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Thanks all. I got the chuck off using an impact driver with a hex bit in the jaws and a screwdriver on the motor shaft. I couldn’t get the threaded spacer off, so I just cut down my mortising bit....

Thanks Bill, I’ll give that a shot.

I have a Delta 14-650 hollow chisel mortiser that has quite a bit of runout in the jaws (i.e., using different bits to measure it), but nearly none in the shaft or chuck body. I’d like to remove it...

Good point!

Jamie, for what it’s worth, the Leigh jig has one of the adjustable bushings that “should” eliminate the offset issue.

I am considering a through-dovetail jig and noticed the Leigh looks just like the Keller but has the snails shell adjustment on the wood block and a variable bushing rather than the bearing guided...

This makes a lot of sense, since I can’t imagine how the tooth spacing could be so different from overzealous sharpening. Thanks, I’ll check out the site.

It does have the “5 1/2” stamp on the heel. I’m just not sure how a different number of teeth per inch could be filed into it without removing a substantial amount of material.

I have a D-12 Lightweight 5.5 psi rip saw from the late 40s early 50s that has a weird tooth issue. 95% of the plate has properly-spaced teeth, but the front 10% (by the toe) is about 8 ppi. I can't...

It's a 608Z, which is a 22mm OD, 8mm ID, 7mm tall shielded bearing. Bill, you are right on the math. I'd need a 28mm replacement.

Thank you everyone!

I have a 1/4" shank Rockler three wing slot cutting bit that cuts a 1/2" deep with the 7/8" bearing that came with it. Does anyone know offhand what size bearing it takes and whether the bearing can...

Derek, that is fantastic info--thanks!

I get dovetails on the flush end, but what about the inside joint that doesn't meet flush with the end of the drawer face? I'd imagine some sort of sliding dovetail maybe?

I like it, thanks Steve!

I am building a curved front makeup table for my wife that will have a concave front with three drawers. I’m looking for ideas on how to join the drawer fronts to the drawer boxes, especially on the...

It looks like Unibond needs a warm shop, and that's not really feasible for me. The West Systems epoxy product looks like it would work fine - and have a nice working time - in my shop.

I like the stapler idea; haven’t read that one before.

Thanks all for the advice (so far)!

I'm planning on building a small concave front desk and will be laminating 5-6 plies of 3mm/1/8" baltic birch plywood on a curved form (and then veneering over the faces and using 1/4" solid wood on...

I am in the market for another Japanese plane. I have one of the $50 Woodcraft 50mm Kanna smoothing planes, and really like it. I’m thinking about getting a couple planes more over time, and am...

This is probably an odd statement, but I have some elbow joint pain from time to time, and switching from a push stroke with a western plane to a pull stroke with an eastern plane really helps.

Yes, sorry for not including it! It's a good read.

I went with the Woodcraft Kanehide plane which was cheap ($50) and used the book "Japanese Woodworking Tools" to learn how to properly set it up. It didn't take long to sharpen and set up, and I...

I built a Wood Magazine cyclone years ago using a Penn State DC-3 850cfm blower and 4” PVC pipe for a small garage shop. I recently moved and changed out the PVC to 6” metal ducting. It works ok, but...