Stair resurfacing project – looking for advise/suggestions

[Benjimin Young]

Hi Richard, just a quick update on my stair project. I finally got the paint off, have milled all the wood into suitable treads (opted for 2” slices, rotated 90 degrees and glue-up method which is looking real nice) and am now rough cutting them to size. I thought you might get a chuckle out of how long this “small” stair project is taking this amateur. But, I am learning a lot and having fun. Thanks for the great advise and I will post pictures when I get it done.

It seems like you have this project well figured out. Resurfacing stairs is a problem because of the first and last step rise change, but in your case it seems like it will be an improvement. I recommend using plenty of construction adhesive, like PL Subfloor. Don't be over concerned about the expansion and contraction, your new tread covers should move with your old treads. My only real concern is that the bullnose will be your weakest link in the stairs and prone to cracking off under load of people walking on the front of each tread. You must make sure that you support the bullnose with the riser under it and also use cove molding under the tread bullnose which will help to support this weak transisition.
You will have to clean the paint off the treads to insure good glue contact.
If you need any help, just ask.

Richard

[Richard Wolf]

Keep at it, you will get it done. Often working on your own projects takes a lot longer than when you are getting paid.
I am still working on my staircase in my house, and I have lived here for 12 years, don't ask. It's the old shoemakers story.

Richard

[Neal Clayton]

I have a similar project with brick stairs going to basment (1809 home). The treads are too narrow... around 8". While finishing the basement I took a spill with a 4x8 of drywall in my hand.. not pretty.
I want extend the treads to 10" or 10 1/2". I really want to go 11 but also don't want too much overhang (weak). I was thinking oak plywood with a 3/4" bullnose solid oak edge. Wife wants to keep the brick risers in the back so I can't come out too far otherwise I'd make oak risers also. Thought ply would be stronger since I"m hanging over 1 1/2" to 2" inches.
For securing htem down I was thinking PL400 with tapcons and then oak plugs over the screws. any other thoughts on securing?
good info already here.. any thoughts on this one?
Bejinmin I hope you dont' mind me piggybacking on your post
Mark.

in addition, you have moisture issues to deal with whenever you place wood on top of masonry, especially going down into a basement.

google "rising damp" you'll turn up plenty of info.

[Benjimin Young]

Richard or anyone?

I finally have the steps milled and just finised routing the 1/2" R (1 " D) bullnose on the tread "caps" using my router table, except for one. The last one has a curve at one end and that is my problem. My bit does not have a bearing and I do not have a guide that would fit a bit this big. How do I bullnose the curved section?

[Richard Wolf]

I hate to give you the answer you don't want to hear, but go buy a router bit with a bearing. I use a 9/16" R, and hold it under the base plate a little.

Richard

[Benjimin Young]

Stair resurfacing project is finally completed.
Now it really did not take 8+ years of effort, I had to shelve the project for a while to work on other high priority house projects, but it's done now. Thanks for all the advise, special thanks to Richard !!h
Here is a story board of pictures. Enjoy.


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[Bill Graham]

That's a very nice job, they look great!

Thanks for the update.

Best,
BG

[Victor Robinson]

Wow, what a great job, and such a timely bump for me as I'm starting exactly the same kind of project (actually still in the debating stages of saving vs replacing). Your success suggests it may just be worth the effort of cutting off the bullnoses and refacing.

[Jim Dwight]

I think they look great too!

For anybody considering this project, I will add that I did it once with thin, 3/8 thick, flooring + a 1 inch nosing piece. The softwood treads were covered with the flooring (glued and nailed down) and the nosing added. It was held in place with construction adhesive, 3 large finish nails, and the cove molding underneath. None came loose. The joints in the flooring were clearly visible but the hallway the stairs ended at was finished in the same flooring so it fit in.