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i tend to use the wide belt to get stuff that thin, but if you are going to use the planer, consider doing what michael fortune does. he makes a sled with stops on the front and back to "spring" the...

oh, of course - for the overlay doors, this is correct, it doesn't matter how thick the door is. the inset is a different story.

for the overlay application, you might be able to use the zero protrusions:
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they are rated to 1 1/4" thick.

blum blumotion clip top hinges for thick doors:
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this approach would be my very first choice. my wife desperately wants it. but, we live in a log home, and there's exactly no way to header it off. unfortunately this type of system is out of the...

maurice thanks for this. i'm fine buying units, but i am having trouble finding them in all wood, and specifically in clear cedar or redwood. so, my thought is to build it. it's still a discussion...

we feel sliders are more appropriate for our house, and easier with the dogs.

sure. i can pretty much do whatever i want. my house is a log home, so the scale is pretty big, and 4 1/2" stiles (+) would be fine...

i'm seriously considering building new wood patio doors for my house. the wood and glass portions (and weather stripping) i feel quite comfortable with, but the hardware portion concerns me. does...

i don't know what you're building, but can you do it with veneer? i have a full flitch of outstanding curly walnut, i think i paid $7 a foot for it many years ago. Certainly Wood's website shows a...

the architect came back and wants only 1/2" visible on the face. my gut feel is to do a cutter approximating this - again, i really want to cut the intersection of the frame and the panel so that...

the architect came back calling for a mitered corner. so i'm proceeding that way, but i'm going to do a slightly more complex profile. 1" x 1" frame, but i'm going to do a groove profile, and run a...

absolutely agree. we'll see what the architect says.

so... regular cabinet cope and stick doors have the stiles running long... that's not offensive, but it would be in a micro-shaker configuration? i don't know that i have a strong opinion on this,...

yeah it's a strange situation. very large project, big money on the line, and the competitor we are up against seemingly specified "cope and stick." i think that the architect might actually not...

i wouldn't consider doing a cope and stick with a floating panel - it would still rely on a full thickness panel, flush on the back, to use standard euro hardware. the only difference would be the...

oh absolutely - it's entirely design specific. i change it up all the time depending on what i'm making. typically the outside stiles run long, especially if they meet a corner at a miter, and the...

kevin, sorry, you're right, that was pretty vague. let me clarify:

1) is there precedence in industry, or design, for a cope and stick micro shaker, where the stiles run long and the rails meet...

has anyone done a cope and stick micro/skinny shaker setup, or is the consensus that it's always a miter wrap? i talked to Great Lakes a while back, and they hadn't seen it (or at least my rep...

it's been a while, but they were pretty expensive to sharpen. i have 610mm knives, and four of them were well over $100, if i'm not mistaken.

i "send them in" which in my case means driving them to kyocera, walking in the front door, and shaking the hand of the guy who does the sharpening.

i've sharpened my carbide tersas three times. probably unnecessarily. they are "dull" now and cutting great.

i run tersas on my SCM planer, and martin jointer. HSS on the jointer, and carbide on the planer. in my view, nothing cuts better than fresh, sharp HSS tersa knives, but they dull rather quickly. ...

i have a 4-wheel feeder on my shaper, with split wheels. despite the gap between the wheels, i like this configuration because i can "cradle" the cutter between the wheels. short pieces are really...