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Thread: coming soon G0661 review

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Southern Illinois
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    172

    just an update

    Still haven't built anything special, but I have used it a good bit more. It cuts well, and has plenty of power cutting walnut. That's about the hardest thing I have cut with it so far. Still haven't had time to finish my mobile base. I did get a digital camera the other day, will post some pics as soon as I clean up my shop. It's kind of embarrassing right now, total mess, got to move things just to use the saw.

    So many things to do this summer, no time for "fun" things. Got to get some time in the shop. Must go work on the house now.

    Later all,
    Jim

  2. Grizzly

    I'm looking forward to seeing the saw and appreciate your review. Even now there is next to no information online about this saw.

    My old [death trap] Trademan bit the dust a couple days ago while trying to finish a nestbox for the chicken coop and I'd told myself well before that if it died it'd be time to get a GOOD saw that will last me a lifetime.

    Cabinet saw is out of my price range, but this thing seems like the best of both worlds, looking more like a hybrid than a contractor saw so I'm hoping it will outlast me. If even a motor replacement here or there.

    Any more thoughts on it? Good things you really like? Things you're not too keen on?

    As with many, the unknown fence does still weight in my mind. Do you get any deflection if you push at the back with your thumb?

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Southern Illinois
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    Been a while since this post got any action.

    I picked up a camera over the weekend and plan on trying to post some pics later this week. Hopefully I don't kill myself trying to get around in my shop, what a mess.

    The fence that came with the saw has been sidelined for some time. I already had a Vega U50 before I ordered the G0661, and love it to much to give it up. The Vega made a $99 Walmart special bearable till the bearings went bad. Last time I used it I was afraid it would blow apart and launch the blade at me.

    Sorry I am babbling, back to the fence you asked about.

    I did check it out and use it a bit for review purposes. It performed pretty good after fixing the cursor screws. I did not detect any flex in it. I currently have it mounted on the backside of my extension table for use with the router table. The front rail for it was identical in size to the rear rail of the Vega, so it was an easy "mod". Now I just need to rig a face for it to use with the router table.

    My only irritation with this saw is the tilt lock is a separate little lever above the depth wheel, rather than a knob like the depth lock. Otherwise I love my G0661 and would not hesitate to buy it again.

    Well of to the shop to try to get some pics, maybe they will help explain what I mean about the locks.

    Jim

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Southern Illinois
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    172

    G0661 pics. (I hope)

    Well, here goes, I am going to try to post some pics of my G0661 from my new camera. Be patient, as the camera and posting pics are both new to me.

    The first pic is an overall, you can see my Vega on the front (hopefully) with the Wixey scale. On the back is the original Griz fence, or part of it anyway. I will be turning it into a router table fence sometime, if I get "some time". Also in the sometime category, my "cabinet" the saw is sitting on is a rough prototype of an idea for a mobile base. I don't trust locking wheels, so they retract when not in use, kinda. But that is another thread, when its (re) done.

    In the 2nd and 3rd pics, you see that little red lever right up under the table, that is the tilt lock lever. My only dislike about this saw so far. I wish it was a knob inside the hand wheel like the depth wheel has.

    The last pic shows the motor cover, thin somewhat flexible plastic, and a how far past the bottom of the saw it sits. Just wanted to point out that the motor does swing down a good bit on this side. If you are thinking of building a "cabinet" or something for it to go on this will have to be accommodated.

    Better post and start another, I dont know how big it will let me get.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by jim hedgpeth; 08-10-2009 at 8:26 PM. Reason: Pics got flipped when it posted?????? Exactly backward

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Southern Illinois
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    So when I posted the pics got moved around, but I'm referring to the right ones now. LOL, maybe, it flipped them again after I edited, lets see if this is right.

    Here is a few shots of the fence that came with it. Last pic shows the lock lever and "head" of the fence. You may have noticed the missing face on the fence, they are nice aluminum extrusions, I stole one for my miter gauge. The handle is large, rubberized and affords a very nice grip. Early this spring when it was cold out this handle was a lot nicer to touch than my Vega's (Brrrrr).



    First and second pic show the cursors, modified one last. I had to shave and file away the plastic ridges and eliminate the washers. The rails can only be mounted at one height as they are attached to the saw with countersunk machine screws, lock washers, and nuts. No adjustment there, not that it would make a difference, then the fence would be on the table. This was the only fix I could come up with, though changing the screws out may work if you had some with smaller heads and the same thread.


    Well that's all for now,

    Jim
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by jim hedgpeth; 08-10-2009 at 8:30 PM.

  6. #21
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    Nov 2008
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    Southern Illinois
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    Sorry about the order of the pics, but you get the idea. They seem to change order sometimes if I mess with those posts.

    Learning experience I guess. LOL.

    Jim

  7. Thanks for the amendment, Jim. Truly appreciate it.

    Also glad that you noted the motor hanging down, though should have expected that. Nice reminder that provisions need to be taken when building a base, which is planned once [if] I get this.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Southern Illinois
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    Yea, the motor swinging down caught me off guard. I was working on the base cabinet before I got this saw, but that's why I am using 1" ply scrap from work, it's free. Once I get it all worked out how I want it I'll remake it out of birch or maybe even oak ply and solid edging. Till then I can drill, saw,change, and redo without worrying what it looks like.

    Here's an idea to mull over. Air bag suspensions in some of those wacked out cars drop the car all the way on the frame when dumped.

    With a base around 27" deep, and say 60" long gives you over 1600 sq. in. under the saw cabinet. (not my dimensions but a guesstimate)
    Say the base is 2" thick all the way around, you still have well over 1200 sq. in. surface area under there.
    Find an "air bag" that fills that area it wouldn't take much pressure to lift it would it...........AAAHHHHHH, got you thinkin now, I can smell the braincells burning from here. LOL.

    If I ever get it done there will be a post, with pics and a rough how to.

    Later,
    Jim

  9. #24

    G0661 feedback

    Dear Jim,

    I am new on this forum.

    I am currently seriously considering G0661 over all other options for one single reason, this is the only saw that I see that offers 36" rip capacity in its native mode (I mean without optional fence). The only thing bothering me about the saw is 2 1/2" dust port. I would have expected standard 4" dust port like all the other Grizzley saws have. Also $944 (including $94 shipping) does seem little pricey but I am willing to pay for that kind of rip capacity and if the saw justifies it with the quality.

    The next option on my list is G0438RLX, but its rip capacity is only 30".

    The question I have for you is, now that you have this saw for so many months, how do you find the dust collection ? Have you connected the saw to a regular dust collector (instead of shop-vac) ? How much dust do you think still escapes and how much gets caught through the dust port ?

    Also, you said in one of your last posts that except the bevel locking inconvenience, you are extremely happy with the rest of the saw and will not hesisate to buy it again. Do you still have the same opinion after so many months ?

    Are you using the saw on 110V or 220V ? Would you recommend 220V for better performance or is 110 just as good. My house has 220V connection, but only one outlet in laundry room (for dryer). Which means I have to do separate wiring for 220V.

    Sorry to bother you, unfortunately you are the only owner I have found so far who has shared experience about this saw. I still haven't found any review from anyone else.

    Thanks
    Milind Patil

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
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    Southern Illinois
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    Sorry I have not updated lately, Soooooooo busy.

    I have used this saw now for a bit over a year, and would recommend it to whoever, great "little" saw. I still dont know how a "contractor" would like it, to heavy (300# or a bit more) to be taking in and out of a truck on a daily basis.

    I do not know off hand how it compares to others price wise now though.

    The tilt lock works fine, just was different than expected, and took a little getting used to for it to feel right. I do still wish it was a center knob like the height lock.

    Just a shop vac still, but dust collection does pretty good, provided............
    1) you remember to turn it on EVERY time you cut with it
    2) check filter in shop vac often, it can get partially plugged pretty fast
    I would guess ~ 85-90% of VISIBLE dust gets sucked up.

    If you skip even once turning it on.... it dont work very good next time until it clears itself.

    Also note.... I have a 20gal. 6hp shop vac, with a "custom" foam seal around the lid to help it suck more. It will pull the lid down far enough to discolor it around the center if I let it get stuck to a solid surface. I try to avoid that, cant be good for the motor.

    And on hooking it up, shop vac hose end (attachment end) has a little square-ish lock to hold the end on. If you have a spare hose, remove that plug, and hard plastic end piece. The hose then fits in a 2" rubber plumbing coupler (as mentioned before) and does not interfere with tilt operation. The hose does still rub the stand some, and may eventually wear through, but no pressure on it anymore.

    Fence deflection.... not bad that I noticed. I never realy measured deflection though. I would not see any real problem with using it though, after fixing the screws I mentioned before.

    It did not stay on mine very long, I already had a Vega that I love, so.................


    As far as power, I am running it on 110 for now, does good, but when you first start it the lights dim a little for a sec.

    Cutting power.... after my old saw, and dads old craftsman, wow....big improvement. My house is pushing 200 yrs old and we are doing a lot of remodeling. Most of the framing I have messed with so far is rough cut white oak, true 2x lumber. Cross cuts without effort, rips fine as long as I dont try to rush feed it, if I do it slows a little. That is partially because I use a combo blade. With a rip blade I dont think it would phase it.

    Also the blade supplied with mine is pretty decent. I dont know if they still ship with the same blade or not. If I ever get back to furniture work I will invest in a Wooodworker II though.

    Hope that helps.

    Got to go.

    Jim

    Oh... and it comes with a "near" zero clearance throat plate, the blade does not move sideways much as it tilts, unlike my old saw. And if you use a dado set, make your own throat plate, the supplied one is pretty open. Ok for large pieces that straddle the dado set, but if its close to an end it can suck it down in the hole enough to bite and launch it. Trust me, I found out.

    Jim
    Last edited by jim hedgpeth; 02-24-2010 at 1:22 PM.

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim hedgpeth View Post
    2) check filter in shop vac often, it can get partially plugged pretty fast


    Jim

    Get yourself a dust deputy!

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Van Huskey View Post
    Get yourself a dust deputy!
    I have the G0661 and a Dust Deputy. If you only have a shop vac (like me) the DD is indispensable.

    The screw problem Jim mentions on the G0661 is now fixed (I bought mine several months after he did; probably benefitted from his contact with Grizzly.) I love the saw. My lights go dim when I turn it on, too. Could be because I am in a garage with inadequate circuits. I ran the nickel test and it was smooth running. Easy to assemble. You might consider tailgate service. I lucked out and the UPS driver helped me get it in the garage.

    I did have a little problem getting the hose hooked up to the dust port. Maybe it was just me. I finally found a plastic fitting (don't ask me where, I tried so many things) that would go inside the dust port and stay and then bought an extra vac hose at HD and put it on and left it. When I need it, roll my vac/DD up, take the hose off the DD and use the one permanently attached to the saw. I do this because the dust port is not easily accessible for taking the hose on and off.

    Check this thread for a vertical cart I made for the dd and vac.
    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=126514
    Last edited by Jim Rimmer; 02-24-2010 at 9:38 PM.

  13. #28
    Thanks very much Jim. That was very helpful.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by Milind Patil View Post
    ....I am currently seriously considering G0661 over all other options for one single reason, this is the only saw that I see that offers 36" rip capacity in its native mode (I mean without optional fence)....

    Milind - With left tilt saws there's rarely a need for any rip capacity to the left side of the blade, so it's often possible to easily slide the front fence tube over to the right by several inches. I've slid my last two fences over by 10", to give respective rip capacities of 40" and 36" (Craftsman 22124 and Shop Fox W1677). In both cases, I left the front angle bracket in place and simply unbolted the front rail tube, slid the distance of one bolt hole to the right (~10"), and rebolted the tube to the angle with one less bolt...there's still 3 or 4 bolts holding the tube, which is plenty strong. You need to relocate or replace the measuring tape on the rail, and recalibrate the cursor. It's usually a fairly straight forward 10 minute task, but depending on the fence design, sometimes you'll need to make an extension table to fill the space between the front and back rails. Food for thought so you're choices aren't as limited.

    Jim - Thanks for the detailed report and pics. Congrats on the new saw!
    Last edited by scott spencer; 02-25-2010 at 8:56 AM.
    Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim hedgpeth View Post
    Talked to Griz. about motor, they said it is equiped w/ a clutch of some sort. When shut down this disengages and will create drag. Seems to me like it would elim. motor drag from blade, alowing it to spin more freely, not slow it. They know more about that than I do though, so I'll take their word for it.
    .
    I'm interested if anyone has info on this response. I'm curious because I recently purchased an 8" Griz jointer and it exhibits the same slow down. I originally though it was just the start cap throw-out switch but the drag seems much more than that switch should make.

    Mike

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