2, and as much as I think that the #103 is one of a few planes I'd take to a desert island, I believe that you'd get more use out of a plane like the 60 1/2.

It is not just the wide blade. It is not just the adjustable mouth. It is that the #102/103 has a coffin shaped body, whereas the 60 1/2 has straight sides. Since you are going to making boxes, I do think that you should consider making a small shooting board. Of the above planes, the LA #60 1/2 is the best choice.

Now as much as I like the LN #60 1/2, I consider the Veritas DX60 block plane a superior design. It is the same size, costs the same, but has better ergonomics. Side-by-side you can tell this. Individually, these planes are both fantastic. You can't lose. But look into the Veritas - you won't regret it.

My review (that compares these planes in detail): http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...lockPlane.html



Regards from Perth

Derek

[Tom Henderson2]

Hi Dan-

You are smart to buy tools based on immediate needs. Your tool dollars will go a LOT further that way.

And as you have seen, you will get a lot of different opinions. Here's mine.

First, for a smallish box project, the smaller planes will be perfect. They are also cheaper, which is a definate plus.

One question.... do you have gear to sharpen the blade on that new plane? You will need it, and it isn't cheap. LN advertises their planes are "ready to use" right out of the box, but honestly you'll need to hone the blade or you'll be disappointed.

IF you need advice on sharpening gear, I'd suggest starting a new thread.

-TH

[David Tiell]

Dan,
I have the LN 102, 60 1/2, and the 60 1/2R. I love all three, but I really prefer the 102 for small simple jobs. However, I agree with Derek in that the 60 1/2 would be better for what you say you want to use it for. And for what it's worth, I like the 60 1/2R for tenon cheeks, but I'm not to thrilled with it as a regular block plane. I guess it's because of the higher side cheeks required by the rabbet blade openings, but it doesn't fit my hand nearly as well as the 102 or 60 1/2. It just feels a lot "bulkier".

Dave

[Dan Sink]

Hi Dan-

You are smart to buy tools based on immediate needs. Your tool dollars will go a LOT further that way.

And as you have seen, you will get a lot of different opinions. Here's mine.

First, for a smallish box project, the smaller planes will be perfect. They are also cheaper, which is a definate plus.

One question.... do you have gear to sharpen the blade on that new plane? You will need it, and it isn't cheap. LN advertises their planes are "ready to use" right out of the box, but honestly you'll need to hone the blade or you'll be disappointed.

IF you need advice on sharpening gear, I'd suggest starting a new thread.

-TH

I've gotten so much great advice, thanks to everyone.

Tom - I don't have sharpening gear yet. I was hoping to be able to use the plane out of the box to work on my present project. I'm going to sell a nice guitar that's been sitting in my closet for the last five years. I'm hoping to get enough to buy sharpening gear and nice chisels and partially fund a router with the proceeds (it should bring me $400-450). Perhaps its best to just wait on this project until I get the sharpening gear and chisels. I was planning to use some cheap chisels and sharpen with sandpaper for this project. I was hoping that would suffice.

[Dan Sink]

As my first project I'm building a simple box. It requires a block plane and its a good excuse to buy my first plane.

Hi Dan

Of the LN #102/103 and LA 60 1/2, my choice for you would be the #60 1/2.

I have both the #103 (my first LN plane several years ago) and the #60 1/2, and as much as I think that the #103 is one of a few planes I'd take to a desert island, I believe that you'd get more use out of a plane like the 60 1/2.

It is not just the wide blade. It is not just the adjustable mouth. It is that the #102/103 has a coffin shaped body, whereas the 60 1/2 has straight sides. Since you are going to making boxes, I do think that you should consider making a small shooting board. Of the above planes, the LA #60 1/2 is the best choice.

Now as much as I like the LN #60 1/2, I consider the Veritas DX60 block plane a superior design. It is the same size, costs the same, but has better ergonomics. Side-by-side you can tell this. Individually, these planes are both fantastic. You can't lose. But look into the Veritas - you won't regret it.

My review (that compares these planes in detail): http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRev...lockPlane.html



Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek - thanks for the great info. Nice article btw, great read. I have to admit that one reason I want to get an L-N versus a L-V is that the L-N is American made. Nothing against the Veritas or its country of origin (which I believe is Canada), but it seems like we actually manufacture very few products here in the states anymore and it was refreshing to me when I found out that a product I wanted was made by a company that has been able to make a quality product here in the states without sending its manufacturing overseas. I know that probably sounds silly, but having grown up in a blue collar town that's been devasted by the loss of manufacturing jobs, it just makes me feel good to buy a product made in Maine.

[John Schreiber]

. . . . I was planning to use some cheap chisels and sharpen with sandpaper for this project. I was hoping that would suffice.

I've been woodworking for years and I'm fairly serious about it. My chisels are Blue Chip like these. I'm still using sandpaper and I can get scary sharp enough to shave with.

Don't put off anything because you are waiting for fancy tools. Really high quality tools are wonderful. You couldn't take my 60 1/2 away from me, but you can do fine work with much less.

[Joel Goodman]

It's more important to get sharpening gear than the "best plane". You cannot take any plane out of the box and use it for a project without honing. Honing is part of woodworking. Either get waterstones or scary sharp (sandpapers), and a guide to get you started. Look up Derek's website "inthewoodshop" for a really cheap scary sharp setup if you're pinching pennies. Then either a LN LV or an old Stanley (pre ww2). Happy shavings.