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Thread: #3 Stanley/Bailey done (almost)

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Winnipeg Manitoba Canada
    Posts
    276

    #3 Stanley/Bailey done (almost)

    Here is my Stanley #3.
    I did a rust removal with citric acid and cleaned things up, lots of paint on it.
    The tote was broken and had a thick layer of tape glue on it, I guess to hold it together.
    I sanded, glued and finished with Tru oil. When sanded the tote was quite light but as soon as the finish was on it got really dark, must be the nature of the wood I guess. Being dark you can not see the glue line.
    The blade is rounded and I have not got it all squared up, so no shavings yet. It was a fun project and I am looking forward to having a few swipes at a oak board with it. Thanks to the Neanders for all the tune up tips.
    Cheers Ron.
    P1013300.jpg

    P1013299.jpg
    Last edited by Ron Petley; 01-26-2009 at 3:02 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Waco, Texas
    Posts
    261
    Very nice... I'm just starting a collection of planes and I need to start refurbing them. Would you mind giving a little more detail on your rust removal process? I started with electrolysis and that works, but the metal rusts within minutes of removing it from the bath, although a light coating of rust, it's a little frustrating...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Longview WA
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    Ron,
    Nice looking #3.

    I started with electrolysis and that works, but the metal rusts within minutes of removing it from the bath, although a light coating of rust, it's a little frustrating...
    I had the same problem with citric acid, but it came off with a little steel wool. The metal may be starved for ionic love after removing the rust. When it comes out of the bath, the best thing to do may be to wipe it dry then give it a treatment with an oily cloth. The worst thing to do is to put it in the oven to dry it.

    I have given some thought of trying some gun blue on the sides, but every time a plane is done, the blueing is nowhere to be found and when I know where the blueing is, there aren't any planes ready to put it on.

    jtk

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Waco, Texas
    Posts
    261
    I hate to hijack the thread, but I have another question as well about refubishing the planes - some of the lever caps are nickel plated. On those, do you guys just end up polishing all of this off if it's in fairly bad shape as it is? Sorry, if I should start a new thread, let me know.

    Nice looking plane, again. I hope I can get mine to that condition ASAP!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Winnipeg Manitoba Canada
    Posts
    276
    The citric acid removes the stuff, I was told vinegar does the same only slower. Once done it has a greyish coating on it I wiped off with some steel wool, but it got on my fingers and turned my fingers black, so wear some gloves. i guess this layer of gray keeps it from rusting, but a wipe with the oily rag like Jim mentioned is a good idea. I soaked all the parts and it cleaned the brass "wheel" as well. It took about 3 days to soak all the rust and paint off, I had to scrape some of the paint off but it was softened up. It also has worked well on the leaver cap with the plating, which this one did not have.
    It is not the best, but the best I have found so far.
    I did not want to sand it with sandpaper because it leaves those sanding marks.
    I bought the citric acid as a health food store that also sells spices and it was in the bulk spice section, go figure.
    Cheers Ron.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Winnipeg Manitoba Canada
    Posts
    276
    Here is a link to the thread with the before photo.
    Cheers Ron.


    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=101345

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