GRR-Ripper

[richard poitras]

plus 1 for me

[Mike Hedges]

I have two and use them all the time . Would not do without them .

[Tim Boger]

Thanks to everyone that took the time to share their opinions on the GRR-Ripper, I'm feeling pretty good about getting one or two and to start working safer.

Anyone wanting to sell theirs feel free to PM me.

Tim

[Carl Babel]

Have one, use it often, love it.

[James Bosley]

I bought two at last year's WWing show. My son is now a big believer...He wanted to make a block puzzle for his cousin. The pieces are small. After cutting the small pieces with the Gripper he came to a large cut and asked if he could cut it as he had done in woodshop. Standing clear of the cut, thankfully he learned something in school, he experienced kickback personally for the first time. The wall took the hit. Cheap lesson. The Grippers are SOP at the table saw here.

[Lori Kleinberg]

Started with 1 grr-ripper and now I have 2. They are great. I use mostly with tablesaw, but have also used one on the router table. I find any additional time for setting then up helps me go over in my mind the cut I am about to make. This in turn makes me much more comfortable.

[Dewey Torres]

Started with 1 grr-ripper and now I have 2. They are great. I use mostly with tablesaw, but have also used one on the router table. I find any additional time for setting then up helps me go over in my mind the cut I am about to make. This in turn makes me much more comfortable.

Lori very good point... I do that was well and didn't even realize it until I read your post

[Tom Reitz]

I’m 61 and learned how to use my Dad’s table saw when I was about 10. My Dad was a Carpenter/Cabinetmaker. He never used a guard because he said you have to see the blade. 2 days ago I had kickback for the first time. Fortunately I was wearing a leather shop apron. I twisted as it hit me and the apron helped it “slide” off me instead of puncture. It felt like I got hit by a ¾ 8”x12” going 100mph. For the past two days I’ve been looking at how to best prevent kickback. It could’ve/should’ve taken at least two digits. Maybe three. I’m looking at the Grr-ripper. Any other suggestions?

[Prashun Patel]

Does your table saw have a Riving knife? That's the number one way to do it, IMHO if you don't use a guard.

[Daniel Dioguardi]

Tom - I purchased a Grr-ipper a few months ago after 25 years of homemade push blocks/sticks.. forced myself to use it at first, but now I absolutely love it and got a second one just recently. I think they are worth it - highly recommend

[Frank Pratt]

#1 would be to put the splitter or riving knife back on the saw.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, if you have to remove the blade guard or the splitter to use them, they're a safety hazard.

A proper guard and riving knife/splitter are required to prevent kickback.

Kickback is caused by the workpiece touching the top or rear of the saw blade, a splitter/riving knife and a crown guard prevent that.

If you're removing your guard there are only 2 possible scenarios

1) you're using the wrong machine for the operation

2) you're using the wrong guard for the operation.

I have 3 different blade guards for my saw, an overam guard, a splitter mounted crown guard and a bridge guard.

Regards, Rod.

[Brian Tymchak]

Does your table saw have a Riving knife? That's the number one way to do it, IMHO if you don't use a guard.

+1. If you don't have a riving knife or splitter, MicroJig sells a splitter that can be installed into the insert. I use that and the grippers. Both highly recommended.

[Osvaldo Cristo]

[...]

I'd also appreciate advise / opinions regarding this issue.

Thanks,
Tim

I like the idea of the tools but it is appropriated to use with saw and riving knife only, so it is a no-no for me as I insist to use also both the blade guard and anti-kick back paws for any cut-thru operation. Including my cross cut jig allows to use it with the guard and paws.

On the other hand, as you also wrote, there a number of people that love them... perhaps it can be your case!

[glenn bradley]

I’m 61 and learned how to use my Dad’s table saw when I was about 10. My Dad was a Carpenter/Cabinetmaker. He never used a guard because he said you have to see the blade. 2 days ago I had kickback for the first time. Fortunately I was wearing a leather shop apron. I twisted as it hit me and the apron helped it “slide” off me instead of puncture. It felt like I got hit by a ¾ 8”x12” going 100mph. For the past two days I’ve been looking at how to best prevent kickback. It could’ve/should’ve taken at least two digits. Maybe three. I’m looking at the Grr-ripper. Any other suggestions?

A splitter or riving knife is your best protection against kickback. Even if your technique is correct, kickback can occur from stress releases in the material. A splitter / RK is the answer for this. They also protect against poor setup (featherboards) or technique where the material is allowed to contact the blade behind the arbor.

As to needing to see the blade, no offense to anyone but . . . the blade on a tablesaw does not move other than spinning. It is always right where it always is . . . as are the fence and other elements of the saw. You only guide material straight through a tablesaw cut. Trying to feed material other than in a straight path is asking for kickback. The blade isn't going to jump into your path. Plan your cut, use accessories if appropriate and move the material in a straight, consistent-speed path through the entire cut. If your cut starts going wrong, STOP, Power Down, fallback and correct the problem.

Let's be safe and have fun out there.