To finish workshop/garage or not?

[Sonny Edmonds]

My preference is to not "finish" the inside of a shop.
But I live in a very moderate climate. I also usually open the 16' door on my shop when I'm in it, rain or shine.
My "new" shop has finished walls by others before me, but the ceiling is wide open and I liked that fine. Let me run a host of auxiliaries up there, air lines, electric, lighting, even my vacuum chucking for my lathes is tucked away up high out of the way. (Vacuum pump, tank)
And of course the shop Vacuum system, and dust collection runs.
I have a ventilator up near the peak to draw out heat and dust not caught in the systems.

But if you plan on heating, or even air conditioning, your shop, you need to insulate it and close it up. Not so much the big door, just insulate it well.
Dry wall is an excellent sound deadening medium. It's relatively cheap, and it can be covered with OSB or plywood for hanging stuff on, or general protection.
I made it clear that I had to have a shop, and an office room, for my junk. She has made sure to heed my wishes. She won't even let people bother me in my shop. She comes and waits until I recognize she is there, stop what I am doing and can hear her.
So I don't have a garage. I have a shop in what Realtor's call a garage. Half finished.

You'll have to do yours the way you want it. But I fully understand about the open walls and the space available there.
If you run your shop electrical system surface mounted, it can move (if ever) with the shop. One friend of mine had moved 3 times and his shop electrical system moved with the shop. Sub panel and all.

[Dave Lehnert]

As far as heat. I just purchased this 220 volt electric heater for my one stall garage. I have yet to receive it. Will let the group know how it works. May want to look into something like this. I ran a line from the box and it was not to hard to do at all.
They have free shipping right now. Code 117231

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...t_6970_595_595

[Dave Potter]

John:

Hello and welcome!

I agree with insulating it and finishing off with OSB or even hardboard. You could install "half" a French cleat system at three or four points around the walls, then you'd have them at the ready if and when you wanted to install shelving or mount equipment.

As to heating the space, I'd stay away from "tapping" into the house's system. Too many rules against that sort of thing, including having to restore the integrity of the ventilation system should you ever need/want to sell the home. Instead, look into an other heating method for the are, keeping an eye on local codes and covenants.

Good Luck!

DAVE Potter

[Rob Russell]

First, the furnace duct to the garage is against code.

Why do you say that? What code are you referencing?

If it's a forced air system, there would likely be no return from the garage - it would be considered "lost air". If there were a return from the garage, I would agree with that loop being a problem.

[Myk Rian]

Why do you say that? What code are you referencing?

If it's a forced air system, there would likely be no return from the garage - it would be considered "lost air". If there were a return from the garage, I would agree with that loop being a problem.

Fire! Garages are known to have flammable liquids, materials, hot engine exhausts, etc. Any duct connection to the house is a danger. Go check your local codes, or ask your fire department.

[Joel Earl]

I'm in north too - salt has not caused me an issue except on the floors where my epoxy is peeling up after 4 years. Salt and car = trouble. Salt substitute they now use = disaster.
Finished walls w/ sheetrock - hate to tape so what I did was insulate well between studs, ran poly and stapled, ran another layer and overlapped first. Up with the sheetrock and done.
All well mostly - wind chill has been -45 to -60 lately and temps way below zero and I do sometimes feel a slight draft on floor---- maybe the service door and garage door more than walls?
45K Reznor and I get from the 48 degrees where I keep it usually up to 68-70 where I want it when I'm working in 20 minutes or less. IMO __ Not bad at all. Hotter and I'd roast - much less and I'd complain too.
I still have the floor marks where I'd referenced the studs in case I ever taped but this works so well I won't now. I did roll some paint on - lighter is a good thing.
Ceiling - did the same and blew in insulation 6-7" up.
Gas bill since I added heat does run me maybe $75 a month but only for 5 months or so. Small price to pay for not freezing my rear off
Never had an issue with surfacerust yet on tools - I do keep them clean and wax 3-4 times a year. That be it.

Oh - French cleats on 3 walls. Man I love the flexability they give you!

[David G Baker]

The salt issue and warm garage was something that was drilled into me as a youth (that was a while ago) back when vehicles dissolved into rust buckets after a few years so my information may be out of date for the newer vehicles.

[Joel Earl]

I grew up with the same info David and make no doubt I believe it was true in the past. I had so many vehicles that would start to rust even if only 2-3 years old. Heck - they'd rust away long before they had 50K on them. They doing something right now.

If they'd drop the prices to the '60s range I might even replace all 4 I got.

[Myk Rian]

Why do you say that? What code are you referencing?

If it's a forced air system, there would likely be no return from the garage - it would be considered "lost air". If there were a return from the garage, I would agree with that loop being a problem.

IRC R309.1.1 Duct penetration. Ducts in the garage and ducts penetrating the walls or ceilings separating the dwelling from the garage shall be constructed of a minimum No. 26 gage sheet steel or other approved material and shall have no openings into the garage.

[John Pariseau]

I will post photos when I go ahead with this project... the garage needs some cleaning up before I post .

As for some of the questions...

- It must remain a garage, so both doors must stay
- I'll have to look into other options of heating, though will check into what code specifically says. I've thought about the hanging gas or electric heaters, but I have to imagine they present the same problems if the space is still used as a garage part of the time.
- I think the choice will be OSB with some sort of pegboard or other system on top. If I can find a good deal, I might use Whirlpools Gladiator system, though it is a bit pricey.
- Yes, there is drywall on the house side, and the ceiling.

It was 11ish out today, and the garage was 30.

Thanks for the ideas! Now I just have to price everything out, and make a decision.

[Myk Rian]

John;
Since answering your question with a reference to Residential code 309.1.1, I did some additional searching on the subject. I was led to a forum where members are the actual building code inspectors. They provided me with some additional, important information.

#1 on that list was "Check with your local building department". Even though R309.1.1 is an international building code adopted in the US, there is always the possibility that your local code may be different, or non-existent.

#2 "Check with your insurance carrier", for obvious reasons.

Those persons also mentioned that approved fire dampers in the supply and return ducts may be accepted where the walls are penetrated. Again, local codes prevail.

Now, there is another matter. That is one they called the "Energy codes", and pertains to insulation, and other matters. Those codes are, according to them, a bit tougher than building codes. Again, ask at your local building department.

[John Pariseau]

John;
Since answering your question with a reference to Residential code 309.1.1, I did some additional searching on the subject. I was led to a forum where members are the actual building code inspectors. They provided me with some additional, important information.

#1 on that list was "Check with your local building department". Even though R309.1.1 is an international building code adopted in the US, there is always the possibility that your local code may be different, or non-existent.

#2 "Check with your insurance carrier", for obvious reasons.

Those persons also mentioned that approved fire dampers in the supply and return ducts may be accepted where the walls are penetrated. Again, local codes prevail.

Now, there is another matter. That is one they called the "Energy codes", and pertains to insulation, and other matters. Those codes are, according to them, a bit tougher than building codes. Again, ask at your local building department.

Thanks! Will look into this. The house was built in the 80's, so I'm sure codes have changed since then (assuming the inspector was good inspector, and caught any violations).