Last word on Scroll Saws

[Corvin Alstot]

I have done some searching without resolution on which scroll saw to purchase. I would like to do some fairly detailed work (cutting out images one inch in size).<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>

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I am currently working on a project that requires a scroll saw. I intend to create a collection of gifts for Christmas, B-days, etc. I plan on creating a series of small wooden bookmarks with a small design cut into a stack of 1/16" x 1” x 7” wood blanks that total about 1” in thickness (12 -16 blanks in a stack). Because I am stacking the blanks I want to get a very precise cut that is near vertical.<o:p></o:p>

Is there a current view on which is the best scroll saw for this type work? Listed below are some comments I have found so far. Can anyone expand further on why or what to look for. I have read many advocates that prefer Dewalt, Eclipse, Hegner, RBI & Excalibur but without a detailed overview of why they are of higher quality, tolerances, finish, ease of use, etc (might be a good magazine article). Is this a personal decision or are there some compelling differences.<o:p></o:p>

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Any thoughts?<o:p></o:p>

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Tony Falotico<o:p></o:p>

Did extensive research on this subject a few years back, considered Hegner, RBI & Excalibur. Then the Dewalt hit the market, was the first on my block to get one, and haven't looked back since. Hegner, RBI & Excalibur are fine machines, but IMHO, the Dewalt can't be beat for the money.<o:p></o:p>

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Terry Quiram\<o:p></o:p>

You guys are right. Up until Ernie Mellon made the Eclipse, Hegner was the best on the market. I know because I owned two. The Eclipse is twice, if not more than the Hegner. Give Ernie a call he will tell you all about it. <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" /><st1:phone o_x003a_ls="trans" phonenumber="$6779$$$">804-779-2478</st1:phone><o:p></o:p>

[David Klink]

I've never used the brands you've mentioned, but in general, this is my opinion.

Some of the things you want to take into consideration are motor power, table size/shape/strength, clearance, noise level, stand availability, stability of stand, vibration, depth of stroke, ease of changing the blades and the blade holder itself.

Power can be an issue with a scrollsaw cutting thicker stock like any other saw. Some only run around 1.8 amps. At least 2 is better.

Some saws have a round table, some a "teardrop" or similiar shape. The more surface area the better, in my experience. Some tops are lighter weight, which you can feel when you work on them.

Depending on what kind of work you do, clearance can be an issue. I've made a lot of pieces that wouldn't clear on a 16", but I have no problem with them on my 20". If a piece doesn't clear, you have to stop and reposition the piece to continue. That doesn't sound like much to do, but scroll saws are similiar to band saws in that you can get some drift with the blade. You get used to feeding at a certain pressure or angle, then have to switch to a different angle. It can be a pain.

Scrollsaws don't actually make a lot of noise for the most part, but if you're standing there doing it for an hour or two straight, you'll notice it.

A stand is invaluable if it's available or included. You want one that preferably has a 3 legs rather than 4, because of the way the weight is distributed on a scroll saw. Most of it is in the middle of the tool, with some spread out over the front because of the table and the breadth of the base in front.(In general.) You also want one that's a comfortable working height. You can find yourself standing in basically one position, and you don't want to be bent over too much for too long. If the stand is set kind of high, sit on a stool that's a comfortable working height.

Vibrate. That's what these suckers do. There aren't a ton of scroll saws out there that can pass the nickel test, but if you find one, embrace it. They can be heavy machines, but if the stand isn't stable it'll bounce around like an over the hill hoochie dancer.

The higher the stroke depth, the more material the blade removes with each stroke. That's good, especially when you're working on thicker stock, not unlike a jigsaw.

Blade changing can be a pain with a scroll saw, so a tooless blade change is a plus. Changing those teeny blades with wrenches can be a chore. That carries over to the blade holder, which should hold the blade as vertical as possible. I had a Delta that, no matter how I tried, I couldn't get the blade at a 90 degree angle to the table.

Variable speed is a nice feature to have as well. Being able to dial the speed up or down to account for material density or thickness is a feature I wouldn't do without again.

If you're going gang cut very thin pieces like that, I would mill them a little thicker and use carpet tape or hot glue to hold the pieces together, then sand them down to finished thickness after cutting and removing the adhesive. I would also look into using a blade that prevents tearout, such as a crown or reverse tooth.

Blade tensioning, size and feed rate will also be a factor in how well your cuts go if you want them as vertical as possible. If your blade isn't tight enough, too fine, or you feed too fast, you're more likely to have drift in your cut, especially with thicker stock. If it's hardwood over 3/4" thick, you need to be studious in how you work your piece.

Many scrollsaws will do the job you're looking to accomplish, but familiarizing yourself with whichever one you choose is as important as anything else.

If it were me, I would go with the DeWalt based on reputation among people I've seen rave about them, reviews I've read, and value. For around $400 or so, it's a relative bargain.

Personally, I have a CMan 20" variable speed, and a Delta 16" variable speed. They're both excellent machines, although I like the blade changing on the Delta better. There's also a bit less vibration from the Delta, but it's a smaller machine with a less powerful motor.

[Phil Phelps]

.....in my business, and still cutting. If money is the problem, I think the DeWalt would do you fine. I don't think it will hold up commercially as well as the others mentioned. I have used the Excalibur and find it to be a super machine. I do some very intricate cutting, and I do stack my material. I cut aluminum, wood, plactic, mdf, etc.

[Terry Quiram]

I stand by my statement. Eclispe is the absolute best. With this saw there is no vibration. I can cut veneer and 2" stock.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachme...tid=2657&stc=1

Terry

[Rich Konopka]

Welcome to SMC Corvin !!


I recently purchased a Dewalt DW788LS scroll saw as a tool for my 12 year old duaghter to start out with in the shop. She assembled the saw and has been using since. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=10082
I have found the table to be nicely machined and flat. The variable speed control works well. The cost was $399 and has since gone up $20. As a hobbyist this machine will more than service my needs.


I spoke with a couple of people and researched the Dewalt and every bit was true. It runs very smooth, was easy to assemble, cuts well, and is easy to switch blades. I went with Dewalt because if there is an issue than I can get parts and the Factory service store is 2 miles from my home.

Good Luck and welcome to SMC !!

[Tony Falotico]

Tony Falotico Did extensive research on this subject a few years back, considered Hegner, RBI & Excalibur. Then the Dewalt hit the market, was the first on my block to get one, and haven't looked back since. Hegner, RBI & Excalibur are fine machines, but IMHO, the Dewalt can't be beat for the money.

For casual work on the scroll saw, I stand behind my statement. For extensive detailed work like your describing, I'm sure Dewalt will do the job, but you may want to consider one of the high end saws you listed.

Make sure you understand the difference between different types (not brands) of saws. The Parallel arm, parallel link, and C arm each work differently and have different characteristics. I would stay away from the C arm for intricate work. Check some WW magazines or your local library, there are many good books describing the differences.

It's your call, and depends on speed, convenience, comfort, how much you want to spend. I will tell you, I've had low end machines ( Dremel, C'Man 20" C arm) and hated working with them. If your spending a lot of time on the machine, make sure you get one that fits your needs and makes your work enjoyable. Nothing worst than creating a frustrating chore with the wrong machine. Unfortunately, this is somewhat like buying a pair of shoes, what is comfortable for me may not be for you.

[Kurt Aebi]

Another good machine is Delta's industrial version of the P-20. The major difference is the industrial version has oil-cups that are readily available and you do not need to remove the cover to do any rourine oiling.

Tony is giving you some very good advice as far as the style of machine as there is a difference in the "arc" of cut between the different styles and the results will be quite noticable when doing fine detail work. Determine what you are going to do with the saw and that will determine the type and level you will need. If you are going to do "casual" cutting, then DeWalt & Delta are good choices, if you are going to do extensive work (20+ hours/week), then the high end machines will serve you well.

Scrolling is like turing, once you do it, you are hooked! Good Luck and have fun!

[Dennis Peacock]

I stand by my statement. Eclispe is the absolute best. With this saw there is no vibration. I can cut veneer and 2" stock.

Terry

What Terry says is <b>Correct!!!!</b> I have played on Terry's Eclipse scrollsaw and that baby is swwwweeeeettt!!! I have an Excalibur 16" saw and it operates liks a kids tinker-toy compared to the Eclipse. The Eclipse is the next large tool of purchase on my list.

[Peter Kuhlman]

I have the Dewalt 788 and am always frustrated in using it. There are many who use this saw and make beautiful intricate stuff but to me there are way to many small issues - probably mostly my fault . I find that the saw has a relatively large arc to the blade motion and this causes the bottom of a thick piece or stack to not have the crisp corners that the top does. I have played with various blade adjustments and tried installing the blade in various positions in the holder to no improvement. This larger blade arc motion causes me another problem when doing spins as the blade while in motion is trying to go forward and back and this forces the wood to move in that motion while spinning it giving me slipped cuts in places I don't want. Another issue for me is that when doing inside cuts and having to reinstall the blade many times, the end of the blade gets bent in the holder making it almost impossible to feed through small drilled holes.

Now to be fair, these may all be overcome by experience but I sure am tired of fighting it. I am looking at either the Hegner due to it having an almost true vertical cut - supposedly the best of all the saws except the Eclipse - or the Eclipse which has an absolutely true vertical blade action. The Hegner does not seem to cause blade bends in the clamp so inside cuts should be far easier. I have tried most of the saws at shows - RBI, Hegner, Excaliber but not the Eclipse - and like the Hegner the best.
Pete in Louisiana

[Corvin Alstot]

Thanks for all the replys and thoughtful imput. Anyone near the Houston area with an Eclipse I could take a test drive. I will go look at the Dewalt at our local woodworking stores this weekend too. I will keep you posted and possible post a finished bookmark once I get a prototype mocked up.

Thanks again.